Ametherm SL32 1R030 (Pack of 2) NTC Thermistor, SG379 HVAC, Inrush Current Limiter 1 Ohm Ohm ±20% 1.18" (30mm)

$xxxx vs. 00 Repair code 00. On a hot day, my HVAC unit stopped working, and when I opened the service cover on the front of the unit, I noticed that the main PCB was flashing the LED in a four-step pattern. There is only one style. A problem with the blower motor was indicated by this pattern. With the 4-digit code, I completely searched the internet for my HVAC unit. 1 code, which pointed to a common issue with this unit: a failure of the inrush current limiting Thermistor in the electronic control module (ECM) that is bolted to the blower motor. The GE 2 was installed in my motor. 5th version of the ECM, which still has some replaceable parts (although some of the newer stuff is sealed in resin). When I disassembled it, I discovered that the Thermistor had been burned and had shattered when I touched it. To replace it, I ordered it from Amazon (which took a long time because of CoVID). I partially removed the outer circuit board in the ECM and was able to unsolder the burnt Thermistor and replace it with the new part, then reassembled the whole mess, and my HVAC is now working again, with no longer any trouble codes 4-. br>br>The repair cost $10. The ECM, or the ECM and motor, will be replaced by HVAC professionals. A four-digit repair bill would be the result. This repair is simple and will save you a lot of money if you have some soldering skills and basic hand tools. Check the status of this part in your unit; if it's bad, try the $10 fix before replacing the entire motor. br>br>Remember to turn off the blower motor for at least ten minutes. Remove it from the power for 15 minutes after turning it off. That will allow the capacitors in the ECM to fully discharge before you disassemble it, preventing you from being zapped. I've included some pictures.

Wynter Cowan

| May 29, 2021

If you're looking for this item and reading this review, it's most likely because your heating or cooling system has broken down. I'm also guessing you discovered your furnace fan wasn't spinning and that everything else appeared to be in working order. You most likely removed the furnace fan and began dismantling it; if you're lucky, you removed the motor module that is connected to the fan and discovered something similar to the image I've attached. Yes, all you have to do now is desolder the exploded part and solder in a new one, and you'll be back in business and save about $1000 over having an HVAC technician come in and replace the motor and module when the motor is fine and all the module needs is a new one of these. P. br>br>P. br>br>P. br>br>P. I'm also assuming you're well-versed in electricity and possess the necessary tools and skills to complete this task. Thank you for your interest.

Dorothy Bell

| Oct 22, 2021

This was my second time replacing a thermistor. The first one, which had gone bad in 2014, appeared to be charred. It was only a 20 amp thermistor that had to be replaced after nearly four years of service. It was recently seen and did not appear to be in poor condition. Continuity testing, on the other hand, revealed that it was ineffective. According to a question answered on Amazon for the 1R020 thermistor, my 3/4 HP motor may require this 30 amp thermistor. It's possible that the 20 amps are only for a 1/2 HP motor. The 1ROnn in the description, where nn is the amp rating, can be used to determine the thermistor amp rating. This product, a new 30 amp thermistor that I installed a few days ago, is performing admirably. Fortunately, both burnouts occurred in the summer, rather than during our winters, when we would have lost the blower. Hopefully, this new thermistor will last for many years of both AC and heating use. Use of the furnace.

Sutton Santana

| Jun 24, 2021

If you have a Trane XV80 gas furnace (part of an HVAC system) with a Variable Speed Blower Fan unit and the fan does not turn on even when the heat stage is turned on, the Inrush Current Limiter (i. e. Electronic Control Module (ECM) with NTC Thermistor br>The ECM is connected to the motor of the Variable Speed Blower Fan unit. I'm a first-time visitor. To remove the ECM, I had to remove the entire blower unit, which was not as difficult as I had anticipated. Two wiring harness connectors connected to the ECM must be removed with caution. Then, take out the main circuit board as well as the door safety switch. I only had to disconnect two wires from the sensor attached to the blower unit body inside the furnace housing in my case. The rest of the wires and harnesses that were connected to the main circuit board remained in place. When these two items are carefully removed from the furnace body and placed to the side, space is made available to access the main blower unit body. The top part of the blower body connects to the furnace frame with two bolts. To fit the blower unit body into the small opening, a solid object must be placed underneath it. As a result, when the two bolts are removed, the blower unit body does not immediately drop down. Remove the two bolts that hold the blower body to the top part of the unit. Remove the body of the blower. To avoid electrical shock, wait 5 to 10 minutes before removing the ECM from the motor body to allow the current to discharge. Remove two long bolts from the ECM unit, which is connected to the motor inside the blower unit. Unscrew the green circuit board from the ECM once the ECM has been removed. On the circuit board, look for a round dime-sized disc-like part called a "thermistor" that may be burned or fried. This damaged thermistor will need to be unsoldered and replaced with an Ametherm SL32 1R030 thermistor. The SG348 is a 48 joule inrush current limiter with a 1 ohm resistance, 16 amps, and a 1 ohm resistance. The Ametherm SL32 1R030 is a 30 amp, 160 joule inrush current limiter with a 1 ohm resistance. The SG348's ratings are met or exceeded by the SL32 1R030. According to Ametherm, SL32 1R030 is a suitable substitute for SG348. This was confirmed by an engineer from Ametherm. br>Total repair cost was $30 ($10 for parts, $20 for new soldering iron kit) vs. $500 to $1000 with a local HVAC company who would simply replace the ECM or the entire blower motor. The removal, repair, and reinstallation of the main blower unit took about 3 hours, and the furnace is now fully operational. This was my first attempt at doing the above repair work, and the furnace is now fully operational. Only attempt this type of work if you are knowledgeable and at your own risk. Btw, my XV80 furnace is 18 years old and this part failed for the first time. I am not responsible for the content of this review. This is strictly for information purposes.

Onyx Espinoza

| Jan 30, 2021

My furnace's blower has stopped working twice in the last few years. Once in the heating mode, and then again in the cooling mode. This was the solution both times, rather than replacing the much more expensive ECM on the back of my Goodman GMNTE120-A variable speed motor. It was a fairly simple fix. Remove the ECM from the motor by pulling the blower assembly. Open the ECM, locate the burned one on the circuit board, and replace it with this one.

Rylan White

| Dec 14, 2021