Fan Thermostat Temperature Switch with 3/8" Pipe Thread, 185 to 175 Degree Electric Engine Cooling Fan Thermostat Temperature Sensor Switch, Fits 10" 12" 14" 16" Fan (with Pipe Thread)

The cooling fans on my aluminum radiator were activated by this temperature switch. br>br>I connected it to my SBC's water pump port. The switch claims to actuate at 185' and shut off at 175', but my Milwaukee temp gun shows it's about 5 degrees off. br>br>I had to use the adapter to fit that port. br>br> My temp gun showed it actuated at 180°F and shut off at 170°F, which is well within the margin of error, in my opinion. br>Not a big deal. Some people will claim that teflon tape will affect the switch's grounding, but this is untrue. If they claim this, they either don't understand how tape threads work or they wasted so much tape that the threads' mechanical engagement was harmed. br>Tape is designed to tear and fill in gaps rather than affecting thread engagement. br>br>If you want to make sure the switch is properly grounding to the engine block, connect a jumper wire with an alligator clip to the terminal and touch the other end to the body of the switch (not the metal you threaded it into). This will confirm good ground. If you need a temperature switch, I would recommend this item; it works well and does exactly what it should.

Simone Frey

| Feb 19, 2021

It's fine until it isn't anymore. I bought one of these for my truck's electric fan, and it worked fine for about three months before the electrical connector snapped. I thought the wire was too tight and had stressed the connector, so I went out and bought another. To replace it, I bought a second one, which worked fine for about two months. My truck overheated, and I discovered that the switch had failed. My fan is now wired to only turn on when the motor is running, and the sensor serves only to fill in the gaps.

Royal Barr

| Jul 03, 2021

This part was used to turn on a radiator fan at 185 degrees Fahrenheit and turn it off at 175 degrees Fahrenheit. A 180-degree thermostat is the best choice for this temperature range. Make sure you get a relay that can handle enough current to overcome the inrush current (at least 2x the electric fan's rated amps). The ground is applied to the coil side of the relay by this switch, and the 12V is provided by your key on hot or ignition wire. When the coolant temperature reaches 185 degrees, the fan will turn on and stay on until the coolant temperature falls below 175 degrees.

Gemma SLATER

| Apr 09, 2021

I bought a relay fan kit to go with my new electric fans, but the thermostatic switch that came with it was broken. I figured it couldn't hurt for the price, and it turned out to be a great fit for my car! It never allowed my car to reach 200 degrees and turned off when it was supposed to.

Xavier Peterson

| Nov 05, 2021

I purchased one to see if it would solve my problem with the fans never turning off. It served its purpose. When I inquired about the current rating of this switch, the manufacturer was unable to provide me with any information. Yeah, I should have asked before I bought it, but I'd been fighting this fan issue for so long that I was willing to spend $14 to see if the reduced temperature range would solve my problem. Now that I don't know how long this switch will last (I'm running 1 1/2 amps through it), I'll look for another manufacturer that makes a switch in the temperature range I require and see if they can provide me with the switch current rating.

Zariah Charles

| Oct 29, 2021

Don't throw your money away. On a Jeep CJ with a 304 V-8 engine, I installed this as a fan switch. 8 electric fans (16"), aluminum radiator br>The fan voltage was controlled by a relay, and the relay ground was controlled by the fan switch. When the switch was installed, I replaced the engine coolant, bled the system, and brought the Jeep up to operating temperature. br>The fan switch was activated, and it worked perfectly. Within the temperature range, the fan turned on and then off. br>I drive the Jeep for the second time two days later. br>After about an hour of driving, the fan switch stopped working. br>Thankfully, the engine temperature gauge never exceeded 215 degrees, but I did have to bypass the switchbr> to keep the fan running after the switch failed. Not only is bypassing the switch inconvenient, but it also risks cooking my motor if I hadn't noticed the temperature rise and bypassed the switch before it reached dangerous levels. Finally, I'd like to express my gratitude for all of your efforts. This switch is not worth your money.

Jenesis Mason

| Feb 03, 2021

It works perfectly on my 1998 Town Car, thanks to some brilliant Ford engineer who decided that the 1998 4. A cooling temperature sensor is not required for the 6L engine; instead, bs sensors are used. And they don't work, but since the town car still had the whole, I connected one to the fan relay, which works on ground rather than pos. IT WORKED GREAT FOR 40,000 MILES AND THEN I SOLD THE CAR. IT TOOK ME THREE YEARS TO FIGURE OUT, AND THIS IS HOW I FIXED A PROBLEM MADE BY FORD, LINCOLN, AND MERCURY ON THE 4. 6L V8 You'll need to replace the 190 thermostat with one that's 180 degrees. Its location is important; put it somewhere hotter than the rest of the room, or somewhere cooler, depending on whether it's closer or farther away from the thermostat. Remember that the temperature will continue to rise for 5 minutes after you turn off the car, so you'll have some breathing room. Thanks to the negative chassis switch, I was able to connect it to a green LED button that turned green when the relay turned on.

Mohammed Holloway

| Apr 10, 2021

I tested it in boiler water a few times and it never turned on at the same time; I got a temperature variation of about 12°F, but it was always above the claimed set point. br>br>Amazon said they would replace it, which is great, but I needed to fit it to the car so I could use it until I could get something better.

Nevaeh Zamora

| May 08, 2021