OTC 6497 Pitman Arm Puller, Max. Spread 3 1/4 in
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by 3/8ths at bracket length, 1 inch by 3/8ths at bracket width, 6 inches by 3/8ths at bolt height, 2 inches by 3/8ths at bolt holding arms on bracket, and 4 8nches by 3/4 inches at bolt holding jaws.
It was used on a 2011 Ford I was very pleased with it
According to the diagram, the minimum should be 1 5/8".
The grind just makes the work harder.
Selected User Reviews For OTC 6497 Pitman Arm Puller, Max. Spread 3 1/4 in
I bought the truck used as is, lift height and lift company unknown, but I'd say it has a 4 inch lift with a pitman arm drop in the front. But after about 20,000 miles, she started driving erratically like a drunken date on a road trip. Since I was running oversize tires, I contacted Redhead and they provided me with the overbuilt U variant for my truck. As soon as the new part arrived, I unboxed it and started working on it. In the event that you don't want to learn anything further, yes, this puller works. However, I wish to make a point. In the past I have spoken about my experience with buying a used truck that was lifted by the former owner or a company that was paid by the former owner. I dropped the drag link from the pitman arm removed my hydraulics, and removed the old bed box. It was an instant disappointment when I found out that the company which lifted the vehicle failed to torque the pitman arm nut to the steering box intermediate shaft which caused excessive wear so I didn't need the puller because the damn thing just dropped To prove to myself that I am the man I am, I mocked up the box on the bench with the drop pitman arm and torqued that nut as Ford says on a bench with a vise. I got it done even though it was not recommended. The lift perch was exactly where I was going to mount the box if I attempted to mount it on the truck. I know what you are thinking, but, it was the only option. Putting my false bravado to full use, I clocked the arm straddling the intermediate shaft in the wrong position since this is a 3 spline It was necessary to pull the box back out, and this is where the puller came in handy. I don't think it's a joke that 350 foot pounds are being used. However, what about the pulling mechanism? Not a problem at all. As soon as we tugged a couple good times, it fit around the pitman arm and pulled her right off. For the span, there was no need to replace any bolts. I would say this nut puller would work well enough for most over that low profile jobber that they're gonna gouge you for $175 more than this one cost. Take your time and don't be a dummy. Use That picture between your legs is not the one I'm talking about. How can we use what we've learned to help us? There is no way it can lift a 350 pound pitman arm off a tapered intermediate shaft, even with a fresh torque. The puller held steady at 350 foot pounds regardless of how much torque was applied. There is no doubt that it will When I had to drive the screw shaft with the puller, I had to use a 1in socket or box wrench, if you were.
It was necessary to change seals on a spur gear box for a sheppard m80. Water is being transported in a 10 wheel international This thing has a pitman arm just under four and a half inches long. I couldn't use any of my other pullers because they were too small. As much as I would like it to work, I was hoping it would. This puller is $240, and I didn't think that option was attractive. Thought I would take this one for a spin. I had to put a little redneck engineering into this, but it worked!.
I am standing in front of this massive pitman arm on my Ford Super Duty 7 from 2001. I put this thing on 3 and it came off like butter. Having used it so many times when putting lifts on my friends' trucks with drop pitman arms, I know how useful it is. It's just a matter of tightening up the butterfly nuts hand tight and giving the Milwaukee 1/2 impact a go. There are several trucks in this group, including but not limited to the following 1995 Dodge Ram 2500, 1999 Ford Super Duty, 2005 Dodge Ram 2500, 2009 GMC Sierra 2500.
This 2003 Ram 2500 is in good condition. There is still a chance this puller would be a good one if the teeth/fingers, whatever they are called, on the jaws were not I tried to pull the pitman arm on a 2003 Ram 2500 using this tool. It was impossible for the teeth to get into the gap between the steering box and pitman arm due to their thickness. In order to accomplish this task, these would need to be modified on a grinder. The tools I buy are from Home Depot. The tools that I make are not mine. A tool that I have to modify to make it do its job is junk in my eyes. Conceptually it is a good puller, but it is not very functional.
This is a great It is evident when you pick up the tool that it is heavy duty. A certain amount of weight is attached to it. Apparently the pitman arm had become stuck in the middle of the workstation. In another instance, other tools broke from the strain of trying to remove it. This tool worked like a charm with only one attempt. Because of its high profile, you need to partially disconnect some components before using it, but that does not negatively affect its performance once it is up and running. Phone Number
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It would have been better to buy this tool first, but I first bought a cheaper version that was not viable Working perfectly, this tool saved me a ton of time. Unlike the cheap version, this tub is extremely strong, does not bend, and is very well made. Designed to withstand the test of time and provide long-lasting performance. It just shows you get what you pay for when you buy this.
A few years ago, I bought this to take out the Pitman arm on my Dodge 3500, model year 2003. This seems to be the same front end that was earlier worked on and I feel like I might have overused impact in the past. In an attempt not to break anything, I tried to be gentle with the puller, but I was having no luck. Despite screwing the retainers down tight and hammering on the arm with my impact wrench, something gave. To my surprise, the arm popped off as a result of the beating it took.
A steering box relocation was necessary for my Toyota 4Runner. My previous box sector shaft had been ruined and I used a brand new donor box I had just bought. To kill the old pitman arm, I tapped, warmed, and koiled it until it was dead. The last puller I used blew the threads out of with my breaker bar after I broke three typical auto-parts pullers. With a puller like this, I was able to do all the heavy lifting and barely break To make it fit in the small gap between the gear box and arm, the arms did need to be ground away. My first step was to clamp it after I hooked it up. I followed many other reviews in this regard. My 6' cheater bar made it so that the arm came out of the sector shaft in a satisfying crack, and I did as much weight as possible. I'm seriously impressed by the size of this thing.
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