ACDelco 45G20642 Professional Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit with Hardware
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Yes, they're polygamous. It's a good investment. I just finished installing it on my 2500hd. This is a fantastic option.
I already had the originals, and all I wanted to do was replace them on my 2002 1500hd. It was necessary to replace a few end caps.
Because the stabilizer bar is attached to the truck frame and the end links are attached to the upper "A" arms, I'm pretty sure these won't accommodate a lift. The link bolts will have to be longer.
Yes, I believe it will function. On my 2002 Avalanche Z71 4wd, I installed them. There isn't really a torque specification. The goal is to tighten them until the bushings flatten out to the same size as the washer, or slightly larger.
Selected User Reviews For ACDelco 45G20642 Professional Front Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit with Hardware
I'm not sure why there are so many positive reviews. This is not the same part(s) that the factory installs on the truck. Because the bolts are much shorter than the factory parts, even the smallest lift on your torsion bars will put them under more stress. In order to provide more clearance for the rubber brake hose above it on the control arm, the stock end links use a sleeved and threaded washer instead of just a nut at the top. On top of that, they forgot to include one washer, so I won't be able to use this kit even if I wanted to.
These bushings fit my Silverado perfectly, and they appear to be of good quality so far. These end links are just short enough that you can't start the nut when installing them (even with the truck's full weight on the ground). I tightened the bushings to seat using the old compressed bushing on the very top. Then, with the new bushing on top, it was a breeze to get the nut started.
My 2003 Chevrolet Silverado has 177,000 miles on it. For easier access, I had to jack up the front of the car and remove the wheels. Because there is no nut, I had to use a vise to secure the original tops. There was also a lot of nut-based stuff. To get rid of the old sets, you'll have to use a buster. It was difficult to thread the new nut on top of the new bars, but I managed to do so. I also replaced the stabilizer bar bushings with Moog polyurethanes to complete this job, which was not a huge upgrade but very nice. It looks great in curves and feels even better.
I just put these in last weekend and so far I'm very happy with them. At the same time, I replaced the bushings in the stabilizer, also known as the sway bar. The thermoplastic bushings are a significant improvement over traditional elastomeric bushings. These are similar to polyurethane bushings, but they don't require any grease to prevent squeaking, according to the manufacturer. I didn't want to take the chance of them squeaking, so I used a small amount of high-temperature silicone grease to help with assembly even if it wasn't necessary to avoid squeaking. The bolts could be a little longer, which is my only criticism. They're about a quarter inch shorter than the stock end link bolts, so threading the nuts on required nearly complete loosening of the stabilizer bushings. Everything went smoothly once they got started. I tightened the bolts until there were about seven threads visible. Because the nuts are oval lock nuts, they should not come loose. Although I could have tightened them even more, the preload felt adequate, and the bushings were fully seated when I began. If I find that they need to be adjusted in the future, I'll update this.
Here's a hint: they're difficult to put together. Install the bottom nut, then use a hydraulic bottle jack to jack up the bottom end, compressing the bushings and allowing the top nut to be started. I struggled with this for a long time until I realized what I needed to know, and then it was easy as pie. Bushings and replacement parts of high quality.
The new ACDelco links were simple to install, but they required removing both sides of the old ones first. New bushings had been installed previously to keep the bar from rotating, but WD- Use Vise Grip pliers on top and a 13mm ratchet on the bottom to remove the top nut. Returning to the beginning, the long bolt head and nut are 14mm in diameter. Nuts with three or four protruding threads that have been tightened.
A review of the DELCO 45G20642 air conditioner. Do not purchase this item if you want to use it in your 2004 Chevy Express 2500; the only thing that will fit are the blue rubbers. br>The product is of good quality, with polyurethane rubbers and sturdy hardware, but it does not match the original part of the 2004 Chevy Express: the screw is 1/2 inch longer (see photo 1), the spacer is 3/4 inch longer (see photo 2), and the nut is a standard, whereas the Chevy nut uses a special nut (see photo 3). Finally, I chose to use only the blue rubbers with my original used hardware.
It's incredibly simple to install, and there's no need to remove the wheel or jack it up. It took about 15 minutes per side after loosening up the sway bar.
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