APIELE 19mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V DC Angel Eye Halo Ring LED Metal 0.74" 1NO1NC SPDT with Wire Socket Plug (Blue LED/Black Shell)
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There are 20 awg wires in the cable.
The one in my possession
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Selected User Reviews For APIELE 19mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V DC Angel Eye Halo Ring LED Metal 0.74" 1NO1NC SPDT with Wire Socket Plug (Blue LED/Black Shell)
An inch and a half of material is necessary. This is where the mounting hole is located. As long as you don't go much bigger than the threaded portion, the switch body won't be a problem. My car's underhood LED lighting system connected it to mine, so when you see the picture you can see that the red and the blue are turning on each other. The positive lead on my LED lights is made up of blue wire. As for the yellow wire, I left it unused. I hooked up the green wire downstream to my battery with a fuse. To keep it from slipping out of the hole, I cut it shorter and tucked it behind Therefore, it is hooked up so I am not able to press the button to turn on the LEDs until I push it. Here is a translation to help clear things up.
The quality is excellent. On my model, the LED circle is fixed and does not move when the button is pressed. It feels very good and is very easy on the eyes I really like how it works. Pigtails are of good quality with a latching connector. A LED can be used with higher voltage than that supplied by 12VDC if an external resistor is connected Despite the fact that I didn't want the LED to be very bright, I used 15K for 24VDC. Both AC line voltage and DC line voltage are rated for switch contacts. In addition to the 22mm version with a floating LED ring, I have also used the 1. 75mm version. This is a good deal at five times the cost.
Unfortunately, I didn't notice this was a latching push button when I ordered it.
Converting the mated set was not very difficult, you just had to cut out a small piece of the clear plastic to remove the copper plate where the c is located. On the underside of that plate is the latching mechanism Using it now and it seems to be working well. The latch still does not latch and does not make the clicking noise.
It has so far been smooth sailing. Depending on the number of LED contacts, the lights may be turned on with as little as two. When a daylit room is present, the voltage is less than 3V and the current is less than 1mA. As per your suggestion, I will use a 3 volt LED wire. Using a 3 V microcontroller output, this is what I would say is the perfect brightness at 3 V. Three volts. At 4 V, I no longer see a full 1 mA of current. The voltage I see at 12V is Approximately 8 milliamps. It is not uncommon to see little change in illumination when you increase the voltage past 4V. The room should be well lit during the day. To illustrate the various ways of wiring this in different ways to see the load/switch status, the cut sheet that comes with these doesn't make it obvious you'd have to wire in the LED in different ways to your switch contacts. In other words, you are running LEDs across the source inputs to the switch, or you are running LEDs parallel to the load side. It is easy to see the connections when you look closely. As far as the indicator led is concerned, I want it to represent a different state (e. g. The load I am powering is actually running), so the switch accommodates this since LED's are.
Buy this switch if you don't need it. It is a big disappointment for me that he switched. As for the switch to control the lights in the bed of my pickup, it worked perfectly for the first 2 weeks after installing it. By wiring the internal light on the switch so that it would shut off when the lights in the bed were off, I was able to conserve battery power. Something is shorted internally in the switch, and the light on the switch is now always on, no matter whether the switch is pressed or not. The switch in my truck had to be removed to prevent my battery from being drawn down. My disappointment at the quality of this switch is immense. This is really good news for me now, so I don't have to wake up with.
I highly recommend the Apeile switch, which is exceptionally well made and has several ways to connect the illumination features. In an instrument panel, these rings are ideal for nighttime use - they glow nicely. There isn't much brightness, but the difference is An inadvertent operation of the push button is prevented by the detent. This connector makes connections to crimp terminals very simple, but you need to allow for the 1 inch they extend beyond the connector body (which is long to begin with and appropriate for mounting in thick wood). It worked out of the box when I purchased 4 units. Apeile switches are excellent. I would definitely purchase them.
A vibrant blue color that appeals to the eye. Make sure your hole is the right size, as I used a standard sized bit and drilled a hole just a little too large. Since the color appears brighter on the camera than on the eye, it is difficult to photograph it as seen by the eye, but it does not look like the irritating, icy blue some people see after This light is shallowly installed and is a good size to push to make other lights work. For my fog lights, I installed it low on the dash, where it remains on all the time so I can find it These LED dash lights go well with the aqua blue dash lights I have attached.
There is a diagram that shows how to wire it up. Even though it is small, it can still be read. I really like it. There is no doubt that this is a water-proof glove.
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