1/2" to 1/4“ Water Float Valve, Water Level Control Water Tank Traditional Float Valve Upgrade 2 PCS (1/2" to 1/4" Side Inlet)
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If the valve was completely submerged, I'd expect it to close. The water level cutoff is about halfway up the valve, so once the water level drops below that, the valve will open and allow water to flow in. However, the valve will close once it reaches the halfway point, so if you want the water level to be higher, I recommend getting some elbows and pipe to make the valve work at the desired level. It was also something I had to do for my setup. I wrote a review and included a photo, but according to Amazon, it takes a week for it to be approved.
Yes ! Despite the fact that I did not perform a bucket test, the device emits a substantial amount of water and shuts off when the level reaches the top. From what I've seen, 5GPM at 60psig appears to be very accurate. My inlet pressure is around 70 psig, and I have a 3/4" PVC line running to it before reducing to 1/2" at the device (minimal pressure loss due to line size or pipe condition). I use this for water feature level control in a 100 gallon tank, and it has worked flawlessly for 6 months! Excellent value for money.
The strainer, which appears to be stainless, is the only metal in the valve, as far as I recall. Anything you put in a salt water aquarium will probably get gunked up, but it won't be from corrosion or rusting. Because the valve I received would not withstand high water pressure, I would advise you to be concerned about that rather than corrosion.
Selected User Reviews For 1/2" to 1/4“ Water Float Valve, Water Level Control Water Tank Traditional Float Valve Upgrade 2 PCS (1/2" to 1/4" Side Inlet)
The first one I tried bled through, resulting in an overflow. Since I've tried about 5 different valves that are very similar, it seemed like more of the same story from these type valves at the time. I started testing at 30 psi and had enough seepage to overflow a 2 gallon container in less than 12 hours, so I contacted the seller, Jimmy, who responded quickly and gave me some pointers. One of them was to inspect the rubber seat of the closing mechanism for any debris. That was done, but there was no debris to be found. After reassembling the valve, the next step was to increase the incoming pressure to around 50 psi and put it through its paces of filling to see if it would respond and not allow any seepage. So far, the four valves haven't overflowed in over 20 hours, and Jimmy has been a great help, offering to refund my money several times. I purchased ten more of these valves so that we can test each one individually before putting them into service in the field. Thank you so much, Jimmy!.
The float valve was replaced with a regular float valve that was half the price and did not leak. It's also not as much higher flow as they claim, and none of the benefits appear to be valid. This one is more expensive because it does not include a mounting gasket and nut, whereas the cheaper one does. The directions are illegible and written in sloppy English. There's no way of knowing where the fill line will fall. Even if you screw a fitting on the inlet, there isn't much holding the filter screen in place other than friction, so it simply falls out. As someone previously stated, the elbow simply slips over the threaded outlet. I don't like to generalize and say that all products made in other countries are cheap and poorly made, but this is an excellent example.
A user guide brochure, a float valve, and a 90 elbow are among the unboxing contents. There's no way to keep it in place because there's no hardware. That ought to be a requirement. If you buy it, go to a big box store and look for a rigid conduit locknut in the electrical conduits section to mount it. I'm not sure why the number 90 is included in the equation. Because it isn't threaded, it can't be slid over the inlet or outlet pipe threads. I took away two stars because getting the locknut was inconvenient for me.
For the past two months, I've been working as advertised. Less clumsy than traditional float type level controllers, easy to plumbed into reservoir, and cost effective. Tip for those using this for flowing water features, such as waterfalls, that shut off on a timer: Before you set this device to the desired level in the tank, make sure the pump is circulating. When the circulation pump is turned off, the water level in the reservoir may rise above this device, causing your retention pond, tank, or reservoir to overflow.
This float valve was exactly what I needed for my hydroponics tanks. The design is straightforward and effective in maintaining the proper volume in my tanks. I've had no problems with it for the past three weeks.
In my aquarium, I have a water filtration system. The first valve is attached to a barrel containing filter media such as gravel and sand, and it is then connected to a garden horse via fittings. It works fine; water from this barrel is diverted to a storage barrel before being used in the aquarium, and the second valve is attached to this barrel. The second valve does not open at low pressure because the water pressure is solely determined by gravity. Water flows to the second barrel when the valve is removed, but not when it is attached. For low pressure, this isn't a good option.
In my pondless waterfall, it was exactly what I needed. I used to have to constantly check the water level and manually refill; now all I have to do is turn on the water a little and the float keeps the tank at the ideal level. I am overjoyed!.
It's a great deal for two, so you'll have one left over. It's a world of difference from the old ball float valve. Despite its small size, it produces a surprising amount of outflow. For a pond application, it's simple to conceal. It really works. br>I'm not sure why they charge the same price for two 3/4" valves as they do for one 1/2" valve. This was an excellent purchase.
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