Outdoor Mounting Bracket for Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump Systems, Universal, 9000-36000 Btu Condenser
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That isn't correct. Take note of the three slots on the crossbar. Allows for a wide range of mounting screw spacing. On 16 or 24 inch centers, it works fine.
It necessitates the use of a 12 mm bit. Best of luck in your search! 7/6" is too small (anchor will be crushed) and 1/2" is too big (anchors will not grip). Purchase a unit that does not include anchors, or purchase a unit from a different manufacturer.
Mine did a fantastic job on the building's side. I'd make another purchase.
Yes, some parts are missing; mine came with a bag of rubber mounting feet, as well as nuts and washers for mounting them to the brackets and mounting the unit to the feet. For mounting the bracket assembly to the wall, it includes lag bolts and plastic inserts.
Selected User Reviews For Outdoor Mounting Bracket for Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump Systems, Universal, 9000-36000 Btu Condenser
This bracket is designed to be used on concrete or brick walls. Because the bracket arms, not just the top rail, must be anchored, and because the bracket arms are spaced apart depending on the mini split (usually 20" or 26"), the bracket arms will not line up with standard stud spacing on a wood frame structure. br>I span 32" with strut channel, which is three studs on typical 16" centers, and then bolted the bracket arms to the strut channel. I didn't use the top rail that came with it because it was too flimsy. It easily supports a MrCool 36K compressor weighing around 240 pounds. br>br>I like the arms; making arms out of strut channel would have been unsightly and expensive. br>br>Even though I had to use strut channel to meet my expectations on a wood frame structure, this kit is still a good value. I just want people who have wood frame structures to know that this kit isn't quite right for them, especially if they plan to use it for the extremely heavy 24K and 36K systems.
This is a good quality bracket, but it wasn't obvious when I bought it that it was designed for brick/stone/concrete attachment and didn't have any provisions for mounting to siding/studs. I managed to make it work, though. To do so, follow these steps:
- I have studs that are 16 inches longbr>- Without modification, the included top mounting bracket can only just fit on three studs. The top bracket is not load bearing, according to the instructions, but it is quite sturdy and I believe it can handle some weight.
- I first leveled the bracket before marking and pre-drilling the holes for the top bracketbr>- Each arm is to be directly attached to the wall, according to the instructions. This was not possible because my studs are 16" in length and the distance between the arms is determined by the condenser mount points (in my case, 21").
- I bought two flat aluminum bars at Home Depot and cut them to the same length as the top mounting bracketbr>- Each aluminum bar had five holes drilled into it. 2 holes 21" apart for the arms to be properly offset, and 3 holes at 16" offsets for the aluminum bar to be attached to the studsbr>- The top bracket was then loosely attached to the center stud with a stainless lag screw. br>- The support arms were slid onto the top bracket, and the outer two lag screws were loosely attached to the top bracketbr>- Connect the aluminum bars to the support arms with stainless bolts, washers, and nylon lock nuts, offset to match the distance between your condenser mount points.
- I double-checked that everything was level, and that the open holes in the aluminum bars corresponded to the previously identified studsbr>- After that, I marked the 6 holes (3 in each aluminum bar) that needed to be predrilled for the stainless lag screwsbr>- Pre-drilled the 6 holes mentioned above after removing the bracket and arms from the wall. br>- Use 9 lag screws to loosely reattach the top bar and aluminum bars to the siding. I used washers to space the aluminum bar away from the wall a little so the bolt head wouldn't push against the siding and bend it outward. br>- Tighten the arms to the aluminum bar in the same way you did the rest of the assembly. br>- All lag screws must be tightened. br>br>I hope this information was useful! Except for the threaded bushings, which I couldn't find an easy replacement for, I replaced all of the hardware with stainless steel. Good luck, and feel free to ask questions in the comments!.
A Gree unit worth $28,000 was purchased. br>br>This bracket must be attached to solid framing. ie. your wall's studs- to ensure that the loads it carries are supported safely. You'll need some extra parts if your studs are on 16" centers, like ours were, and your unit is designed to mount on a 24" bracket spacing. We used 2" Uni Strut to span the bracket's legs, which were installed on a 32" center. It performs admirably and is extremely durable. The kit comes with a horizontal piece with a built-in level. Because the instructions state unequivocally that it is not intended for use with weights- purely for the purpose of leveling- We didn't include it because it would have clashed with our board and batten siding design. Using a standard 4' carpenters level, leveling the brackets was simple. br>br>As a final note, make sure your unit allows for a small clearance between it and the wall, as ours does not meet the 1' clearance requirement and is closer to 7". The bracket legs would have to be longer to meet the clearance, and we didn't want to do that because it would put loads on the hinge point that the bracket wasn't designed for. br>br>Overall, a fantastic value for the money.
I found studs to drill into, so instead of the 2-inch timber screws, I used 4" timber screws. 12" screws are included in the package. Our only issue was that the mini split compressor feet were 21" apart, so we used treated 2 x 4s bolted perpendicular to the brackets and placed the unit on top of them. Our modification, as well as the brackets, were well received by the contractor who installed the unit. The angle of the brackets was criticized by some reviewers. We discovered that once the unit was installed in the brackets, there was no problem. br>The unit's weight helped to even things out a little.
The bracket is well-made, but I docked two stars because of the zinc-plated steel hardware, useless plastic anchors, and the need for a difficult-to-find mounting location. Find a drill bit with a diameter of 12mm for masonry. br>br>I prefer stainless steel hardware for hardware that will be exposed to the elements on a regular basis. At an additional cost, I replaced all of the hardware with stainless hardware, which should have cost the manufacturer no more than $5 to $10. I spent about $25 on small amounts of stainless hardware. br>br>I used a cinder block foundation to install this bracket. Plastic anchors were provided, but they were ineffective. Even in the non-profit sector, The plastic anchors had little hold power in hollow areas of the cinder block. I was able to turn the lag screws indefinitely without running into any resistance. This was despite using the recommended 12mm masonry bit. Double expanding anchors and matching machine screws were used in place of the plastic anchors and lag screws. Torque specifications for stainless machine screws are readily available. When you use a torque wrench, you can tell when the screws are properly tightened. br>br>I like the bracket a lot, but I'm not crazy about the cheap hardware.
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