OEMTOOLS 27181 Front End Service Kit
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The system will function on a car of the same size, but it may not work on some larger 4x4 vehicles. My vehicle is a 2500 suburban 4x4, and it does not
In short, yes. As a matter of fact, I used it on my
I think so
Since it wasn't large enough for my Subaru, I don't think it would work on a truck too.
Selected User Reviews For OEMTOOLS 27181 Front End Service Kit
I have read reviews of this, as well as the same item from other brands, which say that they break. I have used this product and know how to use it, so I am not sure how it will break in its normal usage. It is a fault of the brand that it does not supply more detailed instructions on how to use. In order to cause separation in even the most stubborn of ball joints, little force needs to be applied. important to point out that impact should not be necessary for this item, and while I am not aware of the manufacturer's recommendations, I recommend you not use impact on it, however you can still turn by hand. The first step should be to make sure you are using the right fork, as your application should require 7/8" fork openings. Make sure to lubricate the ball joint with something similar to PB Blaster and use a solid ball peen hammer to hammer the control arm (provided that it is not aluminum) and apply pressure as (or if) necessary. In terms of longevity, this tool should last most of your lifetime with no issues. It comes in a blow molded case, but it is only one piece, so it gets by without one. My own personal experience led me to believe that the company offers a limited lifetime warranty, is family owned, and is dedicated to customer service. This is not something I read or heard but something I personally have experienced.
I was pleased with the result. You didn't want to miss any of those! It took a 1/2" Craftsman ratchet to do the job. I never had to strain much to tighten it it was easy to turn After tightening the screw I waited a bit and then. . The boom! She burst into the air with a great deal of Even without hitting the Pitman Arm or Knuckle, I was able to do the job. You shouldn't remove the nut in order to prevent the ball joint from In order to catch it, I held on loosely to the tool. It is important to grease the large bolt's threads as well as the smaller bolt. A synthetic grease such as Mobil 1 was used. Under the Dust Boot and against the Pitman Arm, the bottom prong is tucked under the dust boot. If you don't want the prongs all the way in the back of the slot, don't. It is enough if you can get the end of the top arm fully over the ball joint shaft. There is no damage to the tool or the ball joints, nor do the dust/grease boots get damaged. With a plastic deadblow hammer, it is usually possible to tap in the bottom U shaped end all the way.
Upon reading reviews for this hydraulic puller, I opted to get this instead of the OTC tools suspension/steering kit. Thank you! I am so glad that This product is worth every penny! With a lifetime warranty, it's got a built-in lifecycle and will give you years of service. It's too good to be true! This tool can be used in any room. No trouble with space! It has no lift as well, since it is a factory Jeep. Having never used it on knuckle yoke/swing arm upper and lower ball joints, I cannot comment on the effectiveness of this combination, but I can see no reason it would not work with Note that if your ball joints have an Allen wrench hex at the top of the thread, you should raise your nut up beyond it so that you do not damage it or distort it, otherwise you may have trouble fitting it with the Allen wrench. I used to have a regular drill press until I found this little beast, it can "POP" those joints right out, even if it has to mangle the threaded shaft or the nut a bit. My tip is to use the puller on a broken nut that I keep on hand. All my ball joints on my Jeep JK have the same size nut. I don't want to ruin a flanged locknut I intend to reuse this way. As well as the puller, I used it to remove the tie rod. By using this same tool, you removed the ball joints on the drag links, tie rod ends, and pitman arms. We popped the ball joints on the Drag Link at Knuckle and Pitman Arm as well as the ball joints on the tie rod ends with no problems. The mechanism is the same as the drawing of Jeep maintenance tool, but it is much easier to use. By tightening the big screw and cranking the small screw, the grease will pop the ball joint out with hydraulic action, so simply screw it in till you feel good resistance-- Easier than pie! Rather than lubricating the threads, just spray them with oil. It wasn't necessary for me to strike the pitman with a dead blow hammer on his arm or knuckles. By just cranking the 1/2" ratchet with a bit of force, I got I waited a few seconds, then A few minutes later, they were gone. I have an OTC tool kit for pulling, but I haven't had to use All tasks can be handled by this single tool, and the job is made An excellent suspension tool is the best investment I ever made. Here are some more pictures I will post.
It would be more appropriate for a semi-rural area You can even get a truck! Here are the results of my attempts to As many do, I was the first to hammer out a solution. If you need a cheap puller, then borrow it from your neighbors. In third place- Rent auto parts for free at an auto parts store This tool pulls the jaws. A 4th-grade student After trying 4 times, I was almost able to damage the threads on the ball joint by all the pressure. I went back to the auto store and got another type that I did not notice the first time. With the help of a thread die, Lucky managed to clean up. The item was ordered and came out with still much pressure applied. There are two differences to this type of remover - You don't have to turn your ball joint while applying pressure to it. When the threaded bolt is not moved, it just attempts to remove the bolt- It is less likely that threads will be damaged. It is made of very heavy material There is no way this will ever break. The other tip is to oil the threads of this before you use it Maybe there would be less metal-to-metal contact under stress, as that may be the place where wear would occur?.
In the past, I would be anxious whenever I was working on my car and ball joints fell out. Pickle forks have hurt me at least a couple times and ball joint boots have ripped plenty of times. The 2001 accord I had with three ball joints on each side had knuckles that needed to be taken off to replace wheel bearings, so I needed to find another As I was looking at the non-commercial site, I came across As soon as I found this tool, I was able to separate ball joints with hydraulic hoses. My wife ordered this on a whim as it appears to be much tougher than other screw-type ball joint separators and the hydraulic action seemed like an excellent way to smooth out all the intense pressure it takes to remove As a result, I am so glad I bought this tool, it is a complete joy to pop ball joints, one of the more difficult tasks of home car maintenance. In order to use my sewing machine I greased the threads, the hinge and the metal contact points. Simple disassembly makes it easy to use. A few gentle turns of the smaller screw releases the ball joints with little effort, indicating that the tool is intuitive to use. The hydraulic action is as I expected, as long as the smaller screw is turned very slowly, the ball joints will As a result of this tool, I would estimate I saved myself at least an hour, possibly more when I replaced the
I anticipate that it will be utilized a lot in the future as I will no longer have to fret about removing ball joints over time.
My only disappointment is not receiving a hard case for the tool as stated I still give this tool a five star rating, so it doesn't matter.
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