Migro 2 Pole 40 AMP Heavy Duty Lighting Contactor 2 Pole Models (2 Pole 120VAC Coil Voltage)
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Simply based on the part number you provided, DP stands for Double Pole, 240 means 240 volts for the main contacts, 24 means 24 volts for the control voltage, and F: I'm not sure what that means to the business that sells it. However, any heavy load up to 40 amps and 240 volts can be switched with this. Normally used to switch air conditioning compressors, but it could also be used to switch much smaller loads if you have 24 volts available.
I'm also curious about the NC version. Is that model listed anywhere?
Yes, if the contactor can physically fit and the coil voltages are the same, a larger current capacity contactor will work fine.
Are you referring to the control terminals that operate on 24VDC? If you're one of them. The tabs on the contact relay switch's left and right are what they're called. When the thermostat is set to cool, they come from the thermostat. The relay switch's solenoid will be activated by 24VAC, allowing power to flow from L1 to T1 and L2 to T2.
Selected User Reviews For Migro 2 Pole 40 AMP Heavy Duty Lighting Contactor 2 Pole Models (2 Pole 120VAC Coil Voltage)
In my furnace, I used it to replace a Hartland Controls CONT2P040024V contactor. It's the ideal substitute. It also replaces a slew of other items, a list of which can be found in the product description. Migro and Amazon helped me avoid having to call for an air conditioning repair! Thanks! br>br>Item arrived in good condition, packaged in a small cardboard box with Amazon bubble wrap.
You can also buy an upgraded version with up to 27% more silver alloy and a 5 year warranty for 4$. br>br>The model I bought has a standard amount of silver alloy and comes with a two-year warranty. br>br>I chose the less expensive option because I plan to replace it every year after the summer season to avoid downtime during the winter. br>br>* To be safe, turn off your breaker and use a multimeter (available at any home improvement store or on Amazon) to make sure the power is turned off. br>br>Hint: if you're looking for a unique way to express yourself, try using the words "innov Before removing any wires, take a picture of your old contactor in case you need to go back to it.
When you buy it, you have the option to do so. Last year, our HVAC's contactor switch failed. It was the original, which had been around for nine years. As he replaced the unit's switch, I kept a close eye on the technician. It was $82 on the bill when it arrived. Not cheap at all: $50 for the switch, $60 for the callout, and an installation fee. In less than a year, it was declared a failure. br>br>Upon closer inspection, I discovered that he had installed a single pole contactor switch rather than the double pole unit he had replaced (and which I had kept). All of the grunt that started the unit each time it cycled was going through two contacts on a single pole, rather than being shared through four contact points on two poles, because the replacement one was burned out at the contact points. br>br>I looked up the original switch online and decided on this one, despite the fact that it was slightly different from the original in terms of how the wires were connected to the switch. Because the technician had clipped the wires' ends, they were now set up for this newer model contactor switch. br>br>Before uninstalling the old switch, I took several photos of it to make sure I knew where all the wires went, and after making sure the unit's power was turned off, I installed this new double contactor switch. The wires made sense once I figured out what they were for, and the switch functions flawlessly. br>br>Excellent value; if you're comfortable with basic wiring, it'll be a breeze. Definitely worth it!.
The quality is extremely poor. After a few months of service, the contactor's internals failed. Even after the compressor has stopped and the cooling temperature has been reached, the fan will not stop spinning. I replaced it with another one I purchased on Amazon, which appears to be functioning properly so far. If the product will not last even a year, I will not recommend it.
The contactor on the outside unit was the source of the problem, according to Trouble. This one not only had the same mounting bracket as the old contactor, but it also had two screw-down main voltage connection points that were much stronger than the old contactor's slide-style terminal ends. After replacing the contactor, I replaced the fuse and reinstalled all of the panels. Since then, everything has been fine.
I understand that relays are relays, but having one in your hand that allows for multiple wiring and mounting options is fantastic. So, if you order a product with the correct coil voltage, maximum load current, and voltage rating, you'll be fine. The published warranty and sealed contact enclosure assembly were key selling points for this product. There will be less dirt and fowl thigs up, and there will be no Arcs and Sparks to worry about. The extra two dollars over the others is well worth it.
It works well, and it appears to be of good quality. It also solved the issue. It only took about 15 minutes to make the switch. In comparison to other brands, the two-year warranty is a plus.
The electric hot water heater was powered by this relay. To cycle the heater, I use a regular timer, which works flawlessly. The only issue I have is that there are no instructions included. It wasn't a problem for me, but it would be for someone who didn't have any electrical experience. For the product, I would recommend it to anyone, but be aware that there are no instructions included.
These relays/contactors have a short lifespan and will almost certainly need to be replaced on your air conditioner. When they begin to buzz quite loudly before total failure, you may receive a warning. This item looks a lot like the many 40A units on the market. It was an exact match for another branded item. So far, everything has gone well.
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