Glarks 100pcs 16-14 Gauge Fully Insulated Female Male Spade Nylon Quick Disconnect Electrical Insulated Crimp Terminals Connectors Assortment Kit
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These work well as wire splices, Mongo. The answer is still yes if you're going to use these to determine electrical polarity. You must, however, adhere to the proper crimping technique. br>br>Female must be positive to source. br>Male must be a positive to device. br>A male must be negative to the source. br>The device's negative must be a female. If you crimp these any other way, you risk shorting your source to ground or reversing polarity on your device.br>br>This is also a good way to crimp bullet connectors. br>br>Now that that's out of the way, I'd like to issue two cautionary statements:
1. Before the FEMALE crimp connector, place a fuse on the source side. This will keep your device and/or source safe. 2. br>br>1. br>br>br>br>br>br Connect the source female to the source male and the device female to the device male at all times. The electrical system will be severely harmed, and the device may be harmed as well.br>br>Be aware: I am not responsible for any damages or losses incurred as a result of using this information, and I will not be held responsible in the future. Period. It's all up to you.
Yep. 22- The red terminals can be wired with 18 gauge wire.
I was using them for a 12v DC car, but amperage is even more important.br>Ohms law states that voltage equals resistance times amperage. I'd Google what a 14 and 16 gage wire is good for.
No, they're not completely waterproof. Crimp the wire with a standard insulated crimp and push it together.
Selected User Reviews For Glarks 100pcs 16-14 Gauge Fully Insulated Female Male Spade Nylon Quick Disconnect Electrical Insulated Crimp Terminals Connectors Assortment Kit
You can tell these are cheap just by looking at the packaging. Yes, they'll work, but I'm only a hobbyist, so I wouldn't waste my time with them. br>br>In my photo, you can see a comparison to another brand I have, where the metal is thin and does not engage well. Another thing is that, unlike other brands, they are not symmetrical. That is, they only interact in one direction. This could become a problem during assembly later on. This also means that standard spade connectors will not work with these. Many of the contacts have been bent or clocked in such a way that they are difficult to connect. br>br>According to other reviewers, the contact does not last. Until I tried these, I didn't give it much thought. The insulator is easily removed. Putting strain on the conductor is required to disconnect. br>I didn't bother with crimp strength testing. These will be returned to you. br>br>In the end, I went to a local electrical supply store and bought it. For 50 pieces, the price is $9. It was money well spent.
When used with 16 awg copper stranded wires and a proper ratchet crimp tool, the connectors simply pull out, so I would recommend looking elsewhere for crimp quick disconnect. I tried making adjustments but had no luck; however, the tool crimps 3m wires with ease and keeps them connected until the wire breaks. I tried using some front crimping pliers, but I still couldn't get the wires to stay in the blue slot. Finally, using the red slot and crimping until the connectors are severely deformed and nearly sheared off, the wire stays inside without letting go. br>br>Perhaps they will work better for 14 awg, but I did not test them because after wasting half of the connectors, the rest were discarded because the risk of pullout or poor connections was not worth the risk.
Glarks is THE BEST wire connector I've ever come across! Before deciding what to stock my shop with, I was extremely picky and purchased a wide range of brands. The two things I like best about this brand in general are that they have every single type of connector you could possibly require. Some businesses only have red and blue, and if you want yellow, it's clear that they aren't the same. It looks a lot better if all of the connectors match. The insulation is also very thick, which is one of the best features of these. When I crimped down on the majority of them, I noticed that the insulation would split open on the crimp. These are much thicker and more durable, and they can withstand a lot more wear and tear.
I tried using these for 18 gauge wires but gave up after a half-dozen tries with a crimp tool. The metal tube is crimped as tightly as possible over the wire, but the connector still slips off with a normal tug, giving me no confidence in the crimp's ability to hold.
There isn't a 12-inch version of this item. Specified in 10 gauge. If you use a 12-inch crimping tool, you won't be able to crimp it down. Ratchet crimp with a gauge of ten. It was necessary to use an old-school crimp tool, and some of the crimps had to be soldered on. The cable is not bitten by the crimp ring. The metal is too thin, and the crimp rings on the majority of connectors are of varying lengths. Every time the work piece was moved, I had to double-check the connections.
I'll take care of the metal terminals. You could use a butt connector if you want a permanent connection, but I needed a connection that I could disconnect and reconnect. The plastic insulator pulls away from the metal terminal when the two connectors are pulled apart. I have never had that problem before, so I consider this brand a failure and will not use or recommend it in the future. I'm not going to test the metal terminals because they're going to be discarded.
Ok, for larger gauge wire. Works well for thicker gauge wire. I started my project with thinner wire than I needed and had to re-wire it. To get around this, you can buy.
I read the negative reviews and thought to myself, "They can't be that bad. " well. They're a waste of time. Several of them broke, broke the wires, fell off the wires even after a good hard crimping, and when you tried to pull them apart, they also separated from the wire. I've tried a lot of low-cost crimps, and these are by far the worst.