Freud 3/8" (Dia.) Double Flute Straight Bit with 1/2" Shank (12-110) , Red
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Let's just say that running this bit on a 1/4" shaft would be a bad idea. This is merely a mishap waiting to happen to someone. If your router's manufacturer only offered a 1/4" collet, it's possible they're trying to communicate something. If you've just misplaced your 1/2" collet and are on a tight budget, don't bother. It's not even close to being worth it. Invest in a larger router or collet for this cutter, or purchase a smaller cutter to fit your needs.
For standard 3/4" plywood, which is actually 23/32", the undersized bit works much better for a tight fit. For standard 3/4" plywood, which is actually 23/32", this bit creates a sloppy fit.
You can use it in the drill press without a problem if it fits into your chuck. You'll need a half-inch chuck on your drill press because the shank is 1/2 inch.
Cutters with a diameter of 1" to 1 and 1/4" should be turned at a maximum of 18,000 rpm, according to Freud. This was on their website as well as the box in which the bit was packaged.
Selected User Reviews For Freud 3/8" (Dia.) Double Flute Straight Bit with 1/2" Shank (12-110) , Red
I almost always use this to make slots in small shelves. Something adjustable, perhaps, or a fastener or a lectern book sliding stopper. I could use the 1/4" straight bit that came in a set of different bits for about the same price as this one bit. So, what makes you think I'd buy something like this? It, on the other hand, cuts with far greater precision. The slot is almost perfect by eye, and the 1/2" shank transfers more power for any brand, but it's still a feature. The cutter keeps going straight, and it doesn't care if it hits a branch in hardwood or an odd spot in something; it simply vanishes. This is where the terms "free" and "multi-platform" come into play. One of the "packs" fails. Something is slightly off, and it wobbles, or the board moves a little, or the slot height is uneven, or even some small bits fly out, all of which make the slot look bad. So, in order to save money, I may occasionally use cheap bits with no visible holes or do some haphazard chopping. However, a specialty "premium" bit is required for finishing items that will be seen by the end user. For me, it's usually Sigmund Freud bits because they consistently give me good results. Again, this isn't to say that your entire set has to be like this- They aren't cheap, to put it that way. Even if you're a hobbyist who can't afford it, the ones you like and use the most should be Freud.
So far, everything has gone well. With a plunge router, bushing guide set, and this bit, as well as a template made out of birch ply, I used to make a prototype mortise and tenon. The deep end grain cut was easy and accurate with this bit, which is 1 1/2" long. I'm hoping it lasts at least another 25 joints before I decide whether it's worth the money. If it doesn't, I'll make a change to the post.
Offshore plywood is 46" thick. As expected, the blades are razor sharp. Freud tool of excellent quality. I've seen reviews on this site from people who have used it for purposes other than what it was designed for- This 15/32" bit is used to cut perfectly sized dados for 12mm offshore plywood and is used for mortising, edge trimming, and other tasks. br>br> I get "1/2 inch birch plywood, finished one side" from the lumber supply for a good price, but it is not 1/2", but 0. 12mm, or 46" When routing dados for cabinet making or other purposes with a standard 1/2" bit, the result is a dado that is far too large, loose, and sloppy. You can also get a bit designed specifically for undersized offshore plywood, but it's 31/64ths, which is close but still leaves a groove that's a little too wide (1/64th) if you're doing precision work. With the extra room, the 31/64" groove will fit together easily, but it does not look good. This is the one you want if you're using 12mm plywood and know how to route a perfectly straight dado. For a particularly difficult joint, I'll sand the edges of the panel going into the dado slightly and it slides right in; for a particularly difficult joint, I'll sand the edges of the panel going into the dado slightly and it slides right in; for a particularly difficult joint, I'll use a clamp to pop the joint together with no slop or shadow line; and for a particularly difficult joint, I'll sand the edges of the panel going into the dado slightly.
Over the course of two days, I plunged 104 times with this bit to make 52 mortises. I'd say it withstood the test of time. However, because the router's bit does not clear the hole like an up-and-down drill bit, it was difficult to plunge. It would be a spiral bit. br>br>The bit has the advertised diameter and is sharp right out of the box. When unboxing, be cautious because the plastic lid was firmly fastened. And the base of the bit was tight.
I'm making a white oak nightstand as a wedding present for my niece, and I needed to make 22" long mortises in the legs so that I could slide a panel in. I couldn't use the dado blades on the table saw because they stopped 4" from the bottom of the legs. So I bought this bit and put it in our overhead router, and it cut mortises beautifully. This is my third Freud router bit, and I'm pleased with how well it performs.
I built a cherry table and used it to carve mortises and groves for six planks. To locate the planks, I made 1/2-inch deep groves for splines. Cutting would cover a total distance of about 55 feet. The bit was still sharp, and it cut 10 1 3/4-inch-deep mortises on the table's ends. br>I believe the people who broke the bits were attempting to cut the entire depth in one pass and at an excessive speed. I made three passes to cut the entire 1 3/4 inch mortise, which is pretty standard. br>I checked the floating tenons that fit the mortises with digital calipers and found that they measured. 373 inches in length. 3/8" equals 375.
I am a big fan of Sigmund Freud. blades. This bit spins true, as expected. slashes with precision There is no discernible deflection throughout the entire piece. It's a similarly clean cut. It's as straight at the bit's tip as it is at the cutters' base. I've been using it primarily for router table jointing. As long as the work piece is thick/wide enough to stay straight while being pushed across the table, this method works well. I attempted to join a few thin pieces, but they bent into the blade at the ends, resulting in convex sides (fat in the middle). at the ends are thin). I'm guessing that attaching them to a larger board/jig before jointing will solve the problem, but I haven't tried it yet.
Purchased to cut dadoes for drawer bottoms made of undersized plywood. br>Does an excellent job. The dado has very crisp edges and the cut has a flat bottom. br>It appears that the trick is to make several small passes with the router table - Otherwise, the wood chips can clog up the dado, causing the bit to go off track if you aren't careful. Please don't ask me how I know this (thankfully, it's from a practice cut!). )br>Just make sure you don't drop it or bang it against anything metal - Because it's small and solid carbide, it won't withstand such impacts. Keep it in a safe place for when you need it again!.
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