Celestron 93428 X-Cel LX 1.25-Inch 3x Barlow Lens (Black)
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I do. The zoom lense is one of my favorites because it allows me to quickly locate what I'm looking for. When used in conjunction with the Barlow, you can, for example, get much closer to the planet. With a zoom lens and the Barlow combined, it's much easier to see Saturn's rings. My Celestron Travelscope, on the other hand, is more prone to tipping over as a result of it.
True, but it's a bit excessive. There's no way to turn your $90 telescope into the Hubble Space Telescope by using magic. Here's a piece of advice: Before you spend any more money on this telescope, go out and get a better one. No matter what you add to it, you won't get much more magnification than 100x from this telescope.
It might work, but you'll need better eyepieces and a more sturdy tripod to make it work. It's possible that you'll need to place the Barlow between the scope and the diagonal - I believe this is true for Refractor scopes in general, and you may require a longer Barlow (ask Celestron). With a Barlow, these scopes can sometimes be difficult to focus). My kids' cheap Meade refractor has a 3x Barlow, which is longer and made of plastic, but it works fine (they use a 25mm low-power lens). power EP with the Barlow (equivalent to an 8mm EP, but powerful enough to see tons of craters on the moon, Jupiter's stripes and moons, and Saturn's rings). Their Barlow came with the scope, but there were no instructions to put it between the scope and the diagonal, rather than between the diagonal and the eyepiece (as is the case with SCT and reflector style scopes). This Barlow lens (as well as most semi-permanent lenses) is quite heavy. The bigger issue is that it may be too heavy for the plastic focuser, and will definitely throw off the balance and weight limit of your tripod (if it doesn't just fall over, the tripod will have a harder time holding steady, and the focuser may bend or break). Still, it can't hurt to give it a shot. Simply purchasing a few decent, but reasonably priced Plossyl eyepieces (such as those from Meade's 4000 or 5000 series) will make a significant difference, as the eyepieces are the weakest component of budget scopes (along with the tripod, of course). The 5mm high-power scope that came with my kids' scope was a complete waste of money. The majority of semi-professionals The cost of a good "cheap" eyepiece is higher than the cost of your telescope. If you truly want to enjoy it, it's not a cheap hobby. Spend the extra cash on better eyepieces and save them for when you're ready to upgrade your scope. The best celestial objects, such as nebulas and DSOs, don't need much magnification to be seen - They require more light (from a larger diameter scope), but the planets are best seen at high magnification, which your cheap refractor can provide. Even in polluted skies, you can see Jupiter and Saturn clearly. Low-angle view, wide-angle view Eyepieces with more magnification allow you to see more of the sky - I frequently use low-power EPs to locate planets before switching to the Barlow or high-power EPs. To see a close-up, use a magnifying glass with a high magnification. up view. I'd get a wide-angle low mag EP (25mm) for star clusters and the Orion Nebula (maybe a few bright DSOs), and a high mag EP (8-inch) for viewing bright DSOs and the Orion Nebula. For viewing planets and the moon, use a 10mm lens. If you also get a Barlow, your EP collection will be doubled. FYI - The magnification of your scope is 165 times. The focal length of the scope is 400 millimeters. Magnification = Magnification (Scope's focal length/eyepiece's focal length) x Barlow's power When you combine a 10mm EP with a 3x Barlow, you get 3(400mm/10mm) = 120x magnification, which is ideal for viewing planets and the moon. The relationship between magnification and brightness is inverse. Because higher magnification reduces light, it's better to use low-power "wide angle" eyepieces to see faint stars and nebulae and save your high-power "telescopic" eyepieces for brighter objects. The planets and the moon can be seen in high resolution.
Yes, it fits, but the real question is whether it'll work with any particular eyepiece. We recommend that you keep the magnification of that telescope to 250x or less. Use the NexStar 4SE's Barlow with an eyepiece that has a focal length of less than 11mm.
Selected User Reviews For Celestron 93428 X-Cel LX 1.25-Inch 3x Barlow Lens (Black)
I'm completely blown away. with this 3X Barlow lens attached to my 130mm Newtonian telescope, I'm blown away by the planetary images I can capture. Jupiter (with visible Great Red Spot and three moons) and Saturn (with visible Great Red Spot and three moons) were captured using my Celestron AstroMaster 130 (with Telrad Finder) and ZWO ASI120 MC-II telescopes, respectively. The X-Men's S camera is attached to the X-Men's X Cel LX 3X Barlow is a 3X version of Cel LX. AutoStakkert was used to process the images! 2. Software: Windows 8 and RegiStax 6.
This takes the place of a very good Celestron Ultima Barlow from the 1990s. The Ultima was regarded as the best short Barlow on the market at the time, and the Ultima and this are very similar in some ways: br>br>1) They are three-element Barlowsbr>br>2) They are designed to work in star diagonalsbr>br>br>I bought the X- Cel 2x is based on the 3x version's performance, which boasted class-leading contrast and sharpness, as well as the ability to handle difficult eyepieces with a little more grace than the Ultima. The hollow top is crucial to the contrast performance because it eliminates a major potential source of reflections. br>br>The 2x is a little shorter than the 3x and can handle more difficult eyepieces. The contrast and sharpness are outstanding. People often say that a good Barlow should act as if it weren't there at all, aside from the magnification increase. There are no good Barlows by that definition, but these are the closest I've found among the many I've tried, including Meade, Explore Scientific, Baader, and Televue (earlier models). br>br>For newcomers to Barlows, here are some general thoughts. br>br>1) Be aware of the limitations of your telescope. Your magnification limit will be somewhere between 30x and 100x if your scope is well collimated. The aperture is 60x per inch. In a telescope such as the C8, a 10mm eyepiece will provide 200x (25x/inch). The power is increased to 400x (50x/inch) by adding a 2x Barlow. Around 30x/inch is optimal for a C8. The addition of a 3x Barlow only exacerbates the problem. This scope would benefit from a 2x Barlow and a 15mm to 20mm eyepiece. br>br>2) Be aware of your surroundings. The air you look through must be relatively steady to use high magnifications. The term "seeing" refers to the air's overall consistency. "If you have trouble getting a good night's sleep, stick to the magnifications you'll use the most. On those rare, consistent nights, you can use the Barlow. 3) A bad eyepiece is just that: a single bad eyepiece. A faulty Barlow lens has the potential to ruin a number of eyepieces. Do not scrimp on the quality of your work. If you're using a star diagonal, stay away from two-element, short Barlows, even if they're less expensive. They just don't work as well as they should. It's the third factor that makes a difference. The optical elements of some short, two-element Barlows can be threaded off and directly into an eyepiece, giving a 1. 3x to 1. Magnification is increased by 5 times. Optimally, this arrangement is usually inferior to a two-element Barlow attached to its own tube. br>br>4) If you're only going to use a Newtonian reflector, a longer Barlow is a better option because it's easier to make. The Televue 2x and the Orion Tri-Cam are highly regarded by amateur astronomers. mag (3x).
(1st impressions) It appears that first impressions played a role in the design. It appears to be of good quality and it has a pleasant feel to it. (Utilization) inserted it, examined it, and was only marginally satisfied. Because it was humid outside, I reasoned that the moisture in the air would degrade the quality of what I saw. Well, it's super clear tonight, so I went outside to look up and decided to compare the stock 3barlow with it. When I switched to the new one, I couldn't believe how much better it was than the stock one. They're both threes, so I figured it would look better, but it appeared to be a two. 3 times the magnification and 3 times the clarity I'm not just satisfied, I'm blown away, and pissed off is a good word to describe how insulting the stock barlow is, so celestron, if you read this, please throw that crap away and give me a better barlow.
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While this barlow is made of good, solid material with good optics, it also triples your focal ratio while doubling your focal length. A telescope with a focal length of 650mm and an aperture of f/5 becomes a telescope with a focal length of 1950mm and an aperture of f/15. What was once a fast telescope capable of seeing faint objects has become a slow telescope incapable of seeing faint objects. I wouldn't go higher than a 2x barlow, but that's just my opinion. However, it's possible that it'll be useful for planetary observation.
Barlows are an essential part of any astronomer's toolkit. I usually keep a hand of 2x, 2. 5x, and 3x, but not much higher than that. They're available in 4x and larger magnifications, but they're not Celestron. br>br>You can use these with a larger eye piece like 32 or 52mm to get 6x magnification. br>br>They are solid and work well.
Barlow is fantastic. The information is very clear. It's been used with a Canon T6i to photograph planets without the use of eyepieces.
This is of mediocre quality, with mediocre optics. I discovered that using a Barlow magnified all of the flaws in the lens. This is not something I would recommend buying. Spending a little more money on a Tele Vue would be a better choice. Tele Vue eyepieces are some of the best on the market. You get what you pay for when it comes to any product. Tele Vue manufactures a high-quality "Power Mate. ".
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