MOOG K80066 Stabilizer Bar Link
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It's a one-off. One is required for the driver's side and the other for the passenger's side of the vehicle.
No, each kit comes with one link (as shown), which can be used on either side; if one side's link wears out, the other is likely to follow soon after, so get two. They're simple to install, and you'll notice a difference in your vehicle's handling immediately. You'll also get rid of the grating clunking noises caused by worn sway bar links in your front end.
Here's what Moog has to say about their warranty. They make no mention of a lifetime warranty. The Limited Lifetime Warranty on Moog Premium Steering Components applies to all Moog Premium Steering Components. Moog R- The warranty on Series Control Arms, Hub Assemblies, and Strut Assemblies is three years. Moog guarantees that their parts will be free of defects in materials and/or workmanship for the duration of these timeframes, which begin on the date of purchase. If a Moog part fails due to a materials or manufacturing defect while it is still under warranty, we will replace it once the defective part is returned.
The Moog K80066 sway bar link is not compatible with your 2007 HONDA CR-V. You should use (1) in this case. (2) Moog K750297 as the FRONT sway bar link, 2 pcs per vehicle, and (3) Moog K750297 as the REAR sway bar link, 2 pcs per vehicle. The REAR sway bar links are Moog K750156 and Moog K750151, left and right, respectively, 1 of each. Please let us know if there is anything else we can do for you, and thank you.
Selected User Reviews For MOOG K80066 Stabilizer Bar Link
If you have a good floor jack, torque wrench, sockets, and don't forget to GREASE, you're ready to go. I was able to save a significant amount of money by using these. It was also simple to put them together. If you have a good floor jack and a torque wrench (harbor freight, baby), you're good to go. With a few basic sockets (available at harbor freight) and a few minutes of your time, you can remove the old parts and replace them in under 20 minutes per side, with videos on how to do so readily available on the internet. If you're only going to do one side, go ahead and do both to save yourself some time later. I replaced my OEM part at 80K miles and will not have to do so again because these replacements can be lubed (the car will die first). Grease is always a mess, but these don't come with any pre-made grease. Because the bushing has no other padding and is greased, they may fail or wear excessively if you don't grease them. Do everything correctly the first time so you don't have to do it again. At Home Depot, you can purchase a small, inexpensive grease gun as well as refills. However, in order to reach, you'll need to purchase a grease gun extension hose. By cutting the wheel first and using an 18" extension, you can grease these with the car on the ground. Buying a grease gun and hose nearly doubled my total cost, but it was still hundreds less than going to the mechanic.
This was used to replace a worn out one on a 2003 Ford Focus's right front. Hold the flat behind the joint with an 18mm thin wrench while tightening it to 38 ft-lbs. lbs. Before you put it together, grease it. To gain access to the fittings after installation, use a grease gun with a flexible hose. To align the holes with the studs, use a jack and jack stand to raise the front corner suspension relative to the body. Tighten the nut all the way with a deep 15mm socket. I was able to use a half-inch drive regular socket, but a 3/8" drive regular socket was too shallow for my needs. br>br>4/1/2018 Update: The grease fittings came uninstalled, and the holes in the link for them were not threaded, cross threaded, or the wrong thread size, so I screwed them in with a 10mm open end wrench, stopping when I thought the torque was approaching the point of snapping the fitting. After that, I greased the link, and no grease escaped from the threads, indicating that the seal is good. Because I put about as much grease in as I took out of the link ball joint, these links were already greased when I got them.
The torque setting is printed on the bag (which is located inside the box). They were able to remove the clunk from the front of my 2007 Focus. It's simple to set up. I would have liked to know if they were greased or not. That was not the case. It was then very easy to grease them excessively. After about 4 good pumps of my mini grease gun, I had grease gushing out around the seal's neck. The seals were not "broken" by it. They let some of the grease drip down the back of the neck. It took a lot of wriggling to get the grease to stop pouring out. It's the equivalent of four store towels. They'll probably do the same thing at the next oil change, too - If the mechanics even notice the fittings exist. On the clear plastic bag was written the torque setting for the nuts. That bit of information almost went unnoticed by me. I had to read it by laying it over some white paper. Would it have killed you to put ONE piece of paper in the box to notify me that I needed to grease - and the torque settings, as well as the amount of grease.
I purchased my car used, with a clean history of previous owners and a variety of approaches to vehicle ownership. It was more of a project car for me, so I expected it to need some work. One of them is pictured above. I discovered that one side of the car had been replaced but not the other, possibly during the clutch replacement. I was out of sync - It's not a big deal, but both of them were wounded. I couldn't get out of the car because of one of them - The other stayed put no matter where you put it. These look fantastic and are significantly more substantial than stock or other alternatives. I'm very pleased with them and anticipate having them on the car for a long time.
It appears that the version received was not the same as the one shown in the photo. On the back end, there isn't a powder-coated metal grease cap. These sway bar end links are more in the style of O'reilys sway bar end links, with no rubber boot on the outside. The bottom of each side has a grease zerk fitting, and I've been using these Moogs since 2010. Despite the fact that the part number is the same, each time I order, I get a slightly different version. Moog doesn't appear to know which version is the most recent or durable.
This is a very sturdy product that went on easily once the old stabilizer bar link was removed. There is one per package. br>br>When I was going over bumps at low speed, the front suspension of my 2010 Ford Focus SES sounded like it was falling apart, with a light rattling/clunking noise. When I took it to the shop, they said they could reproduce the sound but couldn't say which part was broken. They claimed that the noise would only get worse. That didn't go over well with me. This part, according to what I've read, was the one that was broken. It appeared that I could easily correct the situation. So I put on my DIY slacks and got to work. The problem was now solved. The vehicle has a pleasant sound and a pleasant ride. After visiting a number of local businesses (AutoZone, O'Reilys, and others), I came to the conclusion that This was by far the most affordable option.
These came in handy for securing a front-row seat. In a 2008 Focus, the end clunks. Grease fittings were already installed when they arrived. There was some grease in the ball joints from the factory, but it wasn't much, as the joints still felt a little rough. I added two pumps of grease from my grease gun to each fitting, which greatly smoothed out the movement, so I would recommend adding more grease when installing these. The torque specification is 38 ft-lbs. The word "pound" was printed on the plastic bag (why not on paper?). ) vs. The factory torque specification is 41 or 46 ft-lbs.
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