Kutzall Extreme Ball Nose Burr, 1⁄8" Shaft, Very Coarse - Woodworking Attachment for Dremel, Foredom, DeWalt, Milwaukee. Abrasive Tungsten Carbide, 1⁄4" (6.3mm) Dia. X 1⁄2" (12.7mm) Length, BNX-14-EC
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Using a wire brush, similar to the one you'd use to clean your hand files. It will take a little more effort if the wood is burned in. Best wishes to you. It will be beneficial to work less aggressively in the future.
Yes, a Dremel can accommodate this.
It's made of carbide, so it'll cut through tile, but I'm afraid it'll clog up quickly on tile.
All of the coatings are made of tungsten carbide, with the exception of the Kutzall Extreme Coating (black burrs), which is a little more aggressive due to the open-ended design. Because of the spacing between the teeth, materials that are wet or gummy are more difficult to load up. On harder woods, the Kutzall Original Coatings (silver and gold burrs) are a little smoother to work with and aren't quite as aggressive.
Selected User Reviews For Kutzall Extreme Ball Nose Burr, 1⁄8" Shaft, Very Coarse - Woodworking Attachment for Dremel, Foredom, DeWalt, Milwaukee. Abrasive Tungsten Carbide, 1⁄4" (6.3mm) Dia. X 1⁄2" (12.7mm) Length, BNX-14-EC
I'm working on a job where I'm removing and replacing about 400 lineal feet of baseboard and replacing it with new black baseboard, and I'd like to cope the inside corner joints, which I counted at 28. 45-degree miters never work properly, walls are never square or plumb, and wood trim moves around with changes in humidity. Inside corners with 45 degree miters will have visible gaps, especially if the trim is black. I don't like or use filler, and I prefer tight, non-popping joints - Coping is the only proper option. br>br>Cutting a complex baseboard properly and quickly can be a real pain, so many finish trim installers use simple trim profiles for that purpose. Use a cheap fret saw to make the cuts, then slam it in and finish the job. Not me. Using a Foredom TX flexible shaft tool, a power miter saw, and a Japanese back saw, I was able to carve out the complex profile of the trim I'm using quickly and accurately (see photos). In about 5 minutes, I can make the coped profile you see for each inside corner using those tools. Even with my Knew Concepts fret saw (a high-end brand name fret saw that costs around $110), cutting the top curve accurately and quickly is nearly impossible. br>br>This small carbide bit cuts the top round profile perfectly and also works well on flat areas, and it's a LOT faster and more accurate than a hand fret saw. The nice thing about this carbide bit is that if it gets clogged with wood and slows down the cut, I just burn the wood debris out with a propane torch (manufacturer recommended technique) and the bit is clean and ready to use again. br>br>The photos are test cuts I made before I started installing the trim, and the fresh black paint is to emphasize the trim profile. I used a coarse carbide bit, which is the perfect balance of speed and control for white pine trim work. I hope this information is useful.
The previous owner was apparently stoned when he attempted to replace the door knobs. Amoeba-like organisms were discovered. When I removed the world's ugliest door knobs, I made shaped holes in the door. A hole saw couldn't be used because the amoeba holes were so random. After determining where the center of the latch needed to be, I used this little burr on my Dremel to work outwards, focusing only on the areas that needed to be enlarged. Yes, they're still amoeba holes, but they're bigger amoeba holes with a lot nicer hardware. br>br>The Kutzall burr outperformed any of my Dremel bits by a factor of a million, which is a big deal. It easily chewed through the wood, leaving a relatively clean edge behind. My Dremel was set to the lowest speed. The shank did not bend, and the teeth did not become dull. I've done nine doors now, and the burr is still as sharp as it was when I first got it. I wish Kutzall would make a larger burr for a 1/8" shank, but that may not be possible. This one worked fine, but it was a little slow in comparison to the much larger 1/4" shank models.
This Dremel burr bit was purchased to dress up the edge of a live edge slab of elm that I used as a coffee table top. br>br>It was a challenge to make the pattern appear completely random, but I liked the end result because the bit cut into the wood cleanly and without leaving any signs of burning. br>br>Right now, the only issue I'm having is that the bit collects sawdust over time, which I assume will eventually cause the bit to burn (rather than cleanly cut) the wood. I'm not sure how I'm going to clean it for future projects, but it worked great for this one. Any tips on how to clean the bit would be greatly appreciated. br>br> thanks.
Kutzall advertises its products as being long-lasting. That is not the case in my opinion. The products work for a while, but the rasps (I also used a fret saw blade) are abrasive and don't last very long when used with wood. I cut a slot in a turned wooden bowl for a yarn bowl with an air tool and this rasp. It was made of ash and only lasted two small bowls. The slots were probably under 12" long when they were all put together. I'm going to see if a diamond-coated rasp or a steel rotary tool will work better. I'm afraid I can't give this product more than a one-star rating. off tool.
I know it says "Tool diameters are approximate and do not include the thickness of the coating," but I didn't expect it to be about 2 mm larger! A tenth or two of a percent variation would be a good approximation. Nice burr, but totally ineffective for me because the size is approximately 65% larger than advertised. That's a significant difference that should've been reflected more accurately. To be more specific, the shaft diameter is perfect, but the tungsten-coated burr head is about 5 mm wide rather than approx. As stated, the thickness is 1 mm. If you need a burr with a 5 mm wide head, this is a good option that should last a long time.
There isn't a better burr for roughing out your overall shape than this one. Tupelo and cedar wood are both eaten by this creature. I've also tried it with green walnuts, and it worked well. These items are more expensive than other options, but I believe that everyone should have a couple of them. My second attempt at carving anything was depicted above.
The only thing that has changed after about 12 hours of work on a piece of Bluejack oak is that the blackening has come off. It's still razor-sharp as it was when I first received it. This purchase has left me with no regrets, and it still has a lot of life in it.
This is a fantastic tool. To avoid kinking a cable that had to be run through the holes, I needed to radius the exits of several holes I had drilled. These worked much faster than some cheap bits I had bought previously, which simply burned the wood. These are fantastic instruments. It was well worth the money!.