ERP GR403 Gas Range Oven Igniter
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Thanks for your question. Hello,*br>thanks for your question. You are correct, part number WB2X9154 is a compatible replacement for the part you are inquiring about.
My oven just broke too, but I replaced it with an XL44 model.
Comparison of your old one and the picture may be sufficient, but I cannot guarantee it. An example of a bracket is size. As long as they look similar, you should be able to make it
I had no problem starting my Kenmore with the igniter no. We are WB13K0003. To use an old electrical connector, it had to be wired up similarly. Soldering the connection and applying the wire nut worked well for me.
Selected User Reviews For ERP GR403 Gas Range Oven Igniter
Yesterday morning I discovered that my oven had broken. A copy of it has been ordered. A delivery was made on On January 21, we celebrate Martin Luther King Jr. , Day. It was more difficult than I expected to replace the computer. As I needed to remove heat shields on the bottom to access the screws on the igniter, I needed to remove the heat shields. You will find two screws on the front of the heat shield if you have a GE XL44. Remove the screw that is inside the front of the cabinet, but do not undo it. The heat shield, which is made up of three pieces, is held together by these. As a result of taking apart the heat shield, I had a spare piece and the thing was back together for an hour. Still, you might want to take it apart so you can clean it all. It is likely that these things have not been cleaned since they were purchased, like me.
There are no mounting screws included, but there are two ceramic wire nuts. Because I just reinstalled the program, it is not an issue I used the two previously used, but you need to There is nothing easy or difficult about installing it, just that it attached to the gas rail in a way that necessitated that I remove the rail to replace the igniter. Since that has absolutely nothing to do with the ignition or gas valve operation, it seems.
I have tested it with my oven and it works. But what really frustrated me was that the cables that came with the igniter were only 2 feet long The distance between the igniter's hub and the oven's hub needs to be 3 inches shorter for me to connect to it. I cut the cable from my old igniter after sharing the information with another poster. To make it work, I then cut off the ends of the cables from the igniter to make sure I could connect them together. I apologize. Please keep in mind how frustrated I was at the time. Taking the risk was the right thing to do. It is my understanding that once I cut the new cable, I would not be able to return the product, and there was no way for me to verify whether the product That's when you had to connect the old cable and the new cable, and secure the connection - that took longer too, didn't it? Therefore, I have a complaint about why the cable manufacturer could not make one with two conductors Could we make the customer experience better by making the product 3 inches longer? The concept of saving two is clear to me It helps to subtract 3 inches from each unit to save on cost, but I could have given this product five stars! It is my hope that you understand it and you take some action to help out everyone. Please accept my sincere thanks.
I lived with a broken oven for several months due to my inability to pay a repairman. As a result, I decided to attempt to resolve the problem by myself. After taking apart the oven, I took pictures as I went along, and I was able to fix it without any difficulty. Although I am 60 years old, I am quite handy around the house. A good ignitor makes it easy for you to do it on your own. As soon as the oven turned on, it began to heat. There are actually 2 ovens in my house, and I fixed this one, too, with a different igniter since the brands are different. In the end, the ovens came apart differently, so the work was different, but it was done in the same way. crucial to have the right tools to do the job. You can usually find out what tools you need by watching a YouTube video of your specific model.
This part is solid. Even though I wasn't 100% certain as to why my oven wasn't lighting, I decided to try and replace the igniter because the part itself wasn't very expensive, and many of my google searches indicated that it was most likely the igniter that was at fault. In addition to getting to the igniter, the hardest part is As well as the front door, the bottom panel of the oven housing and another metal pan below it, I needed to remove them to gain access to the inside of the oven. As I was growing older and handling the old igniter housing with my hands, it was still hard for me to get access to the screws holding it in place. The screws were at a very odd angle, and I don't have a lot of dexterity left. In addition, the warming drawer below the oven had to be removed so that wiring could be accessed. As well as the back of the oven, I tried to get to the wiring, but I was unsuccessful. It did remind me to turn the oven off first however (please don't forget to do The new igniter had to be left unscrewed before connecting the wires, so it was easier for me to leave the igniter unscrewed and get the wiring done first. There wouldn't be enough wire to grab onto and manipulate while connecting them if there weren't enough wire. It was even harder for me to screw in the new housing (again, due to the weird angle the housing had to be screwed into) than it was to take it off after the wiring was done. As soon as I installed the new igniter, there was no problem. It now works perfectly without any issues.
This means you can get baking again within The 2003 GE gas range came equipped with this igniter that worked perfectly as an igniter. Several years ago, I purchased the exact same igniter to replace the broiler igniter. This igniter has also performed flawlessly. Although the installation is not intended specifically for consumer replacement, if you have moderate mechanical ability and electrical knowledge, it shouldn't be too difficult. If you look on Youtube for an instructional video or read a few articles on how to do it yourself, you can save a lot of money. There's not much to the job, but it's fussy, and the tools are typically found around the house, It replaces the circular igniter part labeled GE for about a third of the cost and is comparable to it. It comes with an adjustable wrench or socket set, as well as ceramic wire nuts. Part is made in the USA and packaged carefully to prevent damage. You will not find instructions in the package.
We would have preferred the leads to be a little longer and the connectors to match It was easy to install and the oven has a much faster heating rate now. If the glow element is dead, you can troubleshoot it with an Listen for the click that indicates that the solenoid is energized when you turn on your oven. Wires that run from the control board to the glow element should be connected to AC power. The wire from the glow element to the gas valve should be checked as well. It is possible that the element is not open if you cannot detect AC. It will be less expensive for you to say this than to call a.
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