Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder Pc to Joystick for Mame Jamma & Other Pc Fighting Games

tried these as a replacement for the Xinomotek dual controller encoder, since that one was giving me issues on my NVIDIA shield emulation arcade (wouldn't display as two controllers, just one and button mapping was messing up). As an alternative, I purchased two of these and connected them using a USB splitter to one USB port, which worked excellently. Even though the wires weren't too long, they barely reached some buttons, but it was not worth dock points considering how good the price was. On each of the two controllers are all 12 buttons and sticks independent from each other. If you are interested in NVIDIA Shield mapping for these devices, please see the following.

Johanna Robertson

| Mar 25, 2021

In order to use Sim Racing, I created a small button box. In order to make the buttons, I cut the connector ends off the included wires and soldered them to them. I connected it to my PC running Windows 10 and it recognized it as a gaming USB device/joystick and worked straight out of the box. Should I ever need to use this device to make a simple USB button or switch again, I will buy another one.

Daniella Blankenship

| Jan 11, 2021

Update 1/26/2021 So the sellers of this Joystick overlooked a very important aspect of the Joystick. As stated in the questions section, this board does not seem to be compatible with Sanwa parts. I was talking about the Joystick earlier on this page because I believe that this detail alone is to blame. The buttons, however, do function, so I believe this to be the main issue. A joystick I thought was the root of the problem will not work, only to find that it is incompatible! I wasted money buying it just to find out it doesn't work! My original post stated that I purchased the zero delay board with the hopes that I would be able to mod the stick so that it would work with Windows 10 (it does In fact, it was very simple as I did not have to soldier anything and had just to remove the original TE stick's wire harness and replace it with the one provided by the PCB. Despite the lack of wind, the weather was mild. As soon as I connected my stick, my buttons were recognized by the operating system. A joystick issue was the only unfortunate thing that happened. First, it only recognized the right corner of the image, then it started to recognize the remaining right corner In the end, mounting the 5 pin connector on the joystick side resulted in better performance. It only seems to detect the right, left, and up motions of the joystick, and even then they are going in the opposite direction that they should be going. I'm pretty much at my wit's end at this point and I am considering trying another zero delay pcb as it is cheap and most of the work has already been done on For now, I am disappointed that this did not work out. If I ever figure out the problem I will be sure to update the review.

Clayton Fletcher

| Jul 13, 2021

A PCB replacement for the Mad Catz TE Fightstick that had stopped working on my PC was needed for this item. These encoders came with quick connections that were a bit too wide for the buttons I had previously installed, but they worked just fine. It cannot be avoided that the quick connect buttons aren't insulated on their tips, but if you're working with a wood or plastic case, this shouldn't be a big deal. Oddly, when I moved my joystick backwards, I got backwards motion detection In the beginning, my joystick was upside down, left was right, etc. I had to turn it 180 degrees in order to get it to work again. The PS4 version was also working on the PS3, so I'm guessing it would work on the PS3. In fact, I am not sure if there are markings on the outside of the PCB for the Zero Delay that indicate what button should be plugged in, but I found the following button mapping online When I open up my fightstick again, I'll cross reference this with the wiring in my own stick. Beginning with the leftmost row of the bottom row of the PCB and moving in a clockwise direction *Brief description here Angle Punch - Medium (nine-sided)
2. *Circle (Medium Kick)* 3. A classic way to kick hard and far. B (Light Kick)*4. 5 Squares (Light Punch) - 5 A heavy punch is known as R1 (Heavy Punch), which is 6. This is L1 (L + M + H Punch).
8. R2 (Heavy Kick). I suppose I'd call it the L2 (L+M+H Kick)*9. Choose option 10. My PC no longer had any issues registering the fightstick, and after using a custom button mapping on the MvC3 client, it worked well. TE fightsticks come in all shapes and sizes, so if I have another cheap one, I will likely use one of these Zero Delay encoders instead of an expensive Brook encoder.

Niko Lowery

| May 11, 2021

Although it's described as working with analog and digital joysticks, that's not the case. This was purchased for use as an analog flight stick for a simulator and it does not work at all. The arcade is the only place to go. Switches are all you need here, not paddles. The OFF/ON switch. No matter what mode you select, when you calibrate the joystick with a 10K pot, the axis will jump from full left to full right and nothing in between.

Rohan Chang

| May 05, 2021