APDTY 688013 Fuel Gas Tank Filler Neck Tube Pipe Fits 1990-1997 Ford Ranger 1994-1997 Mazda B-Series Pickup (Includes Hose & Clamps Does Not Fit Flareside) (AL5Z9034A, AL5Z9034C, F47Z9034, ZZM042210C)

The 97 Ranger XLT is a perfect fit. The bed is held in place by six bolts located inside the bed. Remove all four front bolts. Back out the two bolts near the tailgate, but leave at least a half inch of the bolts screwed in. Simply lift the bed and tilt it back, then support it with a 2 x 4 piece of wood. I did it all by myself; all I needed was my wife to stick a two-by-four in the middle. There are four people in the room to keep the bed from falling over. Before tilting the bed, be sure to remove the three screws from the filler neck beneath the gas lid. Remove the old assembly and replace it with this one by unscrewing the hose clamp at the top of the gas tank. Tighten the hose clamp at the bottom, but leave it loose at the top because you'll need to twist the neck of the inlet spout to line up the three screw holes. Tighten your hose clamp after that is screwed in place. T-bolts are used in the bed. Heads that are 55 Torx. Depending on how rusted they are, you may need to spray them with PB Blaster first, then break them loose with a breaker bar or a cheater bar, then back them out with an impact wrench. I used Permatex anti-seize on all of the bolts in case I had to remove them again in the future. Because I had to remove a bed liner first, it took me an hour and a half from start to finish. br>Ford would most likely charge you $400-$500. This hose will set you back $500 if you do not replace it. This hose was valued at $160 by Orielly's. br>It's been 9/16/20 and it's still going strong.

Kinslee Gardner

| Dec 05, 2021

Truck with a 0L 2WD STYLESIDE engine. I bought it used a few months ago, and the previous owner warned me not to fill it up all the way because the nozzle would not shut off. I tried it anyway, and lo and behold, the nozzle did shut off, but only after a lot of gasoline sprayed on the ground. Isn't he a knucklehead? In any case, I did some YouTube research. When I went to buy the part locally in Hawaii, they said it would cost $110 and that it would have to be ordered from California. I politely declined my local auto parts store's offer after doing some research on Amazon. Amazon was quick to deliver. Although it appeared to be the correct part, there was no way of knowing until it was installed. With the help of a lift, I was able to lift the bed off the frame, remove the old one, and voila! The new one was a perfect match for the old one. Recommendations: The small hose that goes down into the tank had an APDTY sticker on it. Remove it to keep your fuel filter from becoming clogged. Also, before lowering the body, disconnect the metal filler part of the assembly and mount it to the filler hole, then fit the hose over it and tighten the clamps. It was difficult to mount to the filler hole while it was still attached to the assembly. This part is highly recommended; you can buy just the large hose part that normally fails, but you might as well get the entire assembly because it fits perfectly. I'll let you know if it doesn't work out in the next 12 months. However, it is extremely durable, and I don't expect it to break down anytime soon. Take a look at the old one's photo. It's no surprise that gas was leaking out! Also, slowly raise the box and inspect it for any potential snags. I disconnected the license plate light wiring harness and wires, but there was a spring connected to the box, which was also connected to the E Brake cable. I'm glad I noticed that before I jacked up the cable.

Kashton Compton

| Feb 08, 2021

I looked for months for a solution to the fuel filler on my 1987 Ranger standard bed, standard cab, but all I found was a $110 outer hose. I have a 90 of the same model, and during an overhaul, I had to replace the fuel filler. I was able to compare the differences between the two and found that there are very few. The OEM 90's outlet has a STEEL reinforcement tube that isn't needed (or desired at this time) because it causes the hose to fail. There are none on the 87. NONE, (PERFECT! ), in the AMAZON replacmeent. The steel inlet neck on the 1990 model sticks out much further than the one on the 1987 model, which is buried in the outer hose (on OEM models). The Amazon replacement is a carbon copy of the original model from 1990. The steel inlet must be inserted "per vehicle" at a specific depth so that the outer hose has just enough flex length but isn't so long that it kinks at the upper bend on the 1987 and 1990. So loosen the clamp, press the upper section into the outer tube easily, test fit, adjust, rotate the filler until the screw pattern fits your car, and you're finished. Finally, I don't believe the OEM assemblies from 1987 or 1990 are as well-fitting as the Amazon replacement. Even though the outer hose length varies from year to year, the inlet and outlet hose diameters are correct for BOTH years, and the hose is "ADJUSTABLE" as previously stated and will fully adapt. The outer hose is protected from chafing by a metal RUB protector mounted on the bed wall. Excellent product; I can't speak to its longevity, but it should fit from 1983 to the present. STD BED has a rating of 90, and STD CAB has a rating of 100. I'm going to buy another for my 1987 project gruck because it's so good.

Dulce Anderson

| Oct 19, 2021

Continue reading to learn more. I was pleasantly surprised by the product, which was exactly as described. br>br>It appeared to be made of high-quality rubber. The holes for the fill mount under the gas cap were right on dead nut, so I used my original hardware with an impact driver (overkill) and went in easy. br>br>And the holes for the fill mount under the gas cap were right on dead nut, so I used my original hardware with an impact driver (overkill) and went in easy. br>br>Instead, I chose to use an old gas cap with a good o-ring. It was a perfect fit for the ring seal. br>br>With the help of a friend and a can of WD-40, I was able to remove the bed in preparation for the installation. Before and after removing the six bed bolts. To make things go faster, I used the right torque head bit, a breaker bar, and my impact driver.

Jazmin Boone

| Feb 28, 2021

I was past the return period because it took me over a month to restore the truck. I should've purchased OEM instead. Is it possible for me to learn? To connect it to the cap, I had to hack it together using a 4inch screw and about 12 nuts. I did the measurements before I bought it, so it was false advertising.

Roger Whitaker

| Dec 28, 2021