Permatex 31163 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 lb
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A brush is built into the lid of this copper color. It's all good. It worked great on the exhaust threads of a BMW R100 with an air head.
I've used antiseptic jars that were already open. The 15-year-olds were seized. br>Once upon a time, I was given four OLD anti-bacterial jars. Taken from a mill that was about to close down. br>I contacted the company, and the representative advised me to apply a light oil (any automotive engine oil) to the problem. br>I put on a nitrile glove and messaged the lumps out of the stuff, using VERY LITTLE oil in the process. br>Any lumps were easily broken up. br>After I finished, I had jars (empty 2 oz. I'm going to give it to my friends in spice jars. Unless you're a professional, this stuff lasts a long time and you don't need much. br>This is the anti-freeze version of the regular Anti-Freeze. If you require a higher level (exhaust systems), get the nickel Anti-Seize. Seize.
Yes, I've been using it for years, since 1992 to be exact, but mostly on new Glocks and only in the same area and manner that Glock does because I like to clean the slide after every use until I get about 1000 rounds or so through it, at which point I stop using it but don't get messy with it because it can get very messy and difficult to get off.
There are many other uses for it as well, but I use it to screw drive my garage door opener.
Selected User Reviews For Permatex 31163 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 lb
Can't some of you figure out how to weigh something on a *scale*? Yes, it comes 12 full, but you DO get 8 ounces of product in the container, which is what you paid for. a brand new container without the brush cap = 8. a brand new container with the brush cap = 8. a brand new container with the brush cap 7ozbr>br>It's not unheard of for some companies to use the same physical container for multiple sizes and fill 'as needed. ' Given that copper has three times the density of aluminum, you might expect the aluminum version to be 'fuller' than the copper (or nickel) version in this case.
I've used it for brake jobs as well as lubricating various items. It really works. The bottle is not 100% "full", yes the bottle is not 100% "full", yes the You're getting 8 ounces of this, but the bottle would be well over 8 ounces if it were completely full. Relax, you'll get exactly what you paid for.
If you're into radios and want a better connection, I'll show you why you should use this product; I've been using it on my antenna connections as a 'feel-good' measure for a while now. I've never been able to prove that it makes a difference, so it's a 'good' product. I used to believe that all of my radios were working better, but after today, I'm no longer so sure. br>br>Installing a CB in these new Cherokees is a pain, so I gave up and went with a mag-mount instead. route for mounting To make matters worse, my Trailhawk has a panoramic roof, which means I don't have much ground plane. I ordered a Browning NMO mag mount because I like to switch between 2M/70cm and 11 meter. I wasn't expecting much in terms of performance, but it was good enough to listen to while driving down the road. I mounted the mount to the 6" wide sheet metal I'd left on the back of the roof and connected the cable to my Anytone 'CB'. I used a NMO to 1/4" adapter, a 4" heavy duty spring, and a 2' Firestik with a tunable tip as an antenna while I waited for my Browning NMO 1/4 wave. When I tune a compromised system like this, I tune the channels I'll be using rather than the 1 and 40 route. I got a 1 when I checked the SWR. I was happy with the first 5 or so on Ch 20 and decided to leave it alone. Then it occurred to me that I hadn't used this copper antiseize on all of my metal-working tools. connections made of metal So I ripped everything apart again, gooped all the threads and center connectors, and reassembled everything. Before calling it a day, I checked the SWR on CH 20 one last time. It was 1. Dang. I figured I'd gone overboard and shorted something, so I unplugged everything, wiped away any excess, and reconnected. Even so, I received a one. Double dang, to be sure. It's possible that my meter isn't working properly. So, after some troubleshooting, I reconnected it and, sure enough, I was still getting a 1 on CH 20. As a result, I switch to CH 1, calibrate, and test, and it stays below 2. This is fascinating. I go to CH 40, calibrate, and test, and I get an SWR of less than 2. I change the channel to CH 19 and calibrate, but the needle remains stationary. WTH? I didn't realize anything was wrong until I got a prescription from a pharmacy 19 miles away. I'm quite taken aback now. It's a magazine, after all. I'm using a 2' antenna, which is already severely hampered, and I don't have a lot of ground plane. It's legit! I just dropped to a SWR of 1 with nothing but some conductive grease. br>I've made up my mind. Whatever happens, I'll always have this stuff on hand for radio work. That is my version of events, and I intend to stick to it.
I had squeaking only at very low speeds after changing my brakes, but after reading the many reviews, I decided to try this item. This product has lived up to the hype in every way. I disassembled my brakes and cleaned them thoroughly with brake cleaner and a wire brush (being careful not to harm any rubber seals). After that, I used this copper lubricant to coat any metal surfaces that the brake pads came into contact with. Squeal has left the building. It's like scratching an itch you haven't been able to scratch in hours.
It's made of copper and has antibacterial properties. seizes and prevents rusted and stuck objects from forming. This company would most likely go out of business if people stopped overtightening things like wheel lug nuts and anything else on a car that they can beat senseless with pneumatic tools. People, on the other hand, are lazy and refuse to use a manual torque wrench to achieve proper torque values, resulting in a high profit margin for this product and company. There are too many sloppy mechanics out there, especially when it comes to putting lug nuts on, so this is a good deal and a good product. CHEERS!.
It prevents the seizing of metal connections. Spark plugs, thermostat housing bolts, and water pump bolts are the most common things I use this for. It's so effective that I've started using it on my car's lug nuts and anything else that comes to mind. The Permatex brand is one of my favorites, and this bottle will most likely outlast my time on this planet. Keeping your knuckles and bolts safe is essential. Use this on anything corrosive, difficult to thread on, or exposed to heat.
It does an excellent job of preventing squeaks and assisting in the smooth operation of the brakes. It also does an excellent job of keeping lug nuts lubed so that they can be removed easily for future maintenance. The cap has a built-in brush for easy application, and the quantity of material in the container will most likely last me for years.
Copper antiseptic is what I use. In a variety of situations, seize is necessary. Installing spark plugs into an aluminum engine block is the most critical step. You don't want these plugs to get stuck in the threads of the block, as this could damage them. How easy will it be to remove a spark plug after 50,000 miles and so many years when you first install it? The plugs will pop out without a fight if you use this stuff. Gaulling, which occurs when dissimilar metals are fastened tightly together, can occur, and this prevents it. I also use it on a lot of bolts and nuts that won't need to be removed for a long time and might get corroded if exposed to wet conditions, like the steel wheels on a shop crane (engine hoist), lawn mower wheels, and most Jeep parts. This is good insurance for the money, and a bottle like this will last a long time.
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