Enbrighten GE Premium Slim LED Light Bar, 12 Inch Under Cabinet Fixture, Plug-In, Convertible to Direct Wire, Linkable, 415 Lumens, 3000K Soft Warm White, High/Off/Low, Easy to Install, 38845, 12
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Questions & Answers
GE offers a variety of linking cord lengths. Call 1- 800- 654- Choose option number 3 when calling 8483 Monday through Friday.
I'm not sure, but you could mount it at an angle and not notice because you won't be able to see the light.
What exactly is a smart plug, and how does it work?
This is NOT a motion picture. light that has been turned on To turn this light on and off, you'll need to use the rocket switch on the side.
Selected User Reviews For Enbrighten GE Premium Slim LED Light Bar, 12 Inch Under Cabinet Fixture, Plug-In, Convertible to Direct Wire, Linkable, 415 Lumens, 3000K Soft Warm White, High/Off/Low, Easy to Install, 38845, 12
The light is deserving of a five-star rating in and of itself. The light and the switch are both of excellent quality. The light pattern is fairly directional, though it does have a 180 degree spread, and it is more directional than a comparable fluorescent light, which has a true 180 degree spread. br>br>To put it another way, imagine the light emitting in a directional floodlight pattern rather than a 180-degree pattern. The bulbs are bright, and the color tone isn't too harsh. A "LOW/HIGH" setting is available on the switch. br>br>The mounting brackets are pitifully flimsy and must be handled with extreme caution when mounting the light.
It's fantastic- The space is small but bright. The two-way switch allows you to choose between bright and dim lighting. You can screw it into the cabinet using the two holes on the top. It costs $1, according to the package. The cost of running a business is 34 dollars a year. I use this as an under-cabinet light in the kitchen and have no qualms about leaving it on for several hours.
These tiny lights are brighter than the fluorescent lights that they replaced, which were 12 inches in diameter. It was a little difficult to measure and drill the screw holes. I solved the problem by creating a template out of a piece of cardboard and punching holes in it at the proper spacing. I'd drill the first hole, then insert a wooden toothpick through the template and into the hole I'd just drilled, ensuring that the template was under the cabinet and aligned with the light's final position. I'd then drill a second hole through the hole in the template's other (non-toothpick) end. My cabinets were barely wide enough to fit the lights, so I had to mount them carefully so that I could run the electric cable connecting the lights.
The idea is to snip one end of the plug and connect the wires to a switch next to a powered plug, allowing it to be direct wired. I used lamp wire to connect the "white" strands or connections that came with the lights from one to the other when I was remodeling the walls. This was a very simple procedure that was similar to any other wiring. br>I'm hoping they last a long time, but I bought two extras to keep in the boxes just in case, since I won't be able to rewire through the walls if one fails and they stop making them in ten years.
On the low setting, 1 watt per bar! I just put a couple of the 12" light bars around the stove under my kitchen cabinets. Color temperature is good, and the brightness is even. My Kill- Watt is a unit of measurement of 2. On a low brightness setting, 1 Watt per bar! The low setting is bright enough for accent lights and to replace incandescent bulbs in my over-the-counter lighting. Using only a small amount of electricity, you can microwave on the range. The bright lighting is extremely bright; I'm not sure how often I'll use it. br>br>I purchased a "GE Grounded Outlet Power Switch" (Amazon B0113VTPSW) to turn the daisy-chained outlets on and off. Without the need for an in-line switch, chained light strips can be turned on and off more easily. Toggle switch for a dedicated outlet on the wall It works flawlessly with the lights (on or off).
I purchased these with the expectation that they would perform as well as the first generation GE under cabinet lights, but I was disappointed. Not only did I need to purchase a new connector for this light, but it also died just over a month after I purchased it.
This one was ordered to replace one that had burnt out after only 11 months of light use. Because the wiring and mounting screws for this light had already been installed, I ordered another one. When I turned it on the other day, the original flashed and went out. Neither the low nor the high settings were effective. After 11 months of light use, LEDs aren't supposed to burn out. Maybe it was a bad LED; I'll give this one a shot, but next time I'll rewire for one with a longer warranty.
After 15 months, the on/off switch failed. This is a $25 piece of garbage. So much for the GE brand, which I grew up with and knew could be counted on to last forever.