aichose Brix Refractometer with ATC, Dual Scale - Specific Gravity & Brix, Hydrometer in Wine Making and Beer Brewing, Homebrew Kit
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Yes, you certainly can.
I'm guessing you're referring to molasses when you say "melases." Although I have not attempted to determine the specific gravity (SG) of molasses, I believe you will have difficulty with pure molasses. It's possible that the SG is out of range, and the dark color of molasses makes it difficult to read. You should be able to use the reflectometer if the molasses has been dissolved in water. br>br>To use a refractometer, start by zeroing it with plan water at a temperature close to what you're measuring. Temperature has an impact on SG. Once the refractometer is zeroed, dry the surface and drop a few drops of the substance you want to measure onto the refractometer, then read the results. In bright light, the refractometer is more visible: A flashlight or the light of the sun are the only options.
Brix is a unit of measurement for sugar content. I don't see why it wouldn't work if you could convert the maple syrup's sugar content to Brix. Viscosity is the only issue that comes to mind. You might have some trouble cleaning the device between measurements if the maple syrup is thick and viscous. br>I used mine to figure out how much sugar was in grapes.
At the very least, you get a blue line, whereas my can only be calibrated to water, and any liquid containing sugar results in a blank white screen. The device is a waste of time.
Selected User Reviews For aichose Brix Refractometer with ATC, Dual Scale - Specific Gravity & Brix, Hydrometer in Wine Making and Beer Brewing, Homebrew Kit
This is the exact same unit that some online brewing stores sell for twice the price. br>br>It works fine for testing non-alcoholic beverages. solutions fermented It came calibrated at 0 with distilled water and agrees at 40 points with my hydrometers. The focus ring functions properly, and the figures are legible. The transition from blue to clear is sharp enough for precise readings. br>br>Other reviews suggest that when used with partially to completely fermented products, the hydrometer is inaccurate. This is correct; when there is alcohol in the solution, they do not read the same because the two measurement processes are completely different. When alcohol is involved, you'll need to use an adjustment calculator, which you can find by doing a quick internet search. For instance: br>br> br>A Brix of ten equals one. The Brix value for 040br>5 is 1. 020br>However, a beer that fermented from 10 to 5 on your refractometer and appears to be half done will measure 1. 007 with your hydrometer, and you should be good to go. br>br>These are great for quick readings at the start of the process without having to quickly chill the wort, or dealing with temperature corrections when you need to make quick changes. Use a hydrometer or a calculator (or both) at the end of the process; it never hurts to double-check.
The product is marketed as being ideal for home brewing, but this is only true if you understand the wort and beer correction equations. "The index of refraction is used by refractometers. " Refraction is used to determine the amount of sugar in a solution. is influenced by alcohol, causing readings of alcoholic solutions (such as beer) to be higher than they should be. "br>I tried to include a link to a website that performs the refractometer correction for you, but Amazon's review policies prevent me from doing so. The readings are accurate once the correction is applied to both OG wort and FG.
Nobody seemed to be able to explain how it works in detail. No liquid or juice enters the instrument because it is a sealed unit. On the other hand, there's a reversal. place a piece of plastic on the unit's sloped front. Simply lift the plastic portion to reveal a slanted piece of glass beneath. You squish the juice between the plastic and the glass by putting a few drops of juice on the glass and then flipping the plastic flap back over it. Make sure there are no bubbles between the glass and the plastic, and you'll have a very thin sample (similar to what you'd get with two pieces of glass in a microscope). The scales can be seen if you look through the back hole. The area above the scale's reading is colorless, whereas the area below it is blue. Your scale reading is the line that divides the blue part from the colorless part. On one hand, there is brix, and on the other hand, there is specific gravity. When you're finished, flip the plastic over and wipe the glass and plastic clean before proceeding to the next sample. Grape by grape, bunch by bunch - this is the way it's done. It'll come in handy again and again. over!.
It only made it to 1. When it became clear that the amount of salt I had added to fresh water was too low, I dialed it up to 018 SG. I re-calibrated, and the result was the same. I bought a hydrometer, which showed a reading of 1. Based on the amount of salt and water I mixed, the result was 028, which made sense. This product should not be trusted until it has been verified using a reliable device.
I calibrated it with distilled water and found it to be accurate; I used it to check the start SG of a batch of wine and found it to be accurate, which my hydrometer confirmed. However, when I tested my wine again, the refractometer did not match the results of my hydrometer—the refractometer gave a much higher reading than the hydrometer. The refractometer's scale never goes below zero. My hydrometer reads 0, but I don't know what that means. 996 The instructions do not include instructions on how to display lower readings, such as how to change scales.
Maybe you've all gotten one that's working fine, but I've got two. On Saturday, I brewed six 6-gallon batches of NEIPA. The next Wednesday, this arrived. Both fermentations had slowed to a crawl by Thursday, so I'm guessing they're almost done. I decided to take a reading, and both still show that there are plenty of sugars left at 1. So the next day, I decided to use my hydrometer to take readings. 1 is read in both carboys. The refractometer is still showing a smidgeon under one at 012. At this point, I'm going to put my faith in my hydrometer readings. As a final check, I decided to read a sample of my DRY Catawba that I had on hand. The gravity reading on this refractometer is one. It should be close to or exactly at ZERO when you dial 020. This is completely out of the realm of possibility. Yes, I calibrated it prior to using it. I even tried calibrating it to match my hydrometer readings, but it wouldn't go any lower. I'm going to return it and look for a more suitable model.
I calculated the SG using a formula from a brewing website, and it was within 3 points of the hydrometer reading. So it's not perfect, but it's a lot more practical - Instead of a flask, the sample is a few drops. full. It's simple to keep track of a brew's progress and signal when fermentation is finished. I'd still use a hydrometer to calculate the ABV before and after fermentation, as well as on occasion in between. The dividing line for cherry mead in the eyepiece isn't as sharp as it is for calibration water for some reason, but it's fine.