DROK Digital Current Tester Multimeter DC 100V Volt 2A Ampere Battery Monitor Gauge 2in1 Red/Blue 2-Color LED Display Car Automotive 12V 24V Built-in Shunt
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Two of these meters are in my possession. I have two older ones and one newer one. A meter from the past The color red, the color black, the color yellow, the color large, the color red, and the color black. This meter is newer There is a small red, a small black, a large red, a large black, and a There is only one difference between the old meter and the new one the blue wire goes exactly where the old yellow wire went. The rest of the wires
Your assumption is that the little red and black wires are plus 12Vdc and minus 12Vdc, respectively. To hook the plus 12vdc wire to the red large wire, I strap red small wire to red large wire. In the minus column, there are two black circles, large and small. There is now only the yellow wire left, which is hooked up to one wire from the load and the other wire from the load to plus 12v. When it comes to this, a little knowledge can go a long way. In series with one of the load leads, the voltage is measured across the plus and minus leads, while the amps are measured in parallel with the other lead.
In what sense is this automotive-related? There are wiring schematics for common scenarios in the pictures of the listing, so I would start there to get some
Selected User Reviews For DROK Digital Current Tester Multimeter DC 100V Volt 2A Ampere Battery Monitor Gauge 2in1 Red/Blue 2-Color LED Display Car Automotive 12V 24V Built-in Shunt
Excellent little device for the money. I wired the thin black and red wires to a small 9 volt battery and then attached a magnetic switch to keep the lid closed. A plug for the input and a plug for the output were fitted. It was a solar panel that powered my car battery and the solar panel that supplied the energy to it. It is connected to the input positive lead by a thick red wire. In this test, the panel is used to measure the voltage. Current flowing through the negative lead is measured as amps by yellow and black thick leads. This means that the yellow connector and the black connector were parallel devices, with the yellow being connected to the input connector and the black to the output connector. I can measure the current going from the solar panel to the car battery perfectly with this device. The DROK 2 amp version of the panel is the right size since I have a one-foot square panel. It comes with a built-in 2 watt shunt resistor. Do you know how this works? Well, the resistance calculated to produce a 0 is Assume a maximum current of 2 amps and a voltage drop of 75 volts across the resister. You use a resistor calculated to give a 0 for the 10 amp version, but the 10 amp version works the same. A 075 volt drop occurs when 10 amps are applied. It is possible to get some models that come with a resistor you need to buy separately depending on the amount of A simple formula is 'Ohm's law,' E=IR, where E is voltage (emf), I is current in amps, and R is resistance in ohms.
There you go, there you go. I give it 5 stars because it's a perfect little device for a great price.
It's a very nice little voltmeter. I found that the color and size of the wiring were confusing and not necessarily intuitive. Once I understood the wiring, however, it worked well. It is important to understand that both black wires and yellow have a common internal ground. When you ground yellow through the shunt, it is effectively grounded. In other words, the ammeter shunt can only be inserted into a negative line between a power supply and a The large black wire is connected to the 12 volt negative line of your system power supply. (There is no need for the small black wire. ) The large yellow lead connects to your load's negative line. NOTE Don't connect your negative line to the load (e. g. , your hydraulics). A 12 volt battery cable should be connected to the load from the 12 volt supply. Each of the red wires connects to a 12V supply. It's important to keep in mind that the ammeter shunt, which is internal to the large yellow and black leads, is connected to the negative side of the load, so it can only be on the negative side of the To me, it is unclear why one of the red leads is so As a result, this number may be misleading because the current lead is low.
I ordered this meter 10 months ago and I am just now getting around to testing it. A total of three units were ordered. It worked fine and as expected for the other 2. The meter part I tried to set up did not work no matter what configuration I chose. There is no sense in the diagram(s) included with it. Shunts, which would normally be shown with a dashed line around them in order to show them're internal, should have a meter around them. I was still unable to get it to work, even with those guidelines in mind. It is obvious that others have done the same Four out of five stars were given to it.
Meters of this type have a rating of A 5-volt battery A 100V and 2A power supply. Based on the sample I tested, I found it to be pretty accurate (and it can be calibrated yourself if you like). It was also close to the current. This version of the program includes a shunt. My computer ran up to 5A without problems and up to 8A but it got very hot. I wouldn't recommend using it for long periods of time because of the heat. I looked at a few versions, and this was the most linear at low currents, down to zero. One to one and a half. This is a very compact device at an affordable price. I like it very much.
It is not explained clearly how electrical wiring works. It is too complicated for you to set up due to the internal grounding. I am unable to get both a voltmeter and an ammeter to work together well. In case you were wondering, I'm an electronics engineer.
It is 0 for minor beef. An amp of 01 does not measure accurately or for a long period of time. Despite this, it's not enough to take one star off due to the fact that it's intended to read current material. The author of this review compares it to a fluke reading - The accuracy out of the box is pretty good (enough that it doesn't need to be adjusted). I am using this for a battery monitor in a D cell buck converter to USB charger so I don't lose my regulated output due to exceeding the input threshold of the buck converter. The project has been completed!.
As far as using it to measure current in automotive equipment is concerned, this is BS. The task cannot be accomplished. In a car application, the circuit might work if one end is connected to the ground, but that isn't remotely feasible.
Apparently it is the same as SMAKN volt/amp meter (which I bought as a replacement for one that was defective straight out of the box). It was just the thing I was looking for, this DROK volt amp meter. Depending on how far into the future the current runs, it might actually carry up to 10 Amps for a period of time without melting. There was a problem with the wire gauge on the SMAKN meter because it couldn't carry the 10 amps it should have. It's not clear what the instrument calibration of the Fluke meters is and I can't verify the accuracy. Unlike other meters that are bulky and dim, this volt/amp meter is small and bright. Other users on this site have noted that there are no instructions included in the package, so print off what you see on Amazon to connect it.
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