ONLINE LED STORE 6 Pack 4-Pin 12V Bosch Style Fused Relay Switch Kit [Interlocking Harness Socket Holder] [14 AWG Hot Wires] [SPST] [30 Amp] 12 Volt Automotive relays with Fuse for Auto Cars
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In this case, the fuse on the #30 terminal protects the source voltage supply. This should also protest the accessory wired to the #87 terminal, because if the source sees a spike and blows the fuse, there will be no current in the outlet. For additional safety, you are also advised to fuse anything connected to the accessory side of the relay on the #87 terminal on its own.
Here is a translation I hope
It seems like the coil is the only thing that could be the problem. Lights flicker when you walk through the house
It is possible to activate the relay by passing the 12 volts through the relay coil, so that the 24 volts can be passed through. A relay that can handle more than 24 volts may be necessary. If it doesn't burn, you should be able to get it out. Put the test to the test
Selected User Reviews For ONLINE LED STORE 6 Pack 4-Pin 12V Bosch Style Fused Relay Switch Kit [Interlocking Harness Socket Holder] [14 AWG Hot Wires] [SPST] [30 Amp] 12 Volt Automotive relays with Fuse for Auto Cars
In my truck, I installed two of these relays for the cooling fan system. There is one circuit for 20A on each. In addition to the new wiring, there are also new I didn't see any fuse pops for about 5 minutes, then they worked fine again. The excessive resistance was caused by the relays, which I found upon inspection of the system. It was actually 6 ohms. I put in a new relay and fuse, and the circuit ceased to blow The connection between the terminals and the windings of both relays has a burned spot at the connection point. I have opened both relays and have found the burned spot. The excessive resistance I encountered here is to be found here. The relays I mention above are not recommended.
On my Polaris Ranger, I hooked up a LED light bar. When I tried to test my wiring, the relay was not working. As a confirmation, I removed the relay to verify that the wiring was correct. This was a bit of a puzzle. We checked another relay from the pack of 6 in case it was a flawed or malfunctioning relay- I still did not get any results. The wiring in my home was triple checked. Did not perform well in a test There was a fused relay lying around, so I plugged it into the socket and the problem was solved The system was working as it should have. We finally found a relay that works after pulling out the third of six relays. Two out of the first three I tried did not work. I haven't tried the other three yet. It's a good idea to include a fuse in the wiring to tidy things up, but with a 66% failure rate, it's.
A relay can handle a maximum of 30 amps. You will not need to worry about your electronic equipment being protected by this relay. During the installation, I removed the 30amp and replaced it with a 7amp. LED lights are recommended to be run at a maximum of 5 amps. You should not use fuses that are too large for the circuit.
You should also install the relay as close to the battery as possible when using a relay. If you add another fuse close to the battery, you will not be able to protect the wire between the battery and the relay.
Using relays, sockets, and fuses is a great way to power up and protect a component with the least amount of wiring. In my opinion, the main advantage of this design is that the fuse is integrated into the assembly so a separate fuse does not have to be wired into the circuit, so in case of failure, a customer does not have to worry about finding it. One of the things I dislike about these parts is this feature. The fuse was supposed to be part of the socket assembly, so the relay could be switched independently of the fuse. I noticed when I received the order that the fuse is in the relay body itself, not the socket, which means that one needs to keep a spare relay (with fuse attached) in the car in case it ever fails, otherwise, you run the risk of running with an unreliable relay. The relay might fuse if it is replaced with a relay made by another manufacturer. Because of the ease of finding the correct fuse, I give these relays an A+, but for finding a replacement part if I don't have one on hand, I have to give them a D since they might have to be rewired A purchase was made on the website.
My 2017 JKU has auxiliary lights, so I ordered these to connect them. If you are a fan of Jeeps, these fit under the steering wheel perfectly. A snap is made of securing them with the interlocking design (pictured). My opinion is that this relay system is one of the best I've ever used. I cannot think of anything that would improve it any further. The switching honeycomb from Rugged Ridge was used in conjunction.
Several of these 30 amps with fuses, 30 amps without fuses, 60 amps, and 80 amps will be installed in my drag truck and will turn it into a weekend-only street car. You'll save money if you buy them here rather than at a A total of 4 ground wires connect to the body at different points. In the powers section, you will find the following Mounted under the truck are dual fans, a water pump, a fuel pump, and a transmission cooler. There is only a ground wire off of a ground Not many people fall to the ground when they get a hold of something. When I am building a home I make sure that the ground is very good. When the truck is running at idle, I would also like to make sure that there's 14 volts at the ignition switch inside the truck cab, and that the power is flowing out of the ignition switch. and no problems have been reported with the relays. Update to 10/26/2019
no problems with the relays reported. As of yet, I have not blown a fuse. It may be that individuals are having problems if their ground source isn't good enough, or their wiring gauge is too small, or their amp draw on startup reaches 30 amps. It might be difficult to start fans with a high amp draw when the unit is first turned When the power is on, all the power sources should be checked to see how many amps are being drawn, so you can match the relay. The ground wiring on my four outlets is ground. of 2800 CFM each, a fuel pump of 14 gp, a water pump and a transmission fan cooler. I currently draw 32 to 35 amps on start up and run at about 22 amps for the duration of the run In this case, 60/80 amps is what I use for the relays on my fans. Every other relay I use has a 30 amp rating. My amp draw with these on is 68 amps at idle with the fuel pump, water pump, and trans cooler fan on the 30 amp relay. My hope is that some of the people suffering from problems will find this helpful. On the fans in front, my wire gauge is 8 and on the rest of my fans, it is 10. I am not using the wire.
took the opportunity to switch from a manual fan to an electric one. In the original purchase of this relay kit, I paid over $25 and later encountered some internal wiring issues that could not be repaired since the relay base was not I eventually decided not to use the kit solution but rather to just wire in a standard relay instead. The first time I saw these, I was blown away. For a reduced wire length, the relays can be interchanged and the fuse can be built in. Following its completion, I tested it and got a loud and solid "CLICK" upon engaging the relay. There seems to be good contact inside the company. There's nothing better than the warm fuzzy feeling I get from this relay than the weak click of the fan conversion kit. Best of all, I got a box of six of these so if anything goes wrong, I have a spare or extras for later modifications to my car.