MOOG K80273 Stabilizer Bar Link
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They aren't going to work on a modified suspension, in my opinion. The sway bar would be at a wrong angle as a result.
Horribly holding up. Don't waste your money because you'll be back to popping sounds in no time and won't be able to use your factory hardware. If I can find the original hardware, I'll go back to stock. In less than 40000 miles, I've replaced them three times. Because the newer version has a smaller factory size shaft, the original pair I made required drilling out the fram block, which I had already replaced. It was a huge blunder on my part. When I switched from my factory ones to this garbage at around 130000, they were fine. I hope this has been of assistance to you.
I'm not sure which side it is, but one of the brackets has to come off. It's super easy to put together and only requires two bolts. The other side is just as easy to slide in.
My guess is that it's Moog himself. They will almost certainly send you to a local retailer of their parts if you have a receipt or proof of purchase. Also, go to the Moog website and look at their warranty policy.
Selected User Reviews For MOOG K80273 Stabilizer Bar Link
I'm a big fan of MOOG. I just finished rebuilding all of the steering and suspension on my 2002 F250 using only MOOG parts, so when I leave a three-year lease on it, it will be in tip-top shape. You can be confident that the five-star review is accurate. I'm going to look at both the passenger and driver sides because they both had issues. Here's the deal: br>br>First, the top side stud of the passenger side end link is too long to install without cutting it down, removing the entire bracket, or disconnecting the exhaust; perhaps Ford should share the blame, but in any case, this isn't really MOOG's fault, but it's worth noting. I couldn't cut it off far enough to make a difference without sacrificing too many threads, so I removed the bracket and reinstalled it. The bracket is only two bolts, so it's not a big deal unless they're frozen, but it's still a pain because of the tight space. br>br>As for MOOG, here's what went wrong: The grease zerk provided by the manufacturer would not fit the same top of the same end link. I tried for 45 minutes to get it to bite, but I couldn't get it to do so. I tried a few more zerks, but none of them worked. This was especially aggravating because it was the final piece I needed to finish the project, so I finally gave up and put a temporary stop to it until I can get back to it. br>br>The driver side would have been a breeze, but the top stud's circumference was too wide to fit entirely through the mounting hole, so I had to put it on a bench grinder and whittle it down as evenly as possible to get it to fit. br>br>I triple-checked the compatibility of these end links with my truck's year and model, so I'm annoyed that I had to spend several hours on Memorial Day doing something that should have taken no more than an hour. I read some other reviews from people who had similar problems and, like me, were able to work around them, but I was expecting more from MOOG, especially given how much more than everyone else MOOG expects at the register. However, once installed, the overall construction quality appears to be up to par with their reputation.
Some customers complained about how difficult it was to thread them. Zerck fittings have a tapered thread that ensures a tight seal in the grease compartment. The grease would seep out as it was pumped in if the thread were straight. Starting the thread with care is required, and then threading in the fittings should be felt with constant resistance. The part was installed perfectly and quickly. Because all grease bases are not compatible, I'd like to know what type of grease was used during the assembly. I believe that anyone who had premature failure did so because they used the wrong grease or did not grease on a regular basis. The product exceeded my expectations.
(2003 F350) The front end has been stiffened up nicely, and these appear to be much more durable than the OEM design. br>br>Taking off the entire sway bar is the easiest way to install these. The bottom should be bolted first, then the tops should be inserted, and finally the bushings should be installed. PN: PN: PN: PN: PN: PN: PN: PN: PN: PN: PN: PN: PN: PN: PN: PN: K80274. While you're at it, replace the bushings as well, but measure the sway bar first because they can vary in thickness.
A 2002 Ford F350 4WD SRW Crew Cab with an 8' bed and a 7. My customer had the stealership replace this link (Ford 1C3Z-3) on his 3L diesel engine. 5K483- Before I started working on his truck, I suggested BA or Motorcraft MEF206) a time (or more) on his truck over the last 310,000 miles. In addition, I put in a set of Energy Suspension (4. Axle bushings to 5186R (or G) stabilizer bar; The remaining bushings and sleeves were installed and given to a friend in the removed links. br>He has told me that he thinks the truck rides and drives better than it did when it was new (the truck originally came with LT265/75R16 Firestone tires, but now has Michelin tires in the same size). He's ecstatic after driving about 12,000 miles since the installation. This truck travels around 35,000 miles per year. A year's worth of travel is 40,000 miles. NOTE: The proprietor owns and operates a construction firm.
They don't last very long, maybe ten minutes. 20k. They end up costing a lot more money than sticking with the original design, which lasts for over a hundred thousand miles.
It appears to be of high quality, and it fits my 2004 Ford F350 perfectly. With Moog products, you simply cannot go wrong! After installation, I used Lucas Red "N" Tacky to thoroughly grease them. That's my kind of thing. If you live in a wet environment, I would recommend spray painting them. I'm from the Pacific Northwest, and after a few months, they start to rust. Of course, this has no bearing on anything; it's just a helpful hint! Without a doubt, this is a five-star product.
I was very disappointed with this MOOG part; I thought it would be a great solution, but I could have gotten the same mileage out of a no-name part for less than half the price, and even with twice-yearly greasing, I only got about 20K miles out of them before they started clunking. I'm replacing them with Ford parts because the originals lasted 16 years and 85K miles.
These were a great upgrade and good product, well made and appear to be very durable, compared to the ones I had. These are very nice, and they were simple to put together.
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