Rolurious 20 Sheets DIY A4 Inkjet Waterslide Decal Transfer Paper Sheets Transparent Clear for Inkjet Printer
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Make sure you spray at least three coats of clear spray paint on the printed sheets; I used Krylon. I used both the matte and semi-gloss finishes (gloss was unavailable at the time). Wait an hour after the first coat has been sprayed. It'll be dry by then, but why risk it? Wait at least an hour before spraying the second coat. Allow for overnight drying after the third coat. And when soaking the printed pieces, only soak them for as long as it takes the print to come loose from the paper. That was about a quarter of a century ago for me. Timer: 30 seconds Gently tug on the print until both edges come free. For a full sheet, it might take longer. I only used smaller pieces, no more than 1/4 sheet per decal, and each one took about 30 seconds to complete. My printer is an old Pixma that I don't have anything fancy. I didn't have any problems. The White decal paper, which works in the same way as the color decal paper, is required for color decals on a color or print background. Otherwise, the background color will show through, and your decal will blend into it.
Yes, the water slide paper is kept from melting by a thin coat of clear sealer. I've tried it with one and two coats; two coats work best for me, but only thin coats are required. I've been using this paper for a while and have had good results with it; just take your time with it.
It will eventually come off, but you can make it last longer by painting a clear coat over it.
Although the instructions say to heat it, I've used it on items I've made and simply applied a clear coat to it, and it's worked out fine for me. So, if you coat them in clear, I'd say yes.
Selected User Reviews For Rolurious 20 Sheets DIY A4 Inkjet Waterslide Decal Transfer Paper Sheets Transparent Clear for Inkjet Printer
This is a thorough examination with usage suggestions. I understand and can relate to all of the negative comments. To avoid disaster, I'll share some of my tips and tricks. After reading the reviews, I had my reservations, but I need to transfer about 300 images onto ceramic plates for a fundraising event for my nonprofit organization to support the victims/survivors of the Las Vegas shooting and to raise funds for inner-city art programs. This is the most cost-effective (and best) method. And, yes, you read that correctly: I transferred all 300 images onto plates by myself (plates were donated to us), so you can imagine how skilled I became. br>br>TIPS TRICKS (This is based on my own personal experience, which has proven to be effective - br>1) When printing, make sure to mirror your image. After you've printed your photos - You MUST use a fixative (I use Krylon Colormaster Covermax - Krylon Colormaster Covermax - Krylon Colormaster Covermax - Krylon Color Clear Satin (non-reflective) deterioration). This is one area where you can't be too frugal - Your prints must be generously coated. Two thick coats were applied. This isn't something to skimp on. The inkjet ink will run and smear your work if you apply a light coat. br>2) Wait until it's completely dry before doing anything else. The instructions stated that the cut should be soaked in water for 30 minutes. 60 seconds is the time limit. DO NOT LISTEN TO DIRECTIONS. Only soak for 15 minutes. It only takes 20 seconds. I found that soaking the transfer for 30 seconds makes the film too flimsy and difficult to work with; I've found that soaking it for 60 seconds causes the film to deteriorate and rip easily - At this point, it's very difficult to deal with. I discovered that the ideal time is between 18 and 20 minutes. seconds. When you submerge the transfer in water, it curls up and begins to unfurl into a taco shell shape, indicating that it is ready to use. Usually between the ages of 18 and 25 the second mark (NOTE: For a smaller transfer image, the time will be cut in half. When I transferred the student's name to the plate's backside, the image was approximately 1. It was only 10-inch wide and took only ten minutes to make. Soaking for 12 seconds. )br>3) Placement Take the transfer and place it face down (this is why you want your image to be mirrored). I smooth the transfer while keeping the paper backing in place. Then I carefully peel the transfer away from the surface (do not peel - see below). Remove it with a slide). NO AIR BUBBLES SUGGESTIONS: The backing will leave a slimy residue on your hands. I re-read the book at this point. I slide the backing (slimy side facing film) around the images to remove air bubbles and gain access to water. (I discovered that my fingers would stick to the film, causing wrinkles; however, when I use the backing, the film does not stick and creates a smooth surface. ) br>4) The drying process. Allow to air dry for a few hours, then dab with damp paper towel to remove any remaining water. Wipe with a damp cloth rather than a dry one. The recipe calls for a 10-minute bake time. Preheat oven to 100°F for 15 minutes. Allow to sit for 1 minute at a temperature of 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Air dry for 3 days. The movie was still tacky after three days. The plates were still tacky after 20 minutes in the oven. I discovered that if I microwave the plates for 30 seconds, I can get them to look like new. On High, it sealed the film perfectly in seconds per plate. Due to the size of my microwave, I can only microwave three plates at a time. a half-minute (30 seconds per plate) br>br>Overall, I believe you will enjoy this product after learning a few tricks. The most time-consuming process was selecting, printing, and cutting images. I transferred images on both sides of the plate (art in front and back) in a short amount of time. I was able to transfer about 2 dozen (24 plates) in about 30 hours (names on back). I was, after all, working on both sides. It's something I'd re-use. I've included images of the plates (showcasing various art mediums to demonstrate quality and detail). Be patient and test before getting too invested in your project; a little tinkering can go a long way.
It took some trial and error to get this just right, but it now works flawlessly and looks fantastic. The main issue I had was reversing the image as instructed in a review. It just didn't look right, or I couldn't make the transition smoothly. I decided to try it without reversing the image after many failed attempts. I did waste a few sheets the first time, but now that I understand how they work, I will be purchasing more. My main recommendations are as follows: (1) 3 - br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br>br>b Clear acrylic was applied in four light coats. Krylon Low Odor Clear Finish was used for this project. If you use heavy coats for the first few coats, the ink may smear. I went heavier on the third and fourth coats. (2) Warm, but not hot, water for no more than 20 seconds. If you wait too long, the transfer will become too soft and wrinkle easily. br>(3) The wet object is being transferred so that it can be moved around easily for positioning. (4) Use a soft cloth (I used an old t-shirt) to remove the paper from the object. br> water bubbles out with a light pat or a simple slide. You are not permitted to use any type of squeegee. br>(5) They dried fairly quickly in my experience. They stayed tacky even after baking or drying for three days, according to the reviewer who said reverse the image. That, I believe, is due to the fact that they were put on backwards due to the image being reversed.
The important thing to remember is that the CLEAR water slide decals will look great with black text and black silhouettes. If you're using a different color, keep in mind that your printer's ink isn't opaque, and the shade is determined by the coverage, so even gray is just a less dense black. The color of the background will be visible. I used a light blue background to transfer a photograph of my children in a store with shopping aisles in the background. Despite the fact that the photo was transferred cleanly, the background color tinted everything, making the photo less clear and easy to see. A color inkjet photo of a dog, on the other hand, was clear and sharp when transferred to a white background. A photo of a flower was successfully transferred to wood, but the flower revealed the wood beneath it. br>br>Get the decals that say "WHITE" to put color images on anything that isn't white. It's a little confusing, but the decals' background is white, so your colors will stand out. because the colors are reflected by the white. The "CLEAR" decals are completely colorless.
The colors are vibrant and evenly distributed (some waterslide papers can "clump" the ink, giving it a screenprinted or halftone appearance, which I don't like on waterslide paper). It's thin but strong, and I haven't yet ripped it by accident. To seal it, I used Rustoleum 2x Clear Matte Sealer spray, which works great without cracking the ink layer. I'm going to buy it once more.
I had good results with this paper and would recommend it over others sold on Amazon after trying a few different brands. br>br>After printing your design(s), you'll need to spray the paper with a clear gloss, matte, or acrylic spray to keep the ink from running once it's submerged in water. br>br>I've tried printing on regular paper before, but I've found that printing on matte paper produces the best results, with no ink running or looking blotchy. br>br>I used three good coats of clear spray, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next, and the results were fantastic. br>br>This paper is A4 in size, not the standard 8. You'll need to account for this in your design and printer settings because it's a standard size of 5 x 11 inches. br>br>I hope you found this information useful!.
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