GSI Creos AMS 121 Gundam Metallic Marker Set
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I use them to paint the eyes on my Gundam models; they take a little getting used to, but once you've done so once or twice, you should be fine. As for sensors, they're super easy to paint with the marker; if you make a mistake, just use alcohol to remove it; never use nail polish remover because it melts plastic. Before applying black around the eyes, make sure your paint is completely dry (it takes about 15 minutes to dry). Depending on the amount of paint used, this could take anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour.
Use rubbing alcohol to clean up large amounts of excess paint, but wait until it dries or it will become very runny and make a big mess; for areas where you can't clean without ruining the paint you want to keep, use a toothpick to scrape the paint off once it's dried; you can use this technique to easily do the trims on the Sinanju, for example.
If you want to paint over the water slide decal, do so first and let it dry. Otherwise, it won't last as long over the decal.
It works well for the 1/144 HG version of the kit, but anything larger and more complex has moving parts for the transformation, and as a result, the paint will easily scratch off. br>So, in a nutshell, yes, but be cautious, and you'll have a very nice and attractive banshee! Spray paint of some kind would be preferable for the master and PG grades.
Selected User Reviews For GSI Creos AMS 121 Gundam Metallic Marker Set
Do you want to turn the yellow parts of your gundam into gold? Apply one coat with the marker, all strokes in the same direction. Done. Do you want to give that metal a brushed aluminum finish? Holding the tip of the marker firmly in a dish, dispense the silver ink, and apply it with a wide flat brush, all strokes in the same direction. Is it true that eye stickers are useless? This shade of green is just as reflective as the foil stickers- if not even more than that! In addition, the red. And then there's the blue. Simply place them on those teeny-tiny eyes, and they will catch the light beautifully. Low effort yields stunning results. br>br> These are excellent for beginners, as well as for those who are more experienced and simply want some simple pre-planning. a mixture of pre- Metallics that have been thinned, and everything else is fantastic. If possible, do it all in one coat; otherwise, it will look a little rough (unless you want the textured look!). This is useful). You can still use these to coat large areas of your kit, even though they weren't designed for it. If you want to turn your RX-1000 completely blue, I'd suggest using a brush. 2 metallic, to maintain a smooth and consistent look. These are also great for small details and bits. Even with just the marker tip, the silver is good for chipping, though a small brush will give you more control. br>br>While we're on the subject of silver, consider the following: If you're using transparent parts, use the silver metallic paint to cover the entire area they'll be on top of. The transparent part will then catch even more light reflecting back into it from the inside, giving it a little more glimmer. You can also apply it directly to the back of transparent parts for a similar effect, but I think the surface it covers works better.
Only a steady hand and some q-tips are required to use these. If you paint outside of the desired area by accident, simply rub it away with a qtip with a light drop of alcohol on it. This technique is especially useful for areas like sensors and thrusters, where you're very likely to paint the rim by accident. You can reach small areas by rubbing some of the paint onto the tip of a toothpick. The green in this set is a dead on match for the green foil sticker that is heavily used in the world of Gunpla, the red was a little too pink when I first used it but the times after that produced just the perfect shade of metallic red and it looks stunning on the thrusters of my Gundam MK II, and the gold is gorgeous and works great for painting in the crotch Vs that are common on UC federation mobile suits like the RX-100. 78 and Jegan, my tip is to carefully run the marker tip over only the sculpted V, then carefully clean up any mistakes with a toothpick dipped lightly in alcohol. In the end, you'll find this much easier to do than dealing with the nightmare that is the yellow V sticker. Although the silver is more of a gray and less shiny than the dull gray used on bladed weapons and mechanical details, it will still work wonders. The panel lining marker does a great job and is just as easy to use as the other markers. Simply run it over the detail you want to panel line, then follow up with a q-tip. You'll be hooked on panel lining once you've done it to bring out the details on a Gundam head by tipping it over. With a little time and effort, you can make your gunpla look better than many pre-production models. On the market, there are painted action figures. br>br>As other reviewers have mentioned, not only should you take each marker around 50 times and press the tip down on a firm surface before using them for the first time, but you should also shake them about 30 times to get the best possible results; if the tip appears to dry, press it down on a firm surface to get it wet again; also, holding the tip pressed down will drain a bit of the paint out handy when using a toothpick or brush. Another thing to remember is not to get stressed out over mistakes because they can be removed with a steady rubbing of alcohol even a week later.
Everything is in order. I really like how shiny it is, and how well it coats. If you don't give them a good shake, the paint will come out in blotches of different colors. I would definitely recommend this product, and I will buy more when these run out.
This is fantastic! I only use the gold and silver, but they're great for painting small details on kits like bolts, tubes, gears, thrusters, and so on. I wouldn't recommend them for a wide application, such as painting a whole part a metallic color; instead, if you want to paint a whole part a metallic color, you should just buy some metallic paint instead. The pens are ideal for adding small details and finishing touches to your paintings. ups.
br>br>These metallic markers are much more useful for coloring in the edges of blades, weapons, and small details. br>br>Many beginners with dreams of customizations buy tons of packs of Gundam markers only to discover they aren't very practical for one reason or another, and then they just sit and gather dust. The chrome silver has been extremely helpful in bringing out details that would otherwise be hidden by chrome foil decals.
So this set's metallic silver is a LOT shinier than the regular silver. That's what I'm thinking of with that one. Something along the lines of GM04. That one, on the other hand, is a muted dark grey with a gleam to it. If you ask me, this is METALLIC SILVER. The gold is a little more muted and cold than the other (GM05 or whatever), and the other colors are left to their own devices. They're just like any other gundam marker when it comes to application. If your current silver is letting you down, invest $10 in this. They're designated as GM151-. I believe it was 155, with the exception of the fine tip black marker.
The paintwork of GSI Creos never ceases to amaze, and this set is no exception. Because almost every model is molded in the same colors, this set comes in handy for highlighting gold and/or silver areas, as well as adding a metalllic sheen to solid areas. Of course, it goes without saying that you will require a topcoat. Without one, it will simply wipe away. Oh, and this set's panel lining marker is terrible. You should use the fine tip instead of the brush tip, which costs around $5 depending on where you buy it. Otherwise, your lines will be a little too light.
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