AP Products 001-SP213ACC Spray Adhesive - 13 fl. oz.

SP2 is one of the few adhesives on the market that does not melt EPS foam, so the direct answer to your question is no. Please read on if you want a more detailed explanation. br>br>I don't usually respond to these questions, but I've worked with EPS foam before and understand how frustrating it can be to find glue for it. I'm the plant manager for one of the Midwest's largest Architectural Precast and Cast Stone manufacturers, and I've been banging my head against the wall for long enough to have a unique perspective on the subject. My mold shop produces somewhere between 50 and 100 million pieces per year. To give you an idea of scale, we make 350 molds per day with two 12'x15' CNC mills and three 20x20' CNC hot wires running all day. What I've discovered is as follows. If you're on my scale or smaller, there are only three products worth considering in the world of EPS foam adhesives (regardless of density). All of them have a good grip. None of them have the ability to dissolve foam. All are viable options from a financial standpoint (at least for me).br>br>Sta'- (SP2) - (SP2) (SP2) (SP2) (SP2) (SP br>pros = 1) long working time (over an hour) 2) forgiving if you need to adjust 3) available on the market 4) adequate adhesion 5) quick and convenientbr>cons = 1) least strong of the three 2) expensive 3) applicator tip tends to clog up (so don't toss with can! )br>br>3M 78 - 3M 79 - 3M 79 - 3M 79 - 3M 79 - 3 cons = 1) not as forgiving as SP2 2) difficult to find especially during covid 3) 10 minute working timebr>br>West Systems marine epoxy systems(206 hardener[slow], 105 resin) Without investing in very elaborate and expensive high pressure plural component sprayer systems this is my go-to if I need to glue EPS and it needs to stay. This is the carpenters glue of the EPS world, which means that the glue bond is stronger than the foam (until densities above 5 pounds). It can also be used to adhere EPS to any other surface - glass or gleaming metal, for example br>br>pros = 1) permanent bond to ANY substrate 2) plenty of working time/forgiving (slow hardener gives you about 30-45 minutes of work time) In 45 minutes, you'll have a complete cure, and it'll only take four days 6 hours) 3) can roll large areas with paint roller(i believe you can push it through an airless too, but i have never had to try that)br>cons = 1) expensive 2) hard to find (marine supply stores like 'west marine' have them) 3) basically you're waiting for full adhesion overnight br>br>best of luck!

No, that isn't a good choice for that situation. I would use 3M 77 or 3M 90 spray adhesive for a quick fix, and west systems Apoxsee, which works great as an adhesive, the 105 resin, and the 206 Hardner for an application that gets mild to moderate water saturation. This gives you a two-hour working time and a cure time of one night. And for applications that need to be completely waterproof and permanent, I use West Marine 5200 adhesive, which is an under-the-waterline sealant designed for boats with hole damage that require a permanent fix. It comes in a tube and is extremely simple to use. Good luck

I couldn't find the date on the can, but it didn't hold the wood to the stryofoam like it was supposed to. It was costly, and we had simply squandered our funds!

West Marine 5200 is something I'd look into. I'm not sure if it prevents polycarbonate from forming, but it binds to almost anything. It's a permanent sealant for marine vessels that goes below the waterline. It's tough stuff; you'll have to check the technical data sheet to see if it'll work with that material, but I'm guessing it will.