1993-1997 Ford Ranger Fuel Tank Filler Neck/Tube With Fill Hose & Clamp
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In the description of the one I received, it stated that it did. I live in California, and our gasoline contains a wide range of contaminants. The one I got is fine; the one that came with the truck was not designed for ethanol, which I believe is why it and so many other Ranger fuel hoses failed.
This is the most concise way of expressing it. A 1993 Ranger, for example, can be outfitted with 1990-1994 parts. I wouldn't put that much trust in a part without first consulting Ford.
The Ford part number for the filler tube I replaced is unknown to me, but this part is a near-identical replacement. My truck is a 1993 Ford Ranger XLT with a 6 foot bed and standard cab. It's difficult to put it together while the bed is in place.
Technically, this is made for a six-foot bed.
Selected User Reviews For 1993-1997 Ford Ranger Fuel Tank Filler Neck/Tube With Fill Hose & Clamp
Soak the 6 bed bolts in penetrating oil the night before they are installed. To loosen them up, use a breaker bar. Use impact on the four closets that lead to the cab. The two that are the most closely related are the ones that are the longest. I had the two furthest back loose, but I didn't take them out. Remove the gas cap, two volts, and one screw that holds the filler tube in place on the bed. Ask a friend to assist you in tilting the bed backwards. Take a couple of folding chairs and use them to prop up the bed. It isn't overly burdensome. Remove old bed bolts using a wire brush and brake cleaner. If you have one, use it to run a thread chaser over them. Place a piece of wood between the frame and the bed. Just in case you have a busy day ahead of you and won't be able to meet with Jesus today. To remove the hose clamp, use a 7 or 8mm screwdriver. Remove the old neck filler. Make sure there's no crud in there. Examine the differences between the new and old filler necks. Clamps should be adjusted to the same length. With some silicone spray, the new filler neck glides on much easier. Since you're already there, I'd suggest doing the gas pump. Disassembly is followed by installation. Enjoy refueling without fear of a bomb going off. br>Estimate number two. I drove for 5 hours, pausing occasionally to play on my phone and eat lunch. br>br>The fit was excellent, and I would purchase them again.
I removed the old cracked fuel line that appeared to have been eaten up by the Ethanol that is now in the gas and replaced it with this fuel filler, which came with everything I needed to replace my old fuel filler line. I was guilty of overfilling the gas tank, which I will no longer do after this experience. I did use another reviewer's YouTube link, which saved me a lot of time, money, and heartache by reducing the amount of work required to drop the entire tank. So far, this setup has worked out well. I finished the job in about an hour.
This part was originally purchased at a local auto parts store in order to get the vehicle back on the road as soon as possible. The "Spectra Premium" part sold in local stores was Chinese, and all three I examined had the filler body flange welded incorrectly. Finally, I gave up and went to Amazon to order this part from APDTY. It's Chinese, just like the $177 "Premium" part, but it's properly welded and fits perfectly. The hoses appear to be resistant to ethanol (E85), which was likely the issue with the OEM part, and Ford's price on this item is ridiculous. Shipping is extremely quick. br>br>After my girlfriend complained about a gas odor after filling the tank, I ignored/forgot about it until she moved to California due to a family illness. Until a few months later, when I drove the car and gas poured out of the top of the tank after making a hard right turn onto an Interstate entry ramp. It's a miracle that neither the vehicle nor I are charred corpses. Because the volatiles and ethanol won't evaporate as quickly as you can pour them in, replacing a defective filler saves gas and improves air quality. Definitely worth the time and effort, as well as a genuine safety concern. br>br>While shop manuals often state that the tank should be removed from below, trust me when I say that removing the truck bed makes it far easier to replace this part, which would otherwise be difficult due to limited clearances and the need to reach the top of the tank to access the clamps and connectors from underneath the car. There's also no need to be concerned about snagging your tank straps. I took it out and put it back in again. I built the bed myself, using a few short 2x4 scraps to protect the pump, sender, and wiring from damage and provide a "ramp" for re-filling the tank. the setting up The entire process took less than two hours, and the vehicle's tires were never lifted off the ground. On the T-bolt, I'd recommend using some heavy wheel bearing or marine grease. When re-assembling the bed, use 55 Torx fasteners. installing to help prevent future rust problems, particularly for those who live in areas where the roads are salted in the winter. Similarly, use a good rust-penetrant and work slowly when removing the bolts to avoid breaking them. Working the bolts out slightly, then back in, then out again, with rust penetrant sprayed from below on those bolt threads you can reach, may also help.
My 1993 Ranger was in desperate need of a new filler hose. When I saw the Dorman one in a parts store, I wasn't impressed at all. br>I found this one while searching on Google. It was listed on Amazon, where it received nearly 78 positive reviews. br>It went in without a hitch. The shape and size of the original setup is 100% identical to that of the original setup of the original setup of the original set br>br>This is the hose you need to buy for the price and the quality of the rubber, especially the filler neck piece! If you remove the bed or the fuel tank, installation is a breeze. br>I didn't do either because I cheated. In about 3 hours, I was able to completely remove and replace the neck by weaseling it in place.
This dealer part is ridiculously expensive; I'm glad I found it, but I'm skeptical about the quality. When I received it, I was ecstatic because it appeared to be of excellent quality. By lowering the tank, I was able to complete my installation. Although an extra inch or two of length would have been extremely beneficial, we were able to make it work. Definitely requires two people. One to pull and hold it up to the fuel door, and one on the other side to drive in the screws. The original gas cap fits, and the nozzel triggers the shut off as it should when fueling up. Although a couple of reviews stated otherwise, I did not have any issues. This was installed in the long bed of my 1993 Ford Ranger standard cab. br>br>UPDATE: br>br> It's been over a year and it's still running smoothly, with no leaks or gas leaking onto the ground after a fill-up. It's an absolute must for this price.
I'd read in a few other reviews that you might have to stretch it a little to get it to fit properly. I thought to myself, "What the heck, it's not a big deal. " I attach the device to the tank and stretch until I think I'm going to pull the tank off! So I figured it'd be easier if I attached it to the filler opening first, then pulled it down to the tank. Hahaha! I was pulling so hard in that direction that I thought I was going to collapse the bedside! I finally gave up and went to a local parts store to purchase a replacement. This piece of garbage is not worth your time or money!.
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