for 1997-2003 Ford F150 / 2004 Heritage LED 3rd Third Brake High Mount Light Cargo Light Stop Lamp (Red)
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Although I did not film the installation, there are a few videos available on YouTube. Simply google "how to change or replace the third brake light on a 97-" and you'll find a wealth of information. Ford F-150, year 2003 150".
They're a 10 course thread screw that's about 2" long, and you can find them at any good hardware store, including Lowe's, which has a large section of specialty screws.
The 3M hvb heavy duty adhesive backing is included. I would highly recommend it for both the brake and cargo lights because it is extremely bright.
This unit includes a connector that is interchangeable with the headliner's OEM mating connector. It's as simple as that. To gain access, I only had to remove the headliner's passenger rear corner.
Selected User Reviews For for 1997-2003 Ford F150 / 2004 Heritage LED 3rd Third Brake High Mount Light Cargo Light Stop Lamp (Red)
I bought this lamp to replace the old one in my f150, which I'm currently restoring. Because I don't drive the truck very often, the battery died due to inactivity. When I went inside to turn off the alarm and pop the hood, I noticed that the dome light appeared to be damp. I popped it open and sure enough, there was something inside. The entire headliner, which I replaced only a few years ago, is soaked, and there is moisture inside this light assembly as well. If you buy it, don't use their shoddy seal; instead, make your own. In the 24 years that I've owned the truck, I've never had a leak at the third brake light until I installed this light. I'm extremely dissatisfied with this outcome.
03 F150s. This item replaces your OEM 3rd brake light, and the led version looks fantastic. Its halogen counterparts don't even come close to illuminating the bed. Keep in mind that in order to reach the plug, you'll have to remove the back portion of the headliner. You can always cut the original wiring and connector off of the new unit and use butt connectors if you don't want to go through all that trouble. In general, I give it a 9 out of 10 rating.
It's extremely bright, which I like. However, there are a few issues with the product's quality. br>br>The round, black rubber grommet that attaches to the truck sheet metal (and through which the wires pass) is too small for the factory hole in the truck to seal properly. Furthermore, the grommet has four holes for the wires to pass through, but only three wires are present. The fourth hole remains unfilled as a result of this. This is where water will enter your truck, as mentioned by a few other reviewers, between the undersized grommet and this fourth, empty hole in the grommet. As you can see in the photo, I fixed the problem with some black RTV. This has nothing to do with the long, foam, adhesive "gasket" that comes with the light and is designed to wrap around the entire body. I'm not sure why this gasket is included; it's unnecessary and ineffective. That gasket would only be effective in sealing the light's body to the window trim (gray plastic in my example). It's not supposed to be, but the window trim isn't sealed to the truck's sheet metal body. Consider the fact that there is no such gasket on the factory light. The wiring grommet at the truck sheet metal is responsible for the watertight cab seal. br>br>Also, where the three wire bundles enter the body of the light, they pass through three smaller rubber grommets that were not tight enough to keep moisture out. With a little RTV, I was able to fix these as well. br>br>Due to manufacturing flaws, one of the electrical connector's pins was unable to fully engage in the locked position. When I connected the connector to the truck electrical connector, the wire started pushing out the back of the connector, which I didn't notice until I was almost finished with the installation. With the help of an X-acto knife, I was able to carefully remove the excess flashing. It was just an additional step to use the acto knife and get the pin to fully lock into place. This light's electrical connector is of much lower quality than the factory connector. You definitely get what you pay for, and the light was made in China. The pins are much more fragile, the plastic is much thinner, and so on. Finally, I installed mine without having to remove the headliner or upper seat belt shoulder mounts. I simply removed the rear dome light and the two large plastic "rivets" aft of it. This gave me just enough space to flex the headliner down (without creasing it) and finish the job. br>br>Overall, the light is pleasing to me. I wasn't expecting a high level of quality for the price. Before you begin, make sure your electrical connector is in good working order and that you have some RTV on hand to seal things up. My third brake light bulb receptacles had become a gooey mess as the material was breaking down, so I bought this.
The bed lights are nice and bright. This is far superior to the original. Despite the fact that the product includes a modular plug, the only way to use this connection is to remove the back of the headliner. You'll have to splice and cut the wires if you don't. My headliner was cut and spliced by a friend who owns a body shop, but I was told by a truck specialty shop that dropping the headliner would cost around $200. There are no installation instructions or two new installation screws included with the light. If you can remove the headliner or simply cut and splice, it should be simple enough.
This is a good light for the money, and the LEDs are quite bright. I don't have any complaints because it included everything I needed. A new grommet, a new harness, and even a 3m gasket were all installed. I'm very pleased with it, and I hope it lasts a long time, despite the fact that it requires some effort to set up. To locate the OEM plug, I had to remove the back of the headliner. Despite all of this, the job was relatively simple.
We'll see how longitivity goes, but it appears to be of good quality and was easily installed. I'm not sure why some people are concerned about adhesive foam; it's not required on the F150. The light is permanently attached to the vehicle and is therefore unnecessary; however, the grommet was far too small, so I re-used the original.
This makes me very happy. After watching YouTube, I installed it by myself. While I wouldn't call it an easy job to install because you have to remove interior panels and seat belts, once you have the panels off and can fit your fingers into the tiny cutout in the truck's roof, it's a seamless plug in. The light is extremely bright, and I would even describe it as beautiful. Coming home at dusk, closing the garage door and exiting the truck is one of my favorite things to do. The garage is bathed in a beautiful, bright white light.
To get to the plug, I had to remove the back half of the headliner, but with a Phillips head screwdriver, a plastic body panel tool, and a torx star bit for the seat belts, it was simple enough. The old light was removed using two screws, and the new one was installed directly in its place. The 3M adhesive adhered well to the light but not so well to the truck, which I believe is due to the fact that it was cold when I installed the light. It performs better than the old housing, which I used with halogen and LED bulbs. This is ten times brighter than the LED lights in the old housing, and the cargo light is so bright that I could almost use it to assist me in backing up in the dark at night. If you're looking for a bright, good-looking replacement for your high-mount brake/cargo light, I'd highly recommend this light.
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