MOOG K750297 Stabilizer Bar Link
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Yes, both the driver and passenger sides are the same.
No idea. My crv's installation, on the other hand, is still going strong. This is an excellent product.
These come with grease fittings on both ends, and yes, you should grease them "somewhat" before installing them. It's a lot easier to just put them on your workbench and squeeze a little grease (NOT TOO MUCH) into each fitting with your grease gun. Keep an eye on the boots until they begin to expand slightly, and then you're ready to go. That's how I completed mine, and it turned out beautifully. Best wishes to each and every one of you!
a
Simply go to Amazon's listing and look up the year/model/make, and so on. You can also enter ALL of your vehicles in the "Your Garage" section of Automotive Parts, and it will tell you if a part "Fits" your vehicle as you look it up! For my Honda CRV 2007, I bought a similar application part. For the front, it has all-wheel drive. Both of them have the same front, whether it's on the left or right.
Selected User Reviews For MOOG K750297 Stabilizer Bar Link
I looked under the car several times, pulling and pushing things that might be causing the noise, but there was nothing there. The noise, which sounded like two pieces of metal hitting each other, only happened at lower speeds and when going over bumps. The noise became increasingly louder as time went on. I changed my oil last week, and after a little more research, I discovered that this part is occasionally the culprit. I yanked hard on the bar, and it gave a little, so I ordered these and installed them last night, crossing my fingers. I'm so relieved that the offending bar came off with little effort and was indeed the source of the noise! Because of an uncooperative bolt on the drivers' side bar, it was a much bigger job, but once that was fixed, the new bar went on without a hitch. The car now handles better and has a more solid feel to it. Most importantly, there will be no more noise!.
Sway bar for the front of the V EX vehicle. I was able to get rid of the rattle in my front suspension. These are significantly less expensive than Honda dealer OEM parts, and they fit perfectly. They also appear to be superior to OEM parts. I greased the fittings after they were installed just to make sure they were greased. The grating noise in the front end is no longer present. After nine winters on snowy, salty roads, I had some difficulty removing the old OEM links from the car because the threads were completely rusted. It only took a hammer, a large set of vice grips, a PB blaster, and a 1/2" ratchet to get the job done. To hold one old OEM joint with vice grips, I had to knock the link off the ball. It takes a lot of strength to do this job.
They're a lot stronger than the factory links they're replacing. The addition of a square "nut" like surface on one side of the bolt that connects the link to the strut at the top and the sway bar at the bottom is a huge improvement over the factory link. You'll know exactly what I'm talking about if you've ever removed the factory link. The factory link's bolts will turn rather than break loose, necessitating the use of a vice grip plier to hold the round washer-like surface in place (without destroying the rubber boot). It took me two hours to cut the bolt off the back side of the factory link's bottom fitting, which could not be broken loose and was extremely difficult to access with any cutoff tool other than a small air cutoff tool or a Dremmel tool. The large compressor was broken, and the small compressor couldn't keep up with the demand for air. Moog links have grease fittings on the top and bottom. Installed on a Honda CRV from 2009.
This Sway Bar Link, which is part of the front (or rear) suspension, is absolutely FANTASTIC, and it's so much "Beefier" than the OE part on my 2007 Honda CRV, which is the front in my case! Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes It has "Grease Fittings" on both ends, which I've never seen on a Sway Bar Link before. That's fantastic, and I'm all for it! Perfect fit, a breeze to install, and it's been working flawlessly for the past three or four weeks. The old ones were a "Bear" to remove, so having an acetylene torch on hand would have been the "Cat's Meow" tool to have. Thank you so much, Amazon and MOOG, for providing such wonderful products. Yes, I did conduct research on this product prior to purchasing it! I'm glad I was able to obtain it.
When it comes to replacement parts for most cars, Moog is fairly well-known. The auto parts stores charge at least twice as much, if not more. However, because they have overhead and employees, the price will inevitably rise. If you know exactly what you want, whether it's here or elsewhere, you won't have to pay their overhead. I believe it was around fifteen dollars each (mid-2021). Now for the links for the sway bar: They appear to be thicker and more durable than the OEM versions, but thicker does not always imply better. Grease fittings help to extend the life of these links, so make sure they're greased properly. Before putting them on, I took them to a shop and had them greased for me (at no cost). Lifting your car should be done with caution, and you should remove the steering wheel to make it easier to work on. Also, the originals have an Allen (hex)keyway to keep the threaded part from spinning, so make sure you're fully in and have the correct tools. Nothing should be rounded off here. To get the links to line up with the holes, you'll need to raise and lower the car, but don't rush it. The Moog links have a block to keep the threaded piece in place, and they use 19mm and 17mm screws, as well as a t30 or t40 Allen wrench, I believe. The OEM link will hold the threaded part still while you test fit without removing the wheel. Overall, the difficulty level is a 2 out of 5 on a scale of 1 to 5. For those of you who are curious about the difference between OEM and Moog, I measured the thickness of both and have included photos for your viewing pleasure.
These appear to be high-quality links right out of the gate. They are much thicker than OEM and have grease fittings, allowing them to be greased. I installed these in January of this year, so it's been just over a year. They tried and failed in the year 2018, and they failed miserably. The noise they made was even worse than the originals they replaced. Fortunately, I hadn't thrown away the originals, as I ended up simply reinstalling them (they had been on the car for 7 years before the switch to Moog) to see if the links were the problem. The noise is no longer audible. The Moog ones were a little loose in the joint and had rough spots when moved around, whereas the old ones, while a little loose, moved around in the joint fairly smoothly. So I'm just going to save my money and buy some new genuine Links. In the meantime, the old genuine is giving me a much quieter ride; I wasn't expecting Moog to perform so poorly.
I just bought these sa way bars for my son's 07 Crv, and I noticed this horrible noise coming from the front. br>I don't know how the previous owner put up with this noise. br>It seemed like the whole car was about to collapse. br>However, despite the fact that they are thicker, my honda mechanic believes they will not last as long as honda ones. br>br>I paid a Honda friend to install them, and when I drove it, it was perfect, with no more noise. This Endlinks is br>br>recommended.
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