OTC 4531 Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installer Set
Score By Feature
OveReview Final Score
Product Description
Questions & Answers
This tool is useful, but it must, in my opinion, be classified as light duty. I had success with it on a couple of 350 Chevys. However, I broke four pull studs on a big block Chevy, but it should work fine on your "wee six," in my opinion.
It will work if the front of your LS1 balancer has threaded holes for attaching the supplied bolts. If not, you'll need a jaw style puller like the Blue Point (YA6490). I have both the Blue Point and this OTC puller and like them both. There won't be many crank balancers you can't get rid of between the two of them. I hope this information is useful.
According to the images I found on the internet, removing and installing the balancer should be simple if the installer plate fits inside the balancer's center. Now, I'm not sure if this engine uses a long reach or standard length bolt, so I can't tell you if you'll need the other type of remover/installer. They're designed for long-reach applications, and the remover uses different length spacer rods to shim the forcing bolt, while the installer uses long full threaded bolts to press the balancer in. So, first and foremost, determine whether it's a long reach or standard length bolt, then wish me luck and get started as soon as possible.
Selected User Reviews For OTC 4531 Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installer Set
I've used a variety of balancer pullers, and while most are nearly identical, they all have flaws. Or, to put it another way, they're all pretty much the same. This one isn't all that dissimilar from the others. Although the puller flange is shaped differently, it functions in the same way as any other. This method works on the majority of the brands I've tried: Chevrolet, Ford, and Toyota are three of the most well-known automobile manufacturers. When installing the balancer on some Chevys, I have to use a long bolt to get it started on the crank a little before the OTC installer catches the threads. However, this is a fairly common occurrence and is not unique to this puller. For most Chryslers, you'll need a separate puller. OTC and Lisle both make excellent ones. Some Ford engines require a special puller as well, but you can look this up by engine or read some of the other reviews to see which Ford engines require a special puller. br>br>Lubricate the threads with oil or bearing grease, just as you would with any other puller. If you don't take proper care of the tool, the threads will quickly become damaged. When pulling the crank pulley, make sure the puller is installed straight and remains straight. Most tool trucks will cover the set's parts, but that won't help you if you need it right away. br>br>Anyway, this set appeals to me, as do OTC special tools in general. It's simple to warranty them, and they're widely available. The case is well-made and sturdy, and it aids in keeping everything in order. This set, along with the Chrysler puller, is all I really need for the work I do. So, for the most part, this set is comprehensive enough to cover the vast majority of applications you'll encounter. To finish it off, just add the Chrysler puller.
I couldn't wait to get my hands on this set of pulleys! It was an OTC branded set, and I was willing to pay a premium for the brand; it arrived quickly, and I saw that it was shipped from Bosch Automotive, so I couldn't wait to open it! br>br>When I first opened the very nice case, I noticed that the milled slots in the primary component (the puller itself) appeared to be a little sloppy. Some of the slots' ends appear to have been milled slightly off-center from the slots, and whatever tool was used to do the machine work was in bad shape. I initially mistook it for a used item, but the nasty finish on the slot ends was completely covered by the puller finish, indicating that it had to have come directly from the manufacturer. While I'm sure the tool would pull well, there's no way this badly machined puller could have made it out of the factory. The no-name pullers we have at work have nicely machined surfaces, not gouged out like this OTC part; the OTC puller set costs twice as much as the no-name pullers, but perhaps they're all made on the same production line; the OTC set will be returned, and I'll get a no-name set for half the price.
When I used it on a 2006 Chevy Malibu for the first time, it broke. The puller body, which was originally one piece of metal with an internal thread, was split into two pieces. LOL. What materials are they using to make this tool out of? Also cracked was the bearing's upper side. The first time, it took over a month to replace one part, and the second time, despite the fact that I emailed them pictures, they demanded that I ship the broken part back to them. I haven't been able to use the tool since I bought it. If the tool keeps breaking and it takes more than a month to replace each part, the warranty is essentially useless. br>This tool is made in Taiwan. The warranty is only valid for the tool's first owner and cannot be transferred. LOL.
After a three-year search, I decided to purchase this tool. My Mercruiser 350's very tight balancer would not budge with the jaw slide hammer. Because so much of this motor is visible, I assumed rust was to blame. I was looking for a pulley with a strong (i. e. e, not a simple casting) plate, as well as a large lead screw with fine threads. This unit also has a nice thrust bearing, which reduces friction even more under load. Although I used my own three bolts to attach the puller plate to the balancer to get maximum thread engagement, the included parts fit the fairly ordinary Mercruiser/GMC perfectly. After I was finished, I noticed three bolts under the foam liner on the lid side of the plastic storage case that would have fit perfectly. br>br>I carefully assembled the puller on the motor, sprayed the lead screw with Kroil to lubricate it, and pulled the pulley right off. There was no drama, and the 1 1/2 foot long wrench had a decent, but not excessive, tug. Unlike the 'one star' reviewer who wanted a coarse pitch lead screw to get the balancer off 'faster,' I found the leverage of the fine pitch lead screw to be exactly what I needed. The mating surfaces looked gleaming and nice with the balancer removed, so I assume the stuck was due to tolerances. At the very least, I now have a fantastic tool for reinstalling it gently! br>br>The only drawback, which isn't enough to detract from the overall rating, is that the storage box is only designed to hold the included parts. To keep my bolts with the rest of the set, I simply stuck them in a random finger groove.
I've had this puller for a year and a half. For a living, I repair automobiles every day. This tool has sat unused in my toolbox for the simple reason that I've never needed it and my other pullers are more than adequate. I had to use the OTC 4531 for the first time today. It would be an understatement to say that I was disappointed. I got it on the balancer and it broke just as I was getting resistance on my ratchet! To make matters worse, there was rust where it broke!.
I have a variety of steering wheel and balancer pullers, but installing the balancer can be challenging at times. I've never been a fan of hammer mechanics, but in the absence of a long bolt with the correct threads, I've had to hammer a balancer a short distance onto the crankshaft until the bolt solidly reached the threads. Despite the fact that I always shielded the balancer with a 2x4, I became known as the dreaded hammer mechanic. I mostly had to work on Chevy engines, but it was only a short distance, and balancers went on relatively easily with light taps until the threads caught. However, a recent job on a Jeep with a 258 Cu In Rambler engine changed all of that. I'd heard of installers before, and I finally decided to get one for my toolbox. I haven't needed it since, but it's funny how, after purchasing a tool, you begin to wonder how you ever managed without it.
Related Products For OTC 4531 Harmonic Balancer Puller and Installer Set
