Dorman 902-303 Engine Cooling Fan Relay Kit Compatible with Select Models
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The terminal circuits are as follows, from left to right, when looking down on the relay with the terminals facing away from you and the retaining clip on top:
1. Z1 - a gauge of 20 inches Black: groundbr>br>br>br>br>br> C24 - a gauge of 20 inches Pink tracer on DB: Control of the radiator fan relaybr>3. C23 - 12 Gauge DG is a gauge that is used to measure the thickness of a Output of the Radiator Fan Relaybr>4. A16 - 12 GY: Fused B+
I did it in a 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager, and I'm guessing it works the same way. It's made up of two parts: a solid state relay and a new connector, which you don't have to replace but should because the connector interface can speed up the new part's failure. Here's how to do it: Remove the relay from the frame by unscrewing it and placing it somewhere you can see it clearly. While the relay and cable are still connected, take a picture of them. Fit the new relay into the old connector to see if it works. If everything looks good, cut the four wires, remove some insulation, and crimp the new connector to the old one using the crimp splices. I'd use electrical tape to help keep moisture out of the splices at this point. Reinstall the new relay on the frame where it was found by plugging it into the new connector. To aid in heat transfer from the relay to the vehicle frame, I recommend first smearing thermal grease on the underside. Best of luck!
This item is not listed for your Neon, so please accept our apologies.
My package arrived on July 18, 2020, and it included a small pouch of thermal paste.
Selected User Reviews For Dorman 902-303 Engine Cooling Fan Relay Kit Compatible with Select Models
fans. We assumed the thermostat in my girlfriend's Grand Cherokee was stuck when it overheated, so I went out and bought a new one. No dice! The next step was to check the fan unit by connecting the battery to the fan connector with a couple of wires jumpered between them. The fan was extremely effective. This is where you should start. Two days after placing the order, it was delivered. I removed the headlight as shown in the videos on YouTube and discovered that it had already been replaced at least once. Dorman recommends replacing the harness with their new one, and one of the pins on the old one appeared to be darker, so I clipped and stripped all the wires. NOTE: Cell phones come in handy in this situation. Before I clipped the wires, I took a picture of the harness, which made matching correct wire to correct wire a breeze. It took me about an hour to complete the installation, including making sure all connections were secure. I believe the only way this part could be improved is if shrink wrap was included as well, so that everything could be made watertight. However, that would necessitate the use of a heat source, so it's probably safer to proceed without one. After installation, the fan was perfect! ONE THING TO KEEP IN MIND; Vacuum lines were used to control the cabin vents, as well as the cruise control, on Grand Cherokees from the early 2000s. Many people have discovered that if one of those lines breaks, the system defaults to the defroster and the cruise control function is disabled. (Or they pay a mechanic a lot of money to find it) Anyway, removing the headlight reveals a vacuum canister with a rubber hose connecting it and a plastic T connector behind the headlight. I just happened to notice a broken dry rotted hose while replacing the relay. My girlfriend now has a working fan, as well as a working heater and cruise control, thanks to a 50-cent investment!.
I have a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan, and it works perfectly; I tried everything else, including one from O'Reilly, and none of them worked. I was about to go to the dealer when I came across this one with the new connector, despite the fact that mine appeared to be in good working order. I installed it and have had no problems so far after about a thousand miles. The others went up in flames in 15 to 20 minutes. The fan on my original one kept running even when it was turned off, so I had to disconnect the battery to prevent it from draining the battery. When I turned on my air conditioning, the others would only run the fan on low and not turn it on, so I had no air conditioning at idle, but it worked fine on the highway. So, if you're having any of these issues, this section will help you out. The Grand Caravan fans, by the way, should be turned on at 222 degrees on your digital ScanGauge and turned off at 212 degrees. Soon after the air conditioner is turned on, the fan should turn on as well. Regardless of how cold the vehicle is. Before these fans can turn on, the air conditioning system needs to pressurize a little.
Check to see if your fan is functioning properly. This is a good section that, in my opinion, accomplishes its goal. A relay that wasn't working was one of the issues I encountered; I replaced it, and it worked for about an hour before another relay failed. By performing a resistance (Ohms) test on my fan, I discovered that when the fan was turned on, it was putting a high (well over 40 Amp) load on the relay, causing it to fail. The fan relay is a very common part to replace on these vehicles, and I would HIGHLY recommend checking the amperage the fan uses (by dividing your fan's resting resistance (Ohms) into your car's running voltage) before replacing one after another. My factory fan had a reading of 0 in my case. The new Dorman fan I bought had a resistance of 3 ohms, while the old one had a resistance of 7 ohms. 6 Ohms. This meant that my relays were seeing loads ranging from 40 to 100 kilowatts. 60 Amps. The new fan allows the new relay to handle up to 2 amps of current. This, combined with the use of heat sink grease between the body and the fan relay to ensure maximum heat dissipation, should provide a long-term solution.
The fan relay is found in 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokees. The installation was simple enough, and I was pleased that it included a lot of extras like thermal compound and a harness, among other things. However, that feeling faded quickly, as the relay failed catastrophically within three days! It's a far cry from the original. When the OEM one failed, the car would simply overheat a little, about 20 degrees higher than it should have been. With this relay, the fan either stays on all the time, even when the car is turned off, or it doesn't send enough voltage for the fan to spin at the proper speed. As a result, my car overheated to the limit of the gauge twice, and I had to McGuyver the fan to the battery to get home. This is not a good use of your time.
Everything will point you to this part when looking for a cooling fan relay for the 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ, but this is not the case for mine, and there are two relays (high and low) located in the fuse box on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Tyco relays with the number 04848879AA 72472M were mine. I finally found a blurb online stating that the Mopar 4727370AA replaced the originals after a lot of searching. They were a great replacement, slightly smaller overall than the originals but the connectors lined up perfectly with the factory wiring connectors, so I bought them (on Amazon). They appear to function properly, and the cooling fan has been running smoothly for several weeks with no signs of overheating. br>br>I'm still giving 5 stars because the product looked great and I don't think it's the fault of the manufacturer; everything I looked at said this was the part for the 2004 WJ. And I'm just glad I was able to locate replacements for a part that doesn't exist in theory!.
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