Kerick Valve PT050525 PVC Float Valve, Tank Mount, 12.5 gpm at 60 psi, 1/2" NPT Male
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The weight of the float should be enough to open the valve without requiring much water pressure (if any).
I'm not sure what you're getting at, but when the water level reaches the level you've set, this valve will automatically shut off the flow of water.
This valve is approved for use with drinking water, which is exactly what I'm doing with it. It's made of PVC, and it's not from Amazon or Grainger. A temperature range is listed in the com specs. I'd go with a brass valve if it's for hot water. As an industrial supply house, Grainger has a much larger selection and is much more organized.
I haven't tried it with a square float because I use a round one, but I don't think it matters. As a result, I believe it will be successful.
Selected User Reviews For Kerick Valve PT050525 PVC Float Valve, Tank Mount, 12.5 gpm at 60 psi, 1/2" NPT Male
It's a float valve component. It does not sit well with me. To begin with, it does not include all of the necessary components. It's just a valve with no float. There is no such thing as a "float valve. " Both the rod and the float must be purchased separately. Anyway, if the fluid level in your tank rises a few inches "too high" for whatever reason, the wing nut on this valve, which holds your precious perfect level, will slip out of its setting, bending the entire mechanism backwards. In other words, if you plan to use this in a sump where you need to maintain a level but it may be completely overfilled at times, such as in a sump, you should keep looking for another float valve. Like me. I've also used the Kent Float Valve, which can withstand being submerged, so I assumed all float valves could as well, but I was wrong. My Kerick is currently holding a level nearly a foot above where I expected it to be after being submerged, as it won't hold a normal level after being submerged. In this listing, it's also photographed upside down, but I wouldn't expect a photographer to also be a plumber and know what they're doing or how it should be oriented, so whatever. The photo had no bearing on my two stars; if I had given it a point, I would have given it one. I gave Kerick one of the two stars for making a somewhat usable device, and the other star for having a deep thread that could pass through a thick tank wall in my vote. That's something that many other devices with similar marketing don't have. I believe that using a wing nut to adjust the level was a poor decision. The spud/plunger device, like the wing nut elbow, fails when exposed to more liquid than it was designed for. I used a poly sphere for the record. As a last resort, I'll test the polyethylene rectangle by submerging it and seeing how it reacts. I'll go out and buy a new one of these valves, connect it to the smaller float, and try again. Before I move on to another solution, it's worth giving it a second chance. Mine is ruined as a result of being submerged (additional fluid was added to the tank after the valve shut down). off point, causing the float to float too high, and breaking all of the moving parts on this valve) so be careful and, if that's not possible in your project, find another valve. If you insist on trying this one, use the rectangle white float instead of the round black one. br>If that configuration meets my requirements, I'll revise my review. I would have bought the smaller float if I had known there was one when I was buying the three separate items, but I didn't. I had to use a 4th item, a bulkhead, to screw this into (I tossed the gasket and lock nut that came with it and simply screwed this into a bulkhead, allowing me to use it in a thicker wall than this will safely fit on its own). The bulkhead that comes standard with this valve is far from ideal. If I could take one thing away, it would be 1. I would give it a five-star rating.
Isn't it true that the brass is superior? Not in the least. They accumulate much more quickly and prevent the valve from completely shutting off. In the summer, this is a pain, but in the winter, it's a complete nightmare. We're still waiting to see how long the plastic ones last, but unless they break down soon, I'd pick these over brass any day. Furthermore, isn't it less expensive? It's all too good to be true, right?.
I needed to keep water flowing from the glass fish tank to the sump tank in my indoor Aquaponics setup, but I didn't want either of them to overflow. To keep things balanced, I put one of these in each.
the top of the flow reservoir off. The Kerick valve has left me very happy. br>.
I'm filling up my Koi pond with this. Algae can grow, and the sludge sometimes prevents it from fully closing, causing my well pump to keep running. I'm not sure if this is a major unit flaw or, more likely, a flaw in my environment.
Following that, I was only there for a couple of months. The ball float rod's small handle broke off after that. I've been using it without the ball float for a while now. The goal is defeated. br>Buy Mueller Industries' brass valve, part number B n K 109-. For the same price, you can get a phone number of 813.
It works perfectly because I have a gravity feed and the large orifice allows plenty of nourishing solution to pass through. The valve shuts off tight and was simple to install.
This product was installed in a pond filling system, and it appeared to solve the problem with the original float valve. I also needed to get a float bulb and arm. Arrived on time and in good shape.
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