HOODELL C1U-K82 C1U-K54A Carburetor, for Mantis Tiller 7222 7222M 7225 7920, Echo TC-210 HC-1500, Premium Cultivator Carb, Plus Rebuild Kit Primer Bulb Fuel Line and More
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There are several options available. Simply type "Replacement Carburator for Mantis 7222" into your browser to get started. Don't be concerned about the last four digits. This carburetor has been around for a long time and can be found on a variety of two-cycle engines. If you order from Amazon, the most important decision you'll have to make is which kit to get.
China is most likely the culprit. I bought two of them for two different mantis rollers, and they both worked perfectly. Both of them got off to a good start and kept going. They're used in raised bed garden boxes by myself and my daughter.
No video. But I'm at a loss for words. I changed the hoses, fuel filter, air filter, and carb (along with some new gas). It only ran for a short time, then would not start when I tried to adjust it.br>Put the other carb on and it fired right up with no adjustments. I've had the tiller for about five days and it's always started without priming.
Selected User Reviews For HOODELL C1U-K82 C1U-K54A Carburetor, for Mantis Tiller 7222 7222M 7225 7920, Echo TC-210 HC-1500, Premium Cultivator Carb, Plus Rebuild Kit Primer Bulb Fuel Line and More
Over the years, I've probably installed 30 Mantis carbs. At the very least, that's how many Sthil carbs there are. There have never been any issues with any of the installations. This is a unique situation. The passage plug that allows the tubes to exit the tank is so tight that it creates a pucker point, causing fuel to leak from that twist point. I worked for 45 minutes to find a solution to the problem. It started leaking out of the take breather tube and past the end filter after I fixed the leak at the passage grommet. That's been given a new spin. Now the owner can't lay the tiller down because the breather tube won't let him. It must be kept perfectly upright at all times. I replaced the used filter and it appears to be working properly; however, if I am called to repair another tiller, I will avoid this supplier. My time is more valuable than any savings I might make dealing with this simple installation.
It was well worth the money for what was in the box, but because the carburetor was the only thing I needed, the rest of the order was essentially useless. I've been working on small engines for over 35 years and am very familiar with carburetors. First and foremost, the primary jet was so badly bottomed out that I had to use pliers to free it. driver for the sole purpose of releasing it. When I first started it, it would run so rich that it would die as soon as I let go of the throttle. The main nozzle was obviously leaking, or the metering arm was set too high. After some time, I was able to get the machine to run long enough for my 15-minute job to be completed. This carb would have ended up in the recycle bin if it had been a customer's machine. The fuel lines and grommet were fine, but the vent leaked, so I had to revert to my old one. Prepare to be disappointed if you aren't a mechanic.
Everything fit perfectly on the Mantis tiller, which I liked. It took about 30 minutes for me to complete the installation; The most difficult part was re-enacting the scene. In the fuel tank, install the grommet and hoses. To match the way the old hoses were installed, I needed to shorten both the vent and purge tubes. It's a bit of a squeeze, but that's how it should be. After priming and a few jerks on the starter cord with the choke on, it started right up for a second. Then I opened the choke, and it ran the next jerk of cord, as if the H and L mixture screws were exactly where they should have been. Just as Mantis recommends in the owner's manual for getting one going. br>One piece of advice (and this goes for all small engines I've owned over the years) - Most engine starting issues are caused by old, stale fuel. Always drain the gas tank (or install a cutoff valve in the fuel line - see below) before using it. on larger riding mowers, etc. ) and run the engine until it runs out of gas. Gasoline contains additives that allow it to function properly, but these additives evaporate after a month or so, and the gas that remains deposits gunk in the carb's small passages. I always use a fuel stabilizer in every gas can I refill, and it appears to help if you use one that neutralizes ethanol. Ethanol (also known as ethyl alcohol) is a type of alcohol that comes from the fermentation of corn. It absorbs water well and acts as a solvent, but it can damage rubber and plastic parts in carburetors and fuel lines. This was the issue with my old carb after I dismantled it - Broken diaphrams, as well as the purge bulb. A few small ports had also become clogged.
This Mantis tiller was passed down to me from my father. I'm guessing I'm around 20 years old. The carburetor, however, did not fare well during the previous winter. I placed an order for this replacement. br>br>It appeared to be a good idea. The installation went smoothly. The bulb, on the other hand, does not receive any fuel. I'm having trouble priming the engine. br>br>I contacted the company in the hopes of receiving a quick fix or an exchange. They offered to give me a half-refund! Put that to the side! Next time, send me a working product, and I'll buy from a different seller.
All of the components were installed and the system was up and running in no time. It ran for about 15 minutes before I stopped it to get a screwdriver to adjust it, and now it won't start. I've checked everything I can think of, and it's got to be the carburetor. This carb in this kit has to be a dud. I'm not sure if it can be returned or exchanged because it's already been installed. br>br>PS I had ordered a second kit (of a different brand, Ginode) as a backup. It started right away after I replaced the carburetor. As a result, it's safe to assume that you're eating a bad carb.
Delivery was very quick. I have a Mantis who has been having problems for a few years. Husband placed the order, and after receiving it, he spent a few minutes putting it together, and it now runs like new. good kit!.
This carburetor got a long, silent Mantis tiller started. However, because the mixture screws were not properly adjusted when it arrived, the engine did not run smoothly until I fine-tuned the adjustment. "Lightly turn each screw clockwise until it is completely closed," according to the Mantis manual. then slowly turn each screw counterclockwise, one full turn plus a quarter turn, more or less. " It's critical not to overtighten these adjuster screws; instead, get them to a point where you can feel the closing contact. br>br>The main issue with small engines, particularly one-cylinder engines, is that they are difficult to maintain. week- per- The goal of this year's usage pattern is to ensure that the carb is completely depleted. Running it until it stops and won't restart is usually a bad idea - leaving gas in a carb for an extended period of time is a recipe for disaster. Gas absorbs water, resulting in a varnish-like substance. A Mantis carb's small passages are particularly vulnerable. br>br>My plan is to dry it out, then add a small amount of aviation fuel (alcohol-free, IIRC) to prevent varnish buildup. My tiller might start right up again next spring. If not, I'll shell out another $18 for a new, low-cost carburetor.
This carb arrived quickly, was well-packaged, and included all of the necessary parts for a thorough rebuild, including extra priming buttons that I'll keep for future use. My tiller is now up and running like a champ! Instead of taking it to a silly shop, I was able to save a lot of money. This carb substitute comes highly recommended!.