(2) MADE IN USA Front Sway Bar Stabilizer Links Mountaineer Pickup Explorer Ranger Ram
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I'd check with the seller because I'm not sure.
There is no difference in performance between these and the stock market. If the rubber bushings have worn out, this is a replacement part. If they have, the ride quality will be restored to its original state.
Hello, yes, it will work. Thank you very much.
Hello, the length of your sleeve is five inches. 5 inches. Thank you for your consideration.
Selected User Reviews For (2) MADE IN USA Front Sway Bar Stabilizer Links Mountaineer Pickup Explorer Ranger Ram
I began to hear a strange thumping in the front end of my vehicle and noticed that it was becoming wobbly. When I looked underneath the truck, it was clear: The link between the swaybars had broken. Dang it. Amazon comes to the rescue once again. br>br>The replacement part is a far cry from the mostly-used original. You'll need a 5/8" combo wrench, 11/16 socket, small plastic hammer, and a floor jack to replace the OEM part, which is a plastic OEM part that fits perfectly. To raise the sway bar and give yourself more room to work with, jack up the **OPPOSITE SIDE** of the vehicle. Installing both sides should take no more than 15 minutes. [Ford Ranger 2WD 2011, 2011].
Because I live in Florida, I don't have to deal with rust, so I'm not qualified to comment. However, for the price, they're adequate; I ended up replacing the bushings with the 9. Because they're larger, Energy Suspension's 8103G bushings are recommended. br>br>The bolts are 7/16 in diameter, and the new bushings are a perfect fit. For reference, I included pictures of a tape measure. The bushings will not squeak if you use 3M silicone paste on them. br>br>Recent changes: br>br> After 6 months, the sleeves have developed rust. This is simply due to driving in the rain in Florida. If there's salt on the road, I'm sure it'll be a lot worse. Painting them prior to installation is a good idea. Aside from that, they're still in good shape.
On my 2002 Ford Ranger 4x4, I installed these. It took about 20 minutes to put them in, with the majority of that time spent removing the old ones from the truck. There was no need for me to jack anything up or turn the wheels or anything like that. Simply thread the bolt through the top washer and bushing, then through the sway bar, then the next bushing and washer, then the spacer tube, then the next washer and bushing, then through the control arm and hang it there until the other side is done. Once both sides are done, tighten the last bushing, washer, and nut a little at a time until both sides are snug. They are extremely comfortable to wear. My Ranger and I run a mail route, so we'll see how well the bishings hold up over time. I had to use a Sawzall to cut out the stock ones because they had completely disintegrated. This product has high hopes, but I doubt there is a better buy for the money.
My 2001 Ranger was a perfect match for this. I recommend that you use a sawzall or a grinder with a cutoff wheel to remove the old ones before installing them. It'll make things a lot easier for you. To make the installation easier, lift the vehicle off the frame and install both sides at the same time. It will be necessary to use a 11/16 socket and a 5/8 wrench. My truck's front end noise was reduced by using these.
When I looked underneath, I discovered that one of my sway bar links had broken! After a quick search on Amazon, these appeared to be the best value for a pair of links, while local parts stores were asking nearly the same price for a single link. They arrived the next day, disassembled and with instructions on how to tighten them. When comparing the new link to the old link, the distance between the control arm and the sway bar is almost identical. The bolt is a little shorter than the nut that comes with it, but it's long enough to keep everything together safely. It was extremely simple to set up. The most difficult part was removing the old, rusted ones! The best part is that I didn't even need to take the wheels off! To get easy access to them, simply turn the wheels all the way left or right. Around turns, everything appears to be quieter, and the front end appears to be firmer. If you need new sway bar links, I highly recommend these!.
The only reason I gave them four stars instead of five was because the one I used on the passenger side of my Ranger required a bolt with a few more threads than the one it came with. I couldn't compress the passenger side far enough to get the nut to bite into the bolt, so I ground about an eighth of an inch off the bottom rubber piece to make it fit so I could start the nut and tighten it down.
The bolts included in this kit are suspect, with the letters WS emblazoned on top of them. I'm guessing "Wood Screws" is what it means. So I looked it up, and sure enough, that's what WS stands for. for! I believe that automotive brake and suspension hardware (bolts, nuts, washers) should be grade 8 or 10 at the very least. 9 class. No matter how good the bushings are, I'm not interested. I can't/won't use these on my vehicle or any other vehicle I'm responsible for! The last one (of a different brand) on the passenger side of my truck lasted just over a year. It tore my CV joint boot after snapping off the lower control arm! That will not be repeated. I'll get the proper hardware and poly-styrene. Somewhere else, there are plastic bushings.
Simply remove and replace for a simple installation. If your old ones are rusted on, instead of breaking your back trying to remove them, cut them off with a wheel saw. My steering and handling have both been improved. My worn out shock absorbers were exposed by these new bushings, so those will be replaced next. With only a few basic hand tools, you can easily install it in your driveway. br>br>Bushings appear to be of good quality; however, they should not be overtorqued. Although they should be snug, the bushings should not be "squished. ".
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