Pfister 9742920 Replacement Part 3 x 1 x 1"
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Today, I spoke with a representative from Price Pfister, who confirmed that these two are identical. He claimed that the S model is available at some retailers and that it is not a Pfister product, but I couldn't find any evidence to support the S model's double price.
This is for a working valve that "pulls and turns."
It was a genuine OEM Pfister cartridge, not an aftermarket one, that I received.
I've done this before, and I think I simply rotated the cartridge 180 degrees to fix it.
Selected User Reviews For Pfister 9742920 Replacement Part 3 x 1 x 1"
You've probably arrived here not because your shower is leaking, but because you can't get the handle out without Herculean strength. These valves become clogged and unable to move freely due to hard water deposits. This is the valve you want to replace, not the $10 knockoffs. The internal slide on the clones is made of plastic, whereas the original is made of metal. Tip for installation: Remove the surrounding metal tube and locking nut before removing the valve, then reinstall it. TO EASILY PULL THE VALVE, ATTACH THE HANDLE OR SCREW. It'll take a few tugs to remove the old valve - Don't be afraid; you can do it. The new valve will come with a pre-installed occlusion device. Stick it in there because it's greased. Apply plumber's grease to all threaded items; Someone will be grateful to you in 20 years. Give yourself a pat on the back for completing the task.
We gave it our all. In our 25-year-old house, we replaced the cartridges in three different tub/showers. Our faucets are all working fantastically now that we've fixed some minor leaks. Just a quick tip: if you're trying to remove an old cartridge (and I mean OLD) that appears to be cemented in place due to calcification, pry behind the small black tab at the top with a smaller flat head screw driver. Ours had obviously never been altered by previous owners, and they were in excellent condition. We tried everything from vinegar for hours (even days), to tugging in all directions with a handful of tools, but the screw driver wedging out that top tab worked like a charm and didn't feel like it was causing any damage to the plumbing like the tugging could.
To lubricate the o rings, purchase food-grade silicone. Using 400 grit and 600 grit wet/dry sand paper, sand the inner shower valve mixing area where this fits in. The seals on these are being eaten by calcium buildup and the PH of the water. Sharp edges and calcium crude eat away at the seals in the ports where water enters on either side of the valve mixing area. After sanding, apply silicone with a finger to the inside of the valve mixing area and the o rings on the part, then install the part, making sure to include the retainer clip. Install the escutcheon plate after you've tested it. You've completed the task!.
2920 To make sure this was the right replacement cartridge, I called Price Pfister. I got some plumber's grease here and used it to grease the o rings before installing them. Because my cartridge had been in for 28 years, I sprayed penetrating oil on the locking collar, cleaned it with a wire brush a few hours later, and dug out around that little tab with a flat head screwdriver, as suggested by someone else here (thanks). To remove the collar, simply turn it. Pull out the old cartridge with the round handle, insert the new cartridge, and reassemble everything. For a first-timer, it's a 15-minute job.
I like how simple it is to turn on and off. The old one was difficult, and there is still a drip every 10 seconds or so. Apply the food-grade silicone o ring lube to the o ring and all other parts' threads. My previous one, which came with the house, was at least ten years old. br>Didn't care for the Made in China label when it clearly stated that it was made in Mexico. There is metal inside. Photo 2 shows the top pack open and closed but not glued. 974th Part- The number 2920 isn't on the cartridge; it's the same as the previous number, 19202. In any case, the drip was slowed. The S74- is available from HD for purchase. The 2920, which isn't listed on the Pfister website, is also available on Amazon, but is it any different? br>Would have preferred a sealed package, a return, or anything else that might have been inside. br>br>Update: It did, in fact, stop dripping.
Around 30 years ago, I installed three of the shower systems that use this control. There were some cement-like particles in one of the showers. Like material trapped in the pipes (bad plumber, not the shower parts' fault) that kept getting into the valves and causing the controll to break down over time. It had recently become extremely stiff, most likely as a result of the grease I had used in rebuilding it over the years, so I finally located this part on Amazon and replaced the original valve. It's fantastic! It was a pain to get the old value out, but this new one slid right in, fit perfectly, and had no leaks. The best part is that the procedure is completely painless. Both the on/off and the hot/cold movements are smooth and have little resistance. The new one isn't as stiff as the old one. br>br>My other two showers with this part are still working fine, but one of them is noticeably stiffer than the one I just repaired, so I've ordered another one. When the shower heads are replaced, it's as if the showers are brand new.
The cartridge is well-fitting and secure, and it prevents leaks. The most difficult part is getting rid of the old cartridge. After 30 years, mine had become stuck. when the water has been turned off Remove the crystal knob, pull off the chrome trim, and use a large crescent wrench to unscrew the knurled keeper threaded sleeve, revealing the cartridge. br>Now comes the exciting part. Insert the screw into the cartridge, then clamp the stem with a vise grip. I was able to get the cartridge out by pushing the stem in and then pulling it out hard three times. br>To install the new cartridge, simply use slicone lube to lubricate the o rings. Last but not least, tighten the threaded sleeve and check for leaks. br>As good as new!.
Although the valve was not leaking, it had become extremely difficult to turn on or off the water. Another shower valve on the second floor (different from the first) became stiff recently. I ordered a less expensive (non OEM) valve from ebuy, but was disappointed to discover that the valve stem is entirely plastic (rather than metal, as with OEM). I was wary of a low-cost product, so I dismantled the old valve (it was only two pieces-- After soaking the sliding stem and main "sleeve" in CLR to remove hard water deposits, new plumbers grease and the valve stem were applied. Re- valve is now as good as new after installation.
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