OTC 6684 Engine Valve Spring Compressor for 3-Valve Ford 4.6L and 5.4L V8 Engines , Black
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The belt slides under the camshaft, not over it. A rocker arm removal tool is used to remove them. I don't think it will work without a camshaft and the rockers would still be attached to the crank In order not to let the valve fall into the cylinder, you would have to be careful not to let the spring or retainer fall into it.
I have Ford 5 in mind, so this is for it. V8 with four valves and three seats. The Ford Parts Number 303- should be used For those who possess the 4, you need to dial 581. The engine is a SOHC type 0.
For the Ford 3V engine, use this tool
This will work on an iPhone 5 I'm pretty sure. I haven't tried it on a V10 yet, but I have a 4 and an LS engine.
Selected User Reviews For OTC 6684 Engine Valve Spring Compressor for 3-Valve Ford 4.6L and 5.4L V8 Engines , Black
It takes a little while to become accustomed to this device. I replaced the phasers on my 5 this week. Watched the walk-through of the 4l engine Fordtechmakeuloco on YouTube has provided this link. Here are a few tips that may be helpful to you if you replace a phaser. I. 1. Buy an OTC tool with the money you have. Even so, I still bent the foot on the tool a few times, but it seems to be a much more durable unit than other tools. Ensure that you stop every two strokes when attempting to depress the spring Turn the valve stem a total of 3 times and press the stem downward. It's possible that you don't press hard enough with your fingers and the valve stem goes up a bit. A Dow rod with a rag attached on the end was used to clean the rod I was very pleased with it. The third point When you remove the first 6 followers using the tool, you no longer need to use it for the remaining followers to be removed. You will need to remove the phasers and chains first, and then the cams and 18 followers will follow. 3.
Here is what the tool is all about A hand screw (attached to the tool) goes over an adjustment screw at the very top of the tool. No instructions are included with the tool. Depending on how far down the hand screw is, you will not be able to get the hand screw on some springs. However, you may need to adjust it a little when replacing the followers so that the spring can be lowered enough to put the followers on once again. Symbols for br>5. I am re- You have a job to do when you install the followers! If you need to clean the hand screw, I would suggest getting a leather glove or rubbing some rag onto it. As a result of scratching my hand on the knob after maybe eight minutes, I had a blister on my hand The first followers were installed using rags (there were ten at the time). 5. See 6. I wish I had pictures of that tool (I wish I had). I know, the tool isn't exactly intuitive to use, and it takes a little while to get used to it. It seems there is an alignment nut with flat sides that goes into the holder when the spring depressor (the foot) slides into it (the part that loops under the cam). The tool can go in two directions but with me if the flat part is not facing the cam correctly, it would not align correctly and cause the foot to bend more easily. I marked the outside of the alignment nut as a solution. I sometimes put the tool in the wrong place, tightened it up to find it difficult to turn and out of position after I realized I put it in the wrong place. The mark made it easy to set the tool exactly as it should be. I made a simple notch opposite the flat end of the alignment nut, to serve as the mark. In other words, the flat spot needed to face the cam and the notch needed to be 180 degrees on the other side.
With this tool, you can remove the rocker arms of your 5 without a major issue. During the re-enactment of the 4l 3V engine, cam shafts had to be pulled and re-engaged The timing kit should be reinstalled after the engine is timed. I found it tricky to use the engine at first, but thankfully we have 24 chances to remove AND install at once, so we can get the hang of it. I'm so glad! I would like to offer two sage pieces of advice based on my own If you are compressing the spring, make sure you keep the rocker firmly in place on top of the valve stem so that the valve won't be pushed out while you're compressing. I wasn't concerned about my safety here since I had been warned beforehand. My truck would not have run off a cliff if I pulled the heads in response to dropping a valve into the cylinder, which was nice. Also, check clearance of the tool on the spring tower when compressing the One minor issue was that I were unable to fully compress the valve spring once or twice (with very little clearance in the head) when I accidentally bumped into the cam tower or something else. It took repositioning the tool and starting all over to allow the spring to fully compress in those cases. There is a possibility that the negative reviewers who broke the tool may have faced similar experiences and pushed it past its breaking point due to their misunderstanding of it. The tool is a must-have for this job, even though it requires a great deal of patience.
When I first bought the $30 version, it broke after a few It turned out that the 'real' version was better and would work properly. At the time, I was working on a job and I wanted to buy the "real" version. You will be surprised to learn this is the same cheap garbage sintered monkey metal found in knock offs. In case of anything less than perfect centering, the tip will bend. In addition, the tool appears to be not shaped correctly, which will cause it to bow outward and slip off. It took so much time for me to get tired of this useless piece of garbage. By simply unscrewing the cam caps and slipping the roller followers into position, I was able to fix this problem. Taking a ten-minute break was necessary. It's an overpriced piece of trash, so be sure not to waste your time.
Therefore, it came bent, I did not use it in any way, and I Besides the new OTC tool I bought another tool from ARES that was twice cheaper than the existing tool and three times cheaper than the used one. In comparison to the cheaper version, OTC tool is sturdier, so I believe what happened with the original one was misuse or usage for a long period of time (for example, attaching a picture of ARES being used for one period and OTC being bent). Whenever you buy used products, keep an eye out for possible damage. Thus I am not able to speak to its use, I think the new version might work well, but the price is too high for my liking.
I don't even want to look at it. There has never been a time when I felt so "scammed" buying a tool online. Metal used in the construction of this thing is of cheese grade and is impossible to prevent I bent it the first time I tried it and it started to slip off the valve. As soon as the tool was used again, you saw the tool bend back into place after I used pliers to straighten the ends and try a new spring. What makes matters worse is that I am working on an engine that has been removed from the truck and is standing on its own. The engine is in the best possible position for access to the cam followers and I still wasn't able to operate it long enough to remove or install the cam followers.
The right tool for the job is nowhere to be found unless you work with tools on a daily basis. If you have to compress valve springs on a 5, then you have to compress them. This is the 4 3v Ford. The data is useless for any other purpose, but vital for engines that use data. In my 2004 Ford F-150, I used the tool to replace all of the lash adjusters and roller followers There are 150 of them, and as far as I know, it will reach every one of them while the truck is on the road and the intake manifold is There have never been any issues with any of the 24 valves, and it works exactly as intended.