Senville SENL-09CD Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump, 9000 BTU 19 SEER 110/120V
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Yes, to all of your questions, but the manufacturer warns that if you don't vacuum the lines before releasing the gas, you'll get an air lock, which, ironically, won't show up right away but will appear later. The manufacturer's warranty is also void if there is no bill from a licensed air conditioning technician indicating the work was completed. The unit comes with 15 or 25 feet of insulated copper, but handle it carefully because it will twist and kink inside the insulation, rendering the unit useless. (I experienced this) - We had warranty work done on a couple of control modules, but everything has been fine since then. You can still buy the parts if you don't have warranty, but you'll have to troubleshoot everything yourself. Installation of parts is not included in any warranty, even if you have one. However, when compared to the cost of installation in your area, it's still a good deal. It can be difficult to find a technician willing to assist with the installation of these third-party devices. I hope this provides you with more information than you require. The communication cable between the two units must be purchased separately; I believe it was a four-wire conductor, which can be found at most electrical and hardware stores.
The 12,000 BTW (120vac) unit was installed by me. Eazy Peazy is a song by the band Eazy Peazy. On the outdoor unit, I installed a 120v outdoor outlet and used a 10 gauge 120v cord. For a few dollars, I rented a vacuum pump. The setup went perfectly. I'll be putting in more of these in the near future. Don't let anyone convince you that this isn't a do-it-yourself project. On YouTube University, there are numerous installation videos for Mini Split HVAC systems. I watched a few and it helped me complete the installation much more quickly and without issues.
A Senville wired thermostat can be connected to the system, yes. If compatibility is not specified, third-party thermostats will not work.
The outdoor condenser serves as the source of energy for the indoor air handler. Only the main power supply needs to be connected to the condenser.
Selected User Reviews For Senville SENL-09CD Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump, 9000 BTU 19 SEER 110/120V
It is extremely quiet both inside and out, consumes very little electricity, and is powered by 110 volts, making it simple to connect to power. It will necessitate the installation of some specialized HVAC tools. br>Copper line flare tool ($30)br>Copper line cutter ($10)br>R410a gauge/servicing set ($50)br>Vacuum pump ($50)br>Torque wrench set (open crescent, not socket)br>R410a gauge/servicing set ($50)br>Vacuum pump ($50)br>Torque wrench set (open crescent, not socket).
This is a first impression of the product after it has been installed. It took about six hours for two people to complete the installation. br>br>I live on the shores of Lake Huron in Michigan. In my man cave, which is a detached structure with a garage and a 700-square-foot finished living area, I'm using the LETO 24000 BTU mini split. When I installed the unit, the temperature outside was just below freezing. It quickly heated the space once it was up and running. My electric bill is due next month, and I'm looking forward to seeing it. I increased my monthly bill by about $100 by using a space heater and a portable air conditioner. That's something I'm hoping to see less of. br>br>This listing could have been more useful if it had included a checklist of all items required for installation. While I understand that an electrician and HVAC professional should install the system, it's still helpful to know what components are required. br>br>In addition to the mini split package, I needed to buy a breaker for the main panel, wire to run power from the panel to the exterior disconnect, a whip to connect the condenser to the disconnect, several cable clamps, straps for hanging the electrical and vacuum lines on the outside of the building, a vacuum port adapter, and caulk and spray foam to fill in any holes that were drilled. br>br>The install manual isn't overly complicated, but it also doesn't go into great detail. br>br>I also purchased the optional wall mount, but not the optional exterior duct. br>br> It's a generic manual that could be applied to a variety of mini splits. br>br>According to the installation manual, the hole saw used to run the power and vacuum lines through the wall should be at least 2. 5”. However, the install kit includes a 4" wall sleeve as an option. In retrospect, I should have probably drilled the 2nd hole. I didn't use the sleeve because the hole was only 5" in diameter. I used blown-in insulation to fill the sleeve. br>br>While hanging the head was simple, routing the power and control lines through it was not. You'll need a wire clamp, which isn't included and isn't recommended in the instructions. If you're using the 3/4" whip, you'll need a drill bit to ream the hole where the condenser's power is connected. br>br>The lines connected to the head unit have been charged and sealed. The installation kit's vacuum lines, on the other hand, are not charged. Fortunately, I have an HVAC friend who had the compressor and gauges on hand. The vacuum adapter was something we had to buy. br>br>If the length of the vacuum lines included in the install kit needs to be adjusted, a flaring tool may be required. Before you flare, don't forget to fasten the nuts. br>br>I'll go over the optional exterior wall mount I purchased separately on Amazon in a bit more detail. Check the length of the bracket that attaches to the exterior wall, as well as the positions of the holes, as I was only able to hit two studs. Before attaching the condenser to the wall, make sure you measure the position of the condenser's feet and the spacing of the hanging brackets. It's not brain surgery, but if you don't plan ahead of time, it can be aggravating. br>br>After I've used the unit for a while, I'll post an update with more information on how to use it and how much it costs to run.
Every time, they promise to assist and will contact me with a plan later. There was never a call back. I'm at a loss for what to do.
You'll need a full AC power inverter setup, but with a run consumption of less than 1000 watts, this unit is very practical.
When I remodeled my master bath, I installed this in my master bedroom. I mounted it on the inside of a wall and ran the lineset through it to the outside, where my other condensors are. With the fan on low, it's very quiet, and it helps to keep our master bedroom at a comfortable temperature. It was necessary for me to purchase the recommended adapter for connecting a standard gauge set. I pumped down the lineset and evaporator for about 30 minutes with the valve core removed, then tested the pressure with compressed air before evacuating again (with the valve core installed) and charging the lineset with 410a as a final check before opening the service valves. I also purchased a small bottle of nylog, which I read is useful in preventing slow leaks on the lineset's four flare type fittings. I dabbed it on all four fittings' sealing surfaces. br>br>I suppose an inexperienced DIY installer could get away without using a vacuum pump by simply cracking the service valves and purging the lines with a little of the included 410a, but this is not a legal practice and could leave the unit low on freon (as well as exposing it to moisture issues in the lines and evaporator). )br>br>I bought some vibration isolation feet and mounted the condensor on brackets I bought on Amazon. Because I didn't have the feet when I installed it, I just threw in a couple of bolts and secured the condensor to the brackets with cable ties for the initial test; the thing is so quiet and smooth that I didn't need the vibration isolation feet. Both the Senville unit and the aftermarket brackets I purchased came with rubber pads, but I couldn't see how they would fit or be useful. The bolt holes did line up, but the holes are quite large, and the mating surfaces of the condensor and brackets are not flat, so the fit isn't particularly attractive. To secure it, you'll need washers. The photos depict the current state of the project, and I intend to add more insulation to the lineset before taping and sealing it. I coiled some extra length outside by the unit so that I could move it around in the future if necessary. I didn't want it too close to the outlet or inlet of my larger nearby condensors, because I didn't want to breathe or feed preheated air to the other units. br>I ran the condensate line through the wall in PVC and left the connection to it inside a bathroom closet behind the evaporator in case it needed to be cleared or flushed with bleach.
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