Aqua-Rite Thermistor AS32 2R025.( Pack of 2) Inrush Current Limiter 2 Ohm Ohm ±25% 1.18" (30mm)
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Yes, this will work with your board, which may or may not have SL32 or AS32 installed depending on its age. The AS32, on the other hand, is a more up-to-date and robust component that can be used in either scenario. When someone needs to replace a thermistor, I always advise them to upgrade to the AS32. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us. Keno, thank you very much.
They're not the same. You may have the AS32 or the SL32 depending on the AquaRite board model. The pins are different and cannot be interchanged, as someone else has mentioned.
Although there was no UL mark on the item, I installed it myself and it worked fine; however, I'm not sure if Underwriters Laboratories tests parts within a circuit.
Selected User Reviews For Aqua-Rite Thermistor AS32 2R025.( Pack of 2) Inrush Current Limiter 2 Ohm Ohm ±25% 1.18" (30mm)
My Aqua- The rite salt generator system had stopped working. It would start for 10 seconds before failing. The green light that indicated "Generating" would turn off. The thermistor was suggested as a possible source of the problem in an online post. The best part was how simple it was to test it: simply remove the front cover to gain access to the motherboard, then squeeze the disc front and back together with your fingers (it looks like a black quarter-sized disc). If the unit continues to work while you squeeze it, there is a problem. In order to replace the thermistor, you'll need a soldering iron and solder sucker. When I removed the old thermistor, it was split in half, which is why squeezing it brought it back to life. You'll also need previous soldering experience.
The salt chlorine generator on our AquaRite has stopped working. The most common problem, according to online research, is that the Termistor has failed. To get to the board, I opened up the generator and discovered that it was completely rusted. I took down the part number (it could be AS32, but it could also be another number, and I'm not sure if they're interchangeable, so double-check before ordering). The following day, these arrived! br>br>Be sure to turn off the power before removing the board! Then touch a large metal object, such as the pool filter or your air conditioning unit, to ground yourself. Then, carefully unplug all of the wires (they may be rusted, so wiggle them out slowly). ) Once you've got the board out, try not to touch any of the components by holding it to the side. Position the board so that you can get to the bottom of it without damaging any of the other components when desoldering. I used a small paper box to support mine. br>br>However, because the old solder was difficult to remove, it took an hour to desolder the old part. Be patient and keep adding small dabs of new solder to aid in the removal of the old solder. Use the largest tip available on a soldering pen with various tips. br>br>Once you've soldered the part back in, put the board back into the unit with the same care. Replace all of the wires (it's simple because they're all labeled with different colors). ) Restart the computer, and voila! It worked for the second time. In exchange for $12 and an hour of my time, I will give you an hour of my time.
This product has a lot of positive feedback and could be a good fit for a lot of people. The SL32 2R025 Thermistor on my AquaRite PCB needed to be replaced, so I bought it. It's important to note that this product is an "AS32" rather than an "SL32. " According to online research, this is a superior product that can be used in place of the SL32. The pin sizes and spacing, on the other hand, are vastly different. If I don't drill through the circuit board and bend the pins, I won't be able to mount it to my PCB. If you're using this with an Aquarite board and your thermistor is the SL32 type, this isn't a viable option.
After only 13 months, Cell 15 had deteriorated. It doesn't use any energy. I've had this system for 15 years and am familiar with how the cells fall off and go bad over time, but it just died this time. But. I got a new one under warranty (which was a pain with Hayward, to say the least), BUT GUESS WHAT? It was ineffective as well! As a result, I decided to double-check. br>br>I ohmed through this dreaded thermistor and discovered it was set to 4 degrees Celsius. 4 ohms. However, it should be tested at 2 or 2 ohms. 2 max. It wasn't burned, though; there was some scorching on the fiberglass circuit board beneath it, as well as a small burn on one of the relay leads. So. I'm not out anything, and it appears that I'll need a new AquaRite controller board, so why not try these first? br>br>Well, guess what? That was the end of it! It was a cinch to use! I just desoldered and resoldered one in, and BAM, I was back in business after a reset to get the instant salinity right. br>br>So, if your cell dies and the controller continues to malfunction, don't give up until you've troubleshooted the controller.
It would have cost me $1,000 to buy a new board every time. 00+. As others have stated, a soldering iron with a minimum power of 40 watts is required. To remove the old Thermistor, I used wire snips to cut off the Thermistor, leaving as much of the leg as possible. I hung the PC board between two 2x4s with the vice grips hanging down and attached a small pair of vice grips to one of the legs. I used a solder sucker to remove the melted solder after heating it. The weight of the vice grips pulled the pin out through the PC board once enough solder had melted, leaving a hole for me to solder in the new Thermistor. Remove the second leg in the same manner. Using a small pair of needle nose pliers, bend a zig-zag pattern on the new Thermistor. zigzag on each leg as close to the Thermistor as possible. As a result, when you replace the Thermistor, it will be properly spaced above the PC board, as indicated by the zig-zag pattern. The zig will act as a stop to keep the Thermistor up and away from the PC Board; keep the spare Thermistor in the plastic zip lock bag inside the control box so you can find it the next time it goes out.
It does, in fact, solve the problem. The "green light turns off" fix for the motherboard issue with the Aqua Rite salt generator. It's not difficult, but you'll need a soldering iron with a large anvil or chisel head to do it. The Little Irons, a 25-minute film It's not going to happen with 35 watts of power. To reach your melting point, you must first heat a large piece of metal. After an hour of trying out my little 30 watt that I'd had since I was a kid, I went with the Weller heavy duty 80 watt. It took the weller two minutes to get through it. Done. I made it the rest of the way thanks to internet videos. My system now functions as it did when I first bought it.
br>When the control unit for my Aquarite Chlorine Generator stopped working (no power light), I purchased a new controller system. That was a pricey lesson, to say the least! I replaced the part on the board after learning that it was nearly always this part that "wore out," and it worked flawlessly for about three years! This is the second time I've replaced a Thermosistor, and the control unit works perfectly! I only wish I had known about this part when I first replaced the controller!.
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