STEPPERONLINE CNC Stepper Motor Driver 1.0-4.2A 20-50VDC 1/128 Micro-Step Resolutions for Nema 17 and 23 Stepper Motor
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When a reluctance, DC, or BLDC motor encounters a higher torque load, it draws more electric current. This isn't the case with stepper motors. The current is controlled by the driver's DIP switches, and it will never exceed the set value. The driver keeps the preset current even when he or she is sitting still. If the load is greater than the available electric power, the magnetic field will be weaker than the torque on the shaft, causing the motor to "skip," as you've probably seen. So, if you connect a 5A motor to this driver, it will work fine. However, you will not get the maximum torque from it at low speeds, and your maximum speed will be reduced as well, because torque is required to accelerate, and your maximum torque is limited. Because it is doing less work, the motor will run cooler than it was designed to. br>br>Running a 5A motor at a speed of 4. 2A is a 16% derating, so while you might be able to measure the drop in performance compared to 5A driver, you might not notice it in operation. You'll probably find that a much larger motor can't run fast enough or produce enough torque to be useful.
Yes, all this does is adjust the current across the stepper motor coils by converting pulses into different voltage pulses. The steps/revolutions of your motor are unimportant to the driver. (microsteps x stepper steps/rev) You can change the number of steps per revolution. If you care about absolute position or have a fixed pulse frequency and want a specific RPM, it is up to the users to convert the number of pulses into motor shaft revolutions.
This controller is made for a motor with a 400 ppr rating. You can also do a lot better than if you try hard enough. By adjusting the switches, you can achieve a 9° resolution. On my mill, I use a half-step or 800 ppr setting. 45 degrees per step Then, for 800 ppr vs 400 ppr, you'll need to make changes to your software or code. I haven't tried it with anything higher than 800 ppr or 1/2 step, so I'm not sure how it will perform in your case.
It might be possible if you wear the right hat.
Selected User Reviews For STEPPERONLINE CNC Stepper Motor Driver 1.0-4.2A 20-50VDC 1/128 Micro-Step Resolutions for Nema 17 and 23 Stepper Motor
These drivers have made a big difference in my life. I purchased three of them to power the two NEMA-sized motors I have. The Y-axis will have 23 steppers. axis, as well as one NEMA-type connector On the X-axis, there are 23 steppers. axis. I switched away from my Smoothieboard clone's built-in drivers, which I suspected were not adequately driving the motors. This motor driver was a lot quieter after I switched it over, and I'm getting consistent results now. However, there have been a few lessons learned along the way. br>br> To begin, there are a few strange wiring suggestions floating around for connecting these to the smoothieboard. The simplest, most obvious solution is to take the 4-pin connector and connect it to the 4-pin connector on the smoothieboard. TTL signals (either 3 or 4) are connected to a straight pin header. Connect each axis to your drivers (at 3V or 5V, depending on how your board is set up). In my case, I began with P0 on the X axis. 4, P2. 0, P0. 5 and GND (using the Smoothieboard pin numbers) and connected GND to all three ENA-connected devices. , DIR- and PUL- P0 is now connected. DIR ; 5 ; DIR ; DIR ; DIR ; P2 is connected. P0, 0 to PUL, 0 to PUL, 0 to PUL, PUL, PUL, PUL ENA receives a score of four out of five. br>br>The br>br>The br>br>The four br> A, A-, A-, A-, A-, A-, A-, A-, A-, A-, and A B, B-, B-, B-, B-, B-, B- , and I fed power to the power inputs directly from my 24V DC power supply. br>br>The switch settings are a little perplexing. The Smoothieboard will be set to 16 or 32 microsteps depending on your preference. 6400 steps per revolution is the entry in the switch setting table for 32 microsteps. To find your switch settings, disregard the 400, 800, and 1600 numbers and instead focus on the microsteps. My motors have a 2 amp peak current. As a result, I chose 8A as the current source. br>br>In the Smoothieware config, there is only one change you need to make. It's necessary to invert the pin setting for direction. Simply add! after that (for the X axis, also known as alpha): alpha_dir_pin 0 alpha_dir_pin 0 alpha_dir_pin 0 alpha_dir_pin br>br>This must be done for each axis motor that this driver unit is controlling. br>br>In the Smoothieware configuration, the default value for microseconds_per_step_pulse is 1 microsecond, which appears to be too short for this driver. According to my oscilloscope, it's actually just right. It adds up to about 3-percentage points. Smoothieware settings should not be changed because this driver triggers at 4 microseconds and on the leading edge. You only need to connect the inputs in series if you have dual Y axis motors. The motors should be connected in the same way they were when they were connected directly to the Smoothieboard, which frequently results in them turning in opposite directions. P2 is what I'm looking for in my situation. On each of the two P0 drivers, 1 is assigned to PUL. P0 to DIR, 11 to DIR (which must be inverted in the config file). ENA receives 10 points, while PUL- receives GND. , DIR- and ENA- on both of the drivers br>br>For the power connector, do not use the GND from the signal header. Your power supply should provide both the 24V and the ground. br>br>Basically, I should have done this when I was putting my CNC together in the first place. These are good drivers for the money. There are reportedly a number of low-cost knockoffs available, but I would still purchase these.
I'm sharing the first photo in the hopes that it will be useful to others. I bought this unit with the intention of using it with a device I designed to measure a person's eyes from a distance of 8 feet or more (see second photo). I couldn't fit it into the design of this product, so I took a different route and returned it.
On my Geckodrive-driven CNC router, I added a fourth axis, but the Geckos only do ten microsteps per full step, which wasn't enough resolution to accurately divide the rotational axis, which had only three gears. I was able to get enough resolution to make this driver work by running it at 25,000 microsteps per revolution or 125 microsteps per full step. The driver is just as smooth as the Geckos, which are the best I've tried so far. Now I can tell my 4th axis to rotate 360 degrees, and it will actually rotate 360 degrees instead of 359. 5 or 360. Because the Geckos have a lower resolution, this was happening to them. Furthermore, this drive clearly incorporates some of the anti-resonance measures found in the Geckos; despite their apparent simplicity, steppers are finicky beasts to drive well, and this board nail it. br>br>Based on how quickly this driver spins the steppers, it appears to be similar to the Geckos, with the speed range changing from microsteps to full steps at some point as it progresses. br>br>I tried one of the cheaper TBA something or other drives, and it made the motors noisy and lost steps to the point where I thought my machine was mechanically broken and spent days checking, tightening, and adjusting everything. This is something I wish I had purchased first.
I bought a cheap driver for my NEMA 23 upgrade, but it got extremely hot (50C) and made the motor extremely noisy. Yes, it was NEMA 23 rated, but it had a slew of issues. So I decided to go with the name brand that matched the motor, and despite the fact that it cost three times as much, this driver is incredible. It has a microstepping range of 1/128 instead of the usual 1/16 maximum and does not get hot. You will require at least 20 minutes. I used a 24V power supply to power it because it required 50V. I didn't realize this until after I received the unit and had to order a 24V supply, but it was well worth the extra effort! I would strongly suggest it.
The device works flawlessly, but I'm not sure why the signal screw terminals are split into two holes (2 and 4), while the power and motor terminals are a straight 6. With multiple stepper motors, it was easier to simply unplug one from the driver, swap in another, unplug the signal plug, and connect to a different uC, all while keeping the same power cable. I now have motors with power cables attached to each one, as well as a useless two-piece section attached to my uCs due to the fact that I can't fit a straight six into it. I'm curious as to why that decision was made. Why would being able to unplug the enable signal terminals rather than the power and ground be more useful?.
A great deal more strength. I tried a different (cheaper, from someone else) driver, but the motor was extremely loud and lacked power. br>br>I bought this driver (DM542T) and installed it in the same location with the same hardware and software, and the difference is incredible. It's driving a 4 amp NEMA 23 stepper, so it's a lot more powerful, almost silent (for a stepper motor), and no muss, no fuss. The only change I made was to set a couple of the setting switches to the values required by my stepper.
These drivers have taken the place of my cheapo TB6600 drivers. What a difference it makes. It was well worth the money. My engines will most likely last longer. I'm no longer losing steps. The limit switches are now literally clicking in my ears. You won't believe these are the same motors because they're so quiet. You'd think the motors had been upgraded. If you have TB6600 drivers and are considering switching, this is the article for you. Do it! You will not be dissatisfied with your purchase.
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