Freud 6" x 10T Pro Dado Set (SD206)
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A number of factors are involved. The first consideration is the motor's power. For 1. A 6" dado blade is recommended for motors with less than 5 HP. If you have more than 2 HP, the 8 is the way to go. The depth to which you wish to cut is also a consideration. If you're not going any further than number one, Only a 6" is required for a 25" project. Third, most 6" models are lighter, which means they put less strain on your engine.
Remove the black knobs from the dado's center.
According to the blade's description - 11,000 revolutions per minute.
My response needs to be revised. Only about an inch and a quarter (1-inch) will be raised by the blade. On my Powermatic 10-inch, 1/4 inch) above the table. Because I'm using a 12-inch table saw, the maximum depth will be around 1-inch. 3/8 inch, not 1/4 inch 11/16.
Selected User Reviews For Freud 6" x 10T Pro Dado Set (SD206)
Although I am a hobbyist, I have received a woodworking scholarship. A router is one of the most versatile tools in any shop, especially if you have a table, and mine gets a lot of use. My router table was where I did all of my dado's, rabbets, and other work. While I mentioned that it is the most versatile, it also means that you must be on your game when it comes to router usage, which, depending on what you want to do, may require you to enter the dangerous climb cut territory in order to reduce tear out. I recently completed bathroom cabinetry and am currently working on barn doors. I started looking into it again because I'm working with 8/4 knotty alder and will be renovating my kitchen cabinets. My deal is that I buy the best because I want things to last, and that includes my tools, bits, and blades, but I didn't want to spend $300 on a dado set, so I didn't have one. So, being Freud, I decided to give it a try and then return it if I didn't like what I saw. br>br>Well, it's impressive. 6" scared me at first, but after thinking about it, I've never needed a dado or groove deeper than an inch, and these blades give me more, so. In theory, having a 6" saw gives you a little more power, but I have a nice Jet Cabinet saw, so that's not an issue for me. It's a joy to use the set because it cuts like butter and produces no vibration or noise while producing a razor-sharp cut. It produces a perfectly flat cut, which fulfills my top cut quality requirement. It also comes with a lot of spacers, even with the thickness stamped on it, which is extremely convenient. The case is also crucial because it protects your investment and ensures that no parts are lost. If there is a complaint, I would prefer it to be keyed so that carbide does not rub against carbide. As long as you pay attention when tightening the arbor, you should be fine; it only takes a few seconds to double-check everything before tightening. br>br>The template, like another reviewer's, is incorrect. But, in reality, we all use only a few different patterns, so grab the calipers, figure it out, and forget about it. vs, vs, vs. , vs. , vs. , vs. , vs. , v mdf, vs. Because each piece of melamine is unique, make a template for each one. There's no avoiding it, and if you work with wood in any capacity, you'll do it with everything. Setting up your tooling to be square and accurate is the most important step in any case, and if you skip it, you'll be fighting it all the time, and your project will suffer as a result. So, it's something you should have accepted a long time ago, and if there are two pieces of advice I give to anyone who asks how I do it, it's patience and proper tool setup. You don't need the best tools, but they must be perfectly set up. That was a no-cost service, LOL.
I have a Rigid R4518 budget compact saw that I took the time to set up so that it cuts squarely. I'm confident that I can do a good job on it if I take my time. br>br>Because my saw can only handle 6" stacks, I purchased the SD206. I read reviews all over the internet, and while the Freud set wasn't the best, I had been using an 8" stack for years and was happy with it. This set appeared to be a good value for the money. br>br>The 'unboxing' experience was less than satisfactory. The'screws' that hold the blades in the plastic case were tightened to a torque of about 1MM ft lbs. To get it unscrewed, I had to turn the pliers on them. Not a fan of the front-to-back orientation, which requires stowing everything on different sides and unscrewing two knobs to access the blades. br>br>However, these are minor irritations. I can't give this product a five-star rating because it isn't accurate, at least not the set that came with my saw. Both the printed material on the SD206's case and the Feud website's PDF download chart state that for a 3/4" dado cut, you should use the right half, left half, three chippers, and 3 1/16" spacers (which are not the same as the shims). DO NOT DO THIS ON PROJECT PIECES! br>br> I strongly advise you to test cut scrap before relying on the box's configuration settings. I was fortunate in that I was able to put my luck to the test. I was making a zero clearance insert out of some expensive Baltic Birch that had been plastic laminated. I would have completely ruined the piece if I had attempted to do so. The suggested setup was 1/16" off. (See photos)br>br>I took out one of the 1/16" spacers and the cut width was almost perfect (the issue could be the saw's blade wobble). )br>br>In addition, it appears that their configuration instructions could be a lot better. Here's what I'd do to make them better: 1) Double-check that all of the configurations are correct; I don't believe they are. br>2) On the blades themselves, clearly label the Right and Left blades. Do not bury the confirmation of a seasoned woodworker's guess in a small illustrated figure in the manual that refers to some of the blade's teeth and their cut angle. br>3) Specify the order in which the blades, spacers, and shims should be stacked for each configuration. br>br>My review may appear to be harsh, but it is not. I really like the product, and it produces the best dado cuts of any stack I've ever used. I simply believe it could be better, and I'm trying to do my part to assist rather than simply complaining without offering any solutions. br>br>To Freud, thank you for a fantastic product; I buy a lot of your products. Dado blades, router bits, precision table saw blades, and forstner bits are some of the tools available. All of them are appealing to me. Continue to do a fantastic job. In the future, I hope to see a better stack.
With a Freud blade, I believe you can't go wrong. On my Ridgid R4512 table saw, I use this. The chart they include that tells you which blades/spacers/chippers to use to get a certain width was not accurate. br>br>My main complaint is that the chart they include that tells you which blades/spacers/chippers to use to get a certain width was not accurate. br>br>My chief complaint is that the chart they include that tells you which blades/spacers/chippers to use to get a certain width was I made test cuts according to their chart and used my calipers to measure the width, but it was not accurate. So, take a scrap piece of wood and experiment with various blades, spacers, and chippers until you achieve the desired width. Then, right next to the cut, make a note of the configuration. Setting up your own chart is a lot of extra work, but it's necessary if you want accurate cuts, which is almost inexcusable given the price of these blades and Freud's reputation. They should be able to fix this as soon as possible.
So far, my Ridgid 4513 has performed admirably, cutting cleanly and squarely. The throat plate is not included, but Ridgid sells them separately on Amazon.
This package includes two main blades (one for each side of the stack) and three stack blades that go in the middle of the main two, as well as some spacer shims for making even bigger stacks. All of this is packaged in a very smart box that safely stores your very nice Italian blade! a fantastic product!!.
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