ACDelco Advantage 46G0002A Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit with Hardware
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Yes, I believe it will work.
My score is a two. On the 2011 avalanche, there was a 5 inch lift. They're also perfectly functional.
long enough to get things done
Selected User Reviews For ACDelco Advantage 46G0002A Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit with Hardware
This was a very inexpensive way to make a significant and noticeable difference in the handling of my GMC Sierra. I was actually taken aback by the noticeable difference in steering feel.
They used non-rusting materials. Pieces made of stainless steel or that have been rust-proofed. When you slip the metal collar or tube over a bolt, as you might expect, it works perfectly. When they've been on for a year and you want to get rid of them, the problem arises. Rust has fused them together, and the only way to separate them is to cut them apart. I couldn't use my acetylene torch because I didn't have any on hand, so I had to resort to using a grinding wheel. Then I had to go out and buy some original design ones from Car Quest; if you're reading this, go for the ones with the synthetic collar because they'll be removable when you need to do other work down the road. The pile of what they looked like two years later is shown in the photo.
I had them installed within an hour of receiving them, making it one of the simplest repairs I've ever done. The dealer wanted $100 for this repair, but I did it myself for $7. br> The front end of my 2009 Tahoe started to rattle, and I was pretty sure it was the sway bar end links. A quick look under the car confirmed my suspicions: the rubber bushings were shot(and some were missing), and the washers were rattling on the bolt. br> I didn't even have to jack the car up to get the old ones off, though I did need to jack it up a new nut has been installed br>To access the driver's side, turn the wheel all the way right, then all the way left; FYI, the old ones are 15MM, while the new ones are 14MM. The new ones have a slightly different look and feel to them, and they appear to be superior. (More metal, less plastic)br>5 stars, great product, great price, and Amazon had them in my hands in less than two days (ordered Friday evening, delivered Sunday!). ), as well as being extremely simple to set up. br>Oh, and I'm in Arizona, so the old ones were super easy to get off; if you live somewhere with a lot of road salt, you'll probably have to cut the old ones off with a hacksaw, but it should still be super simple.
I read some customer reviews and noticed that the bolt length was a problem for some of them. It was easier to cut out the link on my 2011 Silverado because it had broken. After removing the old unit, I installed the new one and noticed that the bolt was too short; my first thought about the bushings was that the little nipple should go in the washer because of the way it fit. After thinking about it, the holes in the sway bar and control arm are the same size as the nipple, so it was too short once I put it all together. I flipped all the bushings and tapped the bottom of the bolt a few times with a hammer, which gave me just enough room to begin the nut. My only criticism is that it did not include a locking nut. I'm confident that the bushing's pressure will keep it in place. Just in case, I threw in some locktight. My issue has been resolved.
It appears to work, but the brand that came with the vehicle has a larger bolt, and the kit I received lacked nuts. Fortunately, I had received a mystery box full of nuts and bolts, so I was able to find some to go on the bolts. It was simple to install, looks good, and rides well; we'll see how long the rubber bushings last. . . personally, I prefer the old style that came with the vehicle because it lasted 123000 miles.
It can be difficult to order this part because it is not a direct replacement for the factory-installed part. a stabilizing link was installed This is an older version of the design, with the metal tube. Instead of the low-cost OEM plastic link, use an and-bolt. Aside from that, the fit and function are flawless; no adjustments are required. With common mechanics' tools, the installation takes five or ten minutes (longer if you hoist the vehicle first, but it can be done quickly right on the floor). It cures a lot of stabilizer-related issues. GM truck platforms have been plagued by noise, vibration, and handling issues for several model years.
br>For a do-it-yourselfer, the installation is fairly simple. Using a 16mm screwdriver, remove the hardware on both sides of the truck. This enables you to rotate the stabilizer bar to create a gap for new hardware to be installed. Install new hardware on one side of the truck, ensuring that the nipples are inserted into holes on the A-frame. (Important) arm/stabilizing bar Install hardware on opposite side of truck and torque to spec (17ftlb in my case). New hardware is 15mm, so torque the opposite side.
These were not made in the United States, according to another reviewer. That was the case with me. Rubber was molded into the design, which was then printed on the box. The nuts were not lock nuts, according to another reviewer; however, they are lock nuts, just not the plastic insert variety. These had dimples on every other flat, deforming the nut and making it impossible to screw on completely by hand. I'm glad I ordered these, and at this price, I wouldn't hesitate to order them again.
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