MOOG K90681 Stabilizer Bar Link
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Only one link is included in the box, so you'll need to order two if you need both sides.
Although the internal components of the K90681 are lubricated during assembly, the socket and boot may not be completely filled. Moog serviceable parts should be greased at the time of installation and after each oil change. Engineers at Moog recommend using a high-end heavy-duty synthesizer. synthetic grease or lithium grease for heavy-duty applications Thank you
It's not going to work.
Selected User Reviews For MOOG K90681 Stabilizer Bar Link
The kit met my expectations. br>First, screw in the Zerk grease fitting, then apply grease with a grease gun until it squeezes out. br>It was very simple to set up. br>Torque the top nut to 14 pounds and the bottom nut to 51 pounds (torque values are on the instructions; I believe what I posted was correct). br>br>The only suggestion I have is to include a picture in the instructions with the parts attached. Because the instructions are only text, a picture would be helpful in identifying the tip and side nuts for torque values. br>br>Tools required: br>Wrenches for zerk fitting, 12mm. To hold the rod and the side fitting, 15mm and 18mm are used. br>Sockets are a type of connection that allows two devices to communicate with one another. Top and side nuts are 19mm and 17mm, respectively. br>Torque wrench for properly setting torque values. br>br>I simply drove my 4Runner up on ramps for the installation. There were no wheels that needed to be removed. br>I took out the old link kits and replaced them with new ones. Maybe I was lucky, or it was just all that clean living, but I was able to simply push the new kits in place without any special tools to pull the sway bar to the tie rod ends.
My 2001 4runner's sway bar links are 19 years old, so it's time to replace them both. I installed them a month ago and so far they've performed admirably. I had no trouble installing them, and the best part about these moog sway bar links is that they have grease fittings, allowing you to keep them greased at all times. I'm very pleased with both of them, and I would recommend them to you for your Toyota.
These fit perfectly on my 2000 4Runner, and I've noticed a noticeable improvement in cornering and handling. I knew mine were worn out, but they gave me a new car ride, thanks to the zerk fitting for grease and the protective metal housing around the ball. These were the only ones I could find with this feature. I would strongly suggest it.
My end links were in need of replacement, and these fit the bill. They are less difficult to install and appear to be of comparable quality to OEM. The grease fittings are included in this set, whereas the stock ones are not. They don't require a lot of grease, but I like that you can repack them as needed. This is my third set of greasable Moog links, which I've installed on various Toyotas. All of them are in good condition.
threaded. I got two of these for my front stabilizer and anti-roll bar. For a 2001 Toyota Tundra 4WD, a sway bar rebuild is required. One of them was fine, but the other had a quality control issue with the spindle being cross-threaded. threaded. Because the rest of the item appears to be of good quality, I'm exchanging it for an identical replacement sway bar link. The only way to know is to wait.
When I noticed the previous links I replaced had already gone bad, my family was getting ready to go on a road trip in two days. The rubber had cracked and was no longer usable. My truck has been squeaking a lot, which I attribute to the bad links. br>I ordered these Moogs and they are much beefier than the previous brand and appear to be much more durable, so I'm glad I spent the extra money on a higher quality part so I can rest assured that my family and I will be safe on the road. br>These were for my SR5 double cab Toyota Tundra from 2004.
Although it meets the needs of the application, the build quality is subpar. The washers that pinch the rubber bushings together wouldn't slide on the upper part of the link, which was an issue for me. To get them to fit, I had to drill them out. Furthermore, I was unable to thread the bolt onto the upper pin's threads. I used a 10mmx 1 thread cleaner to clean up the threads. 25 die. Whatever they use to coat these appears to fill the threads and cause the diameter to be too large for the washers. I had the tools I needed to fix the problem, but it shouldn't have been necessary.
OEM's numbered two. I decided to take a chance on these because they were 5 times the price and it wasn't a mission critical part. As expected, the installation was simple. After seeing photos of rusted parts in other reviews, I applied two coats of paint/primer to them. It will be a matter of protecting one's life.