Lisle 19700 Valve Holder , black
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I'm not sure; you'll have to check the size of the plugs in your car. Sorry, I could be of more assistance if you did some web research.
It is compatible with any 14mm spark plug port.
Yes, it will fit a BBC head when it comes to screwing into the spark plug hole. The clearance should be sufficient with the stock exhaust manifolds. If you're running headers, I'm afraid I can't comment on whether or not there's enough clearance.
1/4" female npt female npt female npt female np
Selected User Reviews For Lisle 19700 Valve Holder , black
When I first opened the package, I was extremely disappointed. It turned out to be a lot smaller than I had anticipated. The way they had it all rolled up made the deal appear to be extremely sour. br>I untangled the short hose after opening it up. It was itching to curl up once more. It's advertised as having two fittings, but it's actually just one with a step for the two different thread sizes. I stared at the thing for a while, and noticed that the hose was stenciled with the words "Made in the USA. " Actually, the hose was quite sturdy, and the things I didn't like started to look like good ideas. br>a short hose IS preferable to a long one. There is no swivel on this to make screwing it into a spark plug hole easier. No way! You'll connect it to your hose with a swivel joint. It's also a good idea to have both thread sizes on one adapter. Who wants to add to their toolbox with yet another set of adapters? Short threads make it simple to put on. easy off. The more I looked, the more confident I became in my decision. These guys have a good understanding of what they're doing. a good product. br>br>.
The engine is a GM LS 5. Avalanche LS 2009, 3l The Pros: br>br>The Pros: br>br>The Pros: br>b In terms of hose fittings, it appears to be well made. But it's only worked so far. Needs to be improved: br>br>
1. More threads are required; only two or three go into the head. Even when using o- A slow leak has developed in a ring that has been coated with a little petroleum jelly. Despite the fact that I set the cylinders to compression TDC in case a valve blew, my compressor cycled far more frequently than I wanted. 2. br>br>1. br>br>br>br>br>br So that the hose does not arrive kinked, it needs to be packaged better. It helped to leave it weighted for a couple of days. 3. br>br>4. br>br>5. br>br>6. For various engine plug locations, at least two hose lengths are required. Suggestions: br>br> I use a borescope, which is an inspection camera. camera of a snake etc. ) to determine compression TDC on my pistons (both valves closed). Get a straw that's about the size of a camera and tape one end to the depth of a spark plug. In the plug hole, shove it. camera should be fed until it reaches the end of the inserted straw As you tighten, keep an eye on the piston to see if it rises. br>With all the plugs out but the serpentine belt on, turn the engine. Then, using tape markers, mark your favorite pulleys to see if the engine moves. I used 60 PSI in the pistons, which did not turn my engine; there was no guesswork involved, and it worked perfectly. Also. To keep the crank turning to a minimum, I followed the engine firing order. I bought the camera on Amazon for around $30 and use it all over my engine and house. As shown in the picture, I attached a quick connect to the air hose. br>br>Summary: br>br> I found this hose after watching many YouTube videos. By the way, it's the same air leak. It functions satisfactorily, but it could be improved.
The use of this hose is simple, but if your spark plug holes are located inside a tube, you may find it difficult to engage the threads. The hose takes on a permanent curve after being tied in a knot and vacuum sealed to a flat piece of cardboard. It won't help if you soak it in hot water. br>br>To keep the hose straight, I needed a length of small diameter aluminum rod. The rod was withdrawn after it had been threaded into the cylinder head. The rod must be longer than the hose in order to function properly. There's no chance it'll fall into the engine. br>br>If threading this hose into an aluminum head, use some sort of anti-snap device. Squeeze the threads as tightly as you can. I made use of a brush. on Champion graphite 2612.
I'm not a big fan of spending money on specialty tools that are only used once and then sit in my garage for eternity waiting for another use that never comes. When I was doing some valve work with the heads on my 1990 Chevy K2500 350 engine, this did the trick. It was difficult with a small compressor, so I added a 5-inch compressor. gallon portable tank, which proved to be extremely beneficial. If you try to do valve work without something like this, you'll quickly discover how difficult it is to reclaim a valve after it has fallen into a cylinder. . . I've been there. Of course, moving the piston up on the cylinder you're working on helps, but that's not as simple as keeping the pressure on and hoping your little compressor doesn't overheat and blow a fuse. I figured I'd never use it again, so I sold it along with a few other tools to make room for more specialized equipment.
To perform a leakdown test and determine where I was losing compression, I needed an adapter to connect my air compressor to an engine cylinder. It completed the task and revealed that I had two faulty exhaust valves. I'm sure it could also be used as a valve holder. It fit perfectly in the spark plug holes and was completely sealed. The tube is stiff and appears to be of good craftsmanship. There will be no refunds.
Out of the box, it appeared to be quite nice. To avoid stripping the head, brass threads were used. There are two sizes available. rings to aid in the sealing There aren't enough threads to go around, which is a problem. There are only three threads per step, if that. I had trouble catching enough threads in the first cylinder to keep it sealed. It was toast by the second cylinder, and I didn't want to thread or seal it. It was probably due in part to the soft brass, in part to the small thread size, and in part to the unevenness caused by the bend in the hose. However, at cylinder 2, it proved to be useless. To finish the next seven cylinders, I had to rely on an old compression tester kit. Not a good idea.
This was purchased for the purpose of replacing the valve springs on a Hemi. It worked, but there was an air leak at one end, requiring the compressor to cycle on and off frequently in order to maintain pressure. I was stuck and needed it, so I improvised, but I had to return for a replacement hose as soon as possible. I haven't tried the replacement yet, so I'm hoping it will work when I need it.
I have a set of 290 Big Block Chevy heads that take 5/8" tapered plugs, and the 18 MM threads had to be ground down before the 14 MM portion would thread into the spark plug holes. Because this product is brass, it was simple to grind down, but it was no good to have to permanently modify it to get the job done. If I have to buy valve holders again, I'll go with the OEMTOOLS 25027, which has two separate dedicated fittings. One is for 14 MM, and the other is for 18 MM. The 14 MM fitting is significantly narrower than the 18 MM fitting, and it is unlikely that it would collide with my head as this Lisle valve holder did.