Fulton Precision Miter Gauge with a Standard Slot (3/4” x 3/8”) Steel Bar with Adjustable Spring Loaded Plungers and Removable Retaining Disc

If you're wondering how this Fulton miter gauge differs from the Big Horn model 14600, here's what you need to know. Although they are identical, I believe Fulton had the original design (perhaps that is why it is $5 less?). Also, the Fulton's head has a nicer, smoother surface treatment, so that's something to consider. br>br>Speaking of the bottom surface, you'll need to wax it well or it'll leave marks on the saw's table, especially if it's aluminum (cast iron, steel, or coated tables are less of a concern). Like Incra, I wish it had a plastic strip underneath it. or, even better, a replaceable strip that is thrown away - That's pretty much the only thing I can think of to make it better. Of course, if you're anything like me, you'll attach a piece of Delrin to the bottom to ensure that no tool in the workshop is left in its original state. br>br>I'd also prefer a cast and ground head over a stamped one. That wouldn't add much to the cost (the surfaces are already machined), in my opinion. br>br>Last but not least, there's the ball-player. The point set screws that adjust how tight it fits in the slot should be thread locked; otherwise, they will loosen too easily. Even so, compared to Incra's nylon discs, I believe this is a better design. The reason for this is that most saw tracks aren't perfectly straight, and the spring-loaded blades aren't as strong as they could be. ball that has been loaded- The imperfections will be nicely accommodated by the points. Nylon discs, it could be argued, would provide a more snug fit - because the spring can be swayed When mitering with vigor, use loaded screws - However, this will come at the cost of a more fluid motion. You can also replace the ball if necessary. You can choose whether you prefer point set screws or nylon ones (which you can make yourself by chopping M6 nylon screws). br>br>Now, if Fulton put a replaceable plastic strip under the head and a bunch of nylon set screws in there, they'd have a perfect all-around miter gauge for any occasion!.

Valerie Rush

| Oct 06, 2021

Very basic, but with a lot of useful value-added features. Over the years, I've used a variety of miter gauges as well as worn-out table saws. As a result, I'd always imagined a perfect, well-thought-out gauge that was both precise and easy to use. Every mark is hit by this gauge. The scale is simple to read. Positive stops are dead on accurate for common cuts. The use of roller bearings to compensate for track deviation is a brilliant idea that I had never considered. That adjustable bearing feature comes in handy, especially in "on-site" construction table saws where the miter gauge slides aren't always as perfect as they are on a stationary belt drive saw like the Delta Uni Saw. If you have a construction site table saw and want to use a real miter gauge, this is the gauge for you. Before ordering, make sure to measure the slide track on your saw. As a backup, I have a Delta and a Ryobi table saw. Even with the T track roller, the gauge does not work in Ryobi. If your saw's slide is 3/4" wide, however, this gauge will work perfectly. The only change I would make to the gauge is to add a small, T-type adjustment knob to the positive stop actuator. However, the actuator works, and it is the most accurate gauge I've ever seen. In terms of design, there are no frills, but there are plenty of frills for function.

Santana Norton

| Jun 10, 2021

The head of the Phillips screw that held the retaining disc in place was stripped out on the first attempt to loosen it due to its tightness and the screw's weak material. Because I can't remove the retaining disc because my miter slot doesn't accommodate one, this tool is no longer useful to me and will be returned to Amazon. br>br>UPDATE: br>br> I quickly returned the original item and received a replacement. Another reviewer stated that the retaining disc was so tight that he had to drill it out. I didn't want to take any chances, so I used WD-40 on the screw right out of the box. 40, and then put it all in the freezer for half an hour (on the theory that metal contracts when it gets cold). I'm not sure if the previous one was defective or if my idea worked, but it was relatively simple to make. Given that others have experienced a similar issue, here is a suggestion for the manufacturer. Stick your head out the window and tell the machine guys to reduce the torque on the screw by a couple of pounds. Easy fix. Please accept my heartfelt gratitude.

Niklaus Turner

| Jun 20, 2021