Moog K6654 Pitman Arm
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I would like to hear what is happening. There are fewer 4 spline vehicles. These include mainly vans and early 1500s before racks and pinions. The answer is 3 90 percent of the time. In order to check, you don't have to take it apart. Just look beneath it and you will see if there are any exposed threads. There may just be a nut at the end of it all. In the event you cannot see any, you can remove the nut (1 5/16 wrench is usually required) so that you can Also, be prepared -- it's just a pain in the a** to land. The worst among them all. This method involves the use of a puller and the BFH. You'll have to loosen your steering box and turn the nut if the steering box is going on a 2500. These three bolts secure the frame in the front of the wheel well of the driver. In case there is anything else you need, let me know. Whenever I can, I'll answer any questions you might have.
The pitman arm on a truck is the only one. Could the end of the rod be what you are thinking about? Located on the drivers side of the steering box is your pitman arm that attaches to your steering rack. During steering wheel operation, the steering rack is stabilized by an idler arm on the passengers' side.
The use of it will be appropriate. The WD 2500 HD I am using it on just now
It fit fine and was exactly the same size as the original on my 2500HD crew cab.
Selected User Reviews For Moog K6654 Pitman Arm
It will take some time for the Moog part to fit and finish as I would like it to. The type of repair parts I buy is mostly OEM and I am extremely picky about them Well, I thought I would share some pointers with those installing this Pitman Arm on a GM vehicle. During this procedure, I remove the skid plate and sway bar (good time to inspect and replace the bushings as well). Having this much space will make working extremely easy for you. Replacement of the pitman arm is difficult because of the cross member found on GM trucks and SUVs that prevents standard pitman arm pullers from working. It is difficult to pull them out sometimes even with a puller, as they are stuck in place so tightly that the puller breaks. There are some sites that advise people to remove the entire steering box to get a puller on there, a big waste of time. The seals in your steering box will be damaged if you heat them up, use a torch, etc. All of that is not done by me. As described in my previous post, I use a cutoff wheel on a power grinder and make a carefully cut in the pitman arm by making a 45 degree angle almost through it. If you don't have a pneumatic such as this one, you can use an electric 4 inch grinder with a cutoff wheel Cut the wheel at a 45 degree angle so that more clearance is provided and the steering box has a smaller chance of being hit. This needs to be done very slowly because you're trying to make a cut that comes within about 1/8" inch of the internal splines on the steering box. You don't want to spend a lot of money on a new steering box, so take your time. Do you remember what I said about taking your time? -) As the cut is made, insert a sharp chisel into the gap. Make sure you smack it with a mini-fist with a lot of force The sledge is. By attempting to crack the rest of the pitman arm steel along the cut line, you should be able to tap the pitman off with the chisel at an angle of downward pressure. The process can be completed in less than 15 minutes, even if you take your time. It is quite common to hear about people spending hours trying to accomplish a task like this. Put just a light coat of water proof grease on the steering box splines for reassembly and you're good to go. Here are some pointers I hope can help.
Not a fake part, but a quality part. Unless you plan to replace it yourself, you will have to spend some time on it, it won't give in easily. You will need a heavy duty puller, a cheater bar and some time if you want to replace it. Therefore, if you need to do it, go out and spray some penetrating oil on it today! It would be nice if WD40 was replaced by As soon as you are done, I will wait. I have removed this part from many vehicles and it has always been one of the hardest parts. I just want to get the torch You should take the time to crank the puller after using penetrating oil until you think you're going to lose it. When the puller is mounted, and it seems at the maximum pull to tap/hit the pitman arm around the mount, this does help prevent the shaft from slipping. My H2 had to be dropped because of the steering gear box, resulting in very limited I worked on it for a couple hours, beating and cranking and spraying in the end and noticing it slipped a 1/16 now that As I watched the mayhem, some friends expected I would have serious injuries from the force on the wrench and cheater bar, and they were surprised nothing broke and equally surprised when the wrench gave out. I wish you the best of.
The fit for my 2WD 6 is perfect. 2004 2500hd 0LQ4 standard cab hard bed. Used to be able to simply cut off the pitman arm, but now I don't know how. I couldn't hit it hard enough to knock it off, and that will damage the steering box. You have no chance of getting it off if you beat If you remove the sway bar, you may want to add an energy suspension sway bar kit while it's off remove the pitman arm and cut it with a cut-off wheel. I used a 4" dewalt grinder. Wear a coat and glasses, and it will practically come When removing the pitman arm from the gear box, make sure you pull the pitman out of the center drag link. The gearbox stinks and you should not cut it if you don't want to damage it.
To get my truck back on the road, I was forced to purchase a secondhand component that was of lesser quality locally and cost more. The return was handled by the seller without any issues.
I was able to use my two groove steering gear from my 2002 2500HD The best stuff is made by Moog. Please note If I change a steering gear, I find the pitman arm needs to be replaced, as I don't have the puller and it isn't.
The pitman and idler arm on my 1500HD failed inspection because they were worn out. A new one would cost $450 from the shop. My experience ended up having me go to Amazon and purchase a pitman, idler arm, and idler arm bracket for a much lower price. My tires had to be changed in about three hours, including taking the steering box off because the pitman arm would not come Also, I added a Cognito steering kit to bring the suspension up to par. I'm amazed at how much easier the road is now since the truck does not wander all over the place. When I put the crappy tires on, I thought it might be the tires. A new pair of arms proved to be all that was needed. I bought these Moog parts on Amazon because they appear sturdier than stock and are cheaper than buying them directly from Moog.
This was used on a 08 duramax Z71, replacing all steering components with MOOG, and I could tell a significant It turned sluggishly, had loose threads, and was The new version is better than the old one. MOOG was never an issue for me and I have used it in all my cars and trucks. This is a highly recommended product!.
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