Amprobe ELS2A AC Line Splitter
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For a brief moment, I thought about this device. There is no mention of the UL approval. It's not strong enough. It's rated for 15 amps, according to the label. Look at the pug on the device to see if I'm checking a 15 amp or possibly a 20 amp outlet. How can I safely ensure a proper over current test if it is only rated for the smallest socket's maximum current? For the sake of SAFETY, I'll stick with 12 gauge SO cord with exposed wires.
This is only compatible with a NEMA 5-rated outlet. 15R/5- 15P is a typical outlet in North America.
It will most likely fit; my Amprobe AC/DC 620 fits perfectly, with about 9/16ths of an inch between the outer and inner walls.
Selected User Reviews For Amprobe ELS2A AC Line Splitter
I'd give this product a higher rating because it works well, but mine had a flaw. br> The electrical contacts for the hot and neutral in the receptacle end were only held in place by the contacts' own spring tension and friction with the upper half of the clam shell. They're arranged in a circle around. 015 to . A retaining screw secures the upper clam shell to the ground lug, which is 020 of an inch above the ground lug. Between the hot and neutral contacts and the ground lug, there was no insulating material. br>br>With the insulator missing, two conditions can cause the hot and/or neutral receptacle contacts to become dislodged and come into contact with the ground lug, resulting in a dead short on the AC line. br>The first is using the "VOLT CHECK" ports by inserting a volt meter probe into the port, which will push the contacts into the ground lug, causing a dead short on an energized AC line If the device is dropped, this could happen. This will result in a dead short on an energized AC line once again. br>br>After speaking with a manufacturer's representative, I discovered that there should be an insulator between the hot and neutral, as well as the ground lug. br>Check to see if yours has an insulator. br>br>UPDATE: The defective product was replaced without hesitation by the manufacturer. A well-designed insulator is included with the replacement. I'm going to give it a five-star rating now!.
It simply works. With my Fluke 325, I used this technique.
While looking for a Kill-Switch, I came across this tool. Watt meter is a type of watt meter. I didn't require a Kill-Bot's logging capabilities. watt, and I was not a fan of some Kill- Some of those units melted when used with high-wattage sources, according to watt reviews. That's the last thing I want in my house: current items that are still within the device's specs. I was just curious about the current demand for some higher-priced items. wattage appliances when they're first turned on and when they're running steadily Because I already had a clamp ammeter, this was a low-cost solution that provided exactly what I needed: Move on after taking a few measurements. Because the net current through the loop is zero, you can't use a clamp ammeter with a regular power cord: br>br> Consider the hot and neutral wires to be the "supply" and "return" wires, respectively. (I realize this isn't technically correct. ) This probe splits the line, allowing you to get an amperage reading on just one side; the 10x part is useful for lower-voltage applications. Measurements of power I got reasonable, quick readings from a toaster and a USB hub power supply, but I didn't test it against a calibrated current, so I can't comment on its accuracy. br>br>It appears to be a long-lasting unit. It stands out even more than a Kill- Watt does, but I'm only going to use it for a few measurements on a device before plugging it back in. I'm sure I'll use it in a lot more places than just a Kill-Switch. watt (e. , in the open air).
I worked as an electrician for many years and am now retired. For years, I used a 12" length of 12 parallel cord with the insulated conductors separated, a male plug body on one end and a female plug body on the other. For V measurements, a 1/2" section of the hot stripped was loosely covered with tape. It's clever, but it's also risky. This safely accomplishes all of the above (X10 Amp reading). It's also inexpensive, long-lasting, and brightly colored, making it easy to spot in a tool bag. And the red is similar to the color of my eyes in the morning, before I drink my coffee. br>In addition, I'm a retired emergency room nurse. Believe me when I say that you want this. On the other hand, you could be electrocuted, but this is extremely unlikely. You're more likely to get burned or start a fire if you do this.
One for myself and one for my son, as well as two Amprobe 320 clamp meters for home use. A circuit breaker has tripped on occasion as a result of plugging in or using a common appliance. Electric devices are all amp rated, so the splitter is useful for determining if one is overloading the circuit (pulling more amps than the rating states) and identifying the offending item, as well as confirming that too many items were running on the same circuit (tally up all the readings). If everything appears to be in order, the breaker is most likely worn out and should be replaced. If one appliance is drawing too much power, it should be repaired or replaced. Another tool to assist the homeowner in identifying and resolving a problem.
When used in conjunction with a clamp ammeter, this device is extremely useful. My only gripe is that at the rated 15 amps, the 10x loop generates a lot of heat. Would it have been too much trouble to use a heavier conductor?.
Despite the fact that it is not the cheapest splitter on the market, it is extremely well constructed. This is a Taiwanese unit, not a Philippine one. , as evidenced by the product's design. I measured the initial surge current draw as well as the running current draw of several appliances, including a 12 amp vacuum cleaner and a 15 amp air compressor, using this line splitter and my Fluke 376. It performs admirably. I'm satisfied with the value received for the money spent!.
However, I determined that this would be a more convenient and likely safer option. Because of the two holes, I like this design very much. When I use this device to test current, I take two measurements and compare them to make sure they agree. This gives me more confidence in my measurement. As an engineer, I learned how to improve accuracy by amplifying a clean signal before digitizing it.