Ametherm SL32 2R025 NTC Thermistor
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Yes - The AS, on the other hand, has different, heavier leads (which may or may not fit through PCB holes) and is designed to withstand a higher power surge before sacrificially failing. The AS version has the same ambient resistance as the SL version, as well as the same very low resistance at 25A. The circuit functions in the same way. After large power spikes, such as lightning strikes, it is said to fail less frequently. (As well as being more costly.)
Selected User Reviews For Ametherm SL32 2R025 NTC Thermistor
My Aqua Rite Goldline AQR salt chlorine generator broke down, just like the other reviewers'. The "power" and "generating" lights were both out of commission. I first checked the fuse and made sure the panel had power, but the top two indicator lights (power and generating lights) remained dark. In addition, my pool became green due to a lack of chlorine. I decided to try replacing the thermistor (as I had seen on YouTube and read in the comments here). While I'm generally handy, I'm not familiar with replacing electronic components from a circuit board, so I watched a couple of soldering and desoldering videos on YouTube and bought a cheap soldering iron and some solder. After removing the circuit board (which is simple - see below), The wires come in a variety of colors. The board is well-coded and coded. I gave it a shot after marking it (and taking a few photos just in case). The thermistor was removed and replaced in about 15 minutes total. It wasn't too difficult; I simply reinstalled the circuit board and reconnected the power, and everything was fine. The lights on the generator and the power were both turned on. The best part (of course) is that my green pool is now blue and clean. I'm not sure how long this new thermistor will last (the original only lasted about 4 years), but if it fails, I'll just keep replacing them until the circuit board fails completely. I'm glad I took a chance on this. I saved a lot of money, and now I'm confident that if this problem arises again, I'll be able to resolve it.
The Aqua Rite controller's LEDs and power went out, but the LCD display continued to show numbers. After a little digging, I discovered where this thermistor had been replaced to restore functionality. br>br>The old one had some heat stress (measured open), but it hadn't completely burned away. br>br>This part has the same part number as the previous one, but the lead spacing differs slightly. To make them fit, simply bend them a little. Much better than spending close to $200 to replace the entire board!br>br>You'll need a good solder gun or a high-wattage iron.
This is most likely the issue if your Swimpure appears to be working but the green "generating" light goes out after a few seconds of operation. During normal use, this part gets very hot, and it will fail after a few seasons. Mine was only five years old. br>br>This can be replaced by anyone with basic tools and a basic understanding of mechanics. Just remember to turn off the power before you start, and keep in mind that a typical 40-watt light bulb can consume up to 40 watts of energy. pencil wattage- I used a 150 Watt soldering iron, but a 100W would probably suffice. A solder remover tool, if you have one, is also very useful. br>br>I saved at least $450 by replacing this part myself. So, while you're at it, go ahead and invest in a solder vacuum tool.
Instead, I had to pay $4 for this little guy. 23 as well as a few others With the help of my soldering iron, I was able to get myself and my family back into our salt-water pool one time. It also got me kicked out of our neighborhood pool store for using inappropriate language and causing a disturbance.
The only issue is that it turned green as soon as I moved it. I began my investigation because I did not want to pay $150 for a pool company to come out. I was out of ideas after a day or two when I came across a YouTube video showing the current limiter on the unit being burned out. Sure enough, after I dismantled it, it was crumbling to bits. br>br>So I got this part, pulled out my soldering iron, and about 30 minutes later, the pool was filled with that sweet, sweet algae-killing chlorine once more. I also saved $500 by not having to buy a new unit. Just over $6, plus a few curse words about how much I despise soldering.
I bought this to replace the board on my Hayward AquaRite chlorinator, just like so many others here. I was on my second board at the time, and it only lasted three seasons. Instead of spending $400 on a new board, I decided to try this $5 fix first. br>br>I tried to remove the old thermistor by heating the solder points with my iron and pulling the wires out. Because I couldn't get the existing solder to melt, I had to disassemble the old thermistor, trim the wires as close to the board as possible, and drill new holes in the board to mount the new thermistor. The new holes worked perfectly, and I soldered everything together and installed the board; everything was fine, and I now have a spare thermistor in case it fails again in a few years.
The pool became filthy and greenish as the power and generating lights were left turned off. After doing some research on Google and YouTube, I discovered that removing the circuit board from the box and inspecting the back of it reveals a 'burned' or brown-looking area where the current limiter is soldered. I searched for this part online and had it delivered overnight after seeing it in the videos. I purchased a 30 watt soldering iron from Radio Shack and was able to un-solder all of the wires. Replace the current limiter that was previously soldered. It took about an hour or less to remove and replace the board from the box. It's a fairly simple task that only cost $40 versus $400 for a new circuit board!.
You'll need soldering tools, but it's not difficult if you've never done it before. It's funny that no pool guys mention this trick; if I find one who does, I'll use them and refer a lot of people to them, but I guess they think we're all made of money.
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