YOGEON Hand planer, Block Hand Plane Planer Perfect for Woodworking, Trimming, Wood Planing, Surface Smoothing (4‘’, Red)
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There isn't a unique blade available for purchase. The link, on the other hand, was just purchased. If you require it immediately, you may purchase the entire wood planer first.br>Thank you!
- Support Team for YOGEON
Yes, the wood must be repaired. - - - - - - - - - - - - - Support staff at YOGEON
It's a nice wood with a tight grain and a nice hardness. It's not as hard as ebony or rosewood, but it's easy to flatten, planes glassy smooth against the wood, and hasn't left any noticeable marks on the sole in the time I've had it.br>br>It also has a thick brass insert in the mouth that keeps it from chipping - For a wood body plane, this is an extremely high-end feature. br>br>Mine, too, came out of the factory dead nuts flat. Everything except the wedge (which only needed some sanding to feel as good) had excellent fit and finish, comparable to a plane costing well over a hundred dollars.
Thank you for deciding to use YOGEON software. br>By hammering the tail of the wood planer, the blade can be easily removed for adjustment. You may also watch the rosewood 7" A listing video.
- Support Team for YOGEON
Selected User Reviews For YOGEON Hand planer, Block Hand Plane Planer Perfect for Woodworking, Trimming, Wood Planing, Surface Smoothing (4‘’, Red)
I'm blown away! This plane piqued my interest. I enjoy Japanese-style tools and was in the market for a replacement for my four-size plane. Wooden planes are one of my favorites, and adjusting them is simple (with some practice for beginners). I decided to take a chance because the price was reasonable. To get this plane up and running, I expected a lot of tuning. *The Real World - There are no planes in the box that are ready to fly. I groan when I read the review that says "It wasn't sharp. " Of course, it isn't razor-sharp right out of the box; that is your job. * So when I got it, I was fully prepared to fatten, shape, sharpen, and hon it for a full day's work. I was taken aback by the results of the examination. The wood is sturdy, the finish is lovely, the parts are well-fitting, and the iron is ridiculously thick. The bottom was the first thing I flattened. Because it was mostly flat and it was, flattening was quick. wood. I realized that my new set of sharpening stones hadn't arrived yet, so I had to wait to work on the iron after waxing and polishing the sole. I set it up for planing out of sheer curiosity, cleaned and adjusted the iron, and decided to test it out for a laugh. I was expecting this thing to rip some wood to shreds. However, this was not the case. It's buttery smooth. The shavings floated out in beautiful ribbons. WTF! This is far superior to the Stanley I'm replacing, and I haven't even tuned it. This plane has quickly become one of my favorites. I'm ashamed to admit that I haven't done any sharpening or honing on it yet. I use it on a daily basis and find it to be very useful. I've never had a plane that needed very little tuning right out of the box. I'm still puzzled by this one, but I'm very pleased with it. It's great at cutting cross grain. I highly recommend it.
This isn't just "good for the money," but it's truly excellent. br>br>On the initial fit/finish, you get what you pay for, and like any plane under $600, it will require some setup out of the box. br>br>The fact that my sole is completely flat blew my mind. Out of the box thinking. NOTHING OUT OF THE BOX COMES THAT FLAT. I put it on a 120 grit surface plate just to make sure I wasn't crazy, and it came out perfectly flat. I wouldn't expect all of them to come flat, but since it's a wooden plane, a $2 granite floor tile from the hardware store, some spray glue, and a sheet of 80, 120, and 220 grit (400 grit if you're feeling fancy) will suffice. You want the plane's front and back edges, as well as both sides of the mouth, to be flat. It doesn't matter what's in the middle. If yours does need flattening, make sure you do it with the iron and wedge retracted in the plane, because wood body planes have a tendency to twist a smidge once the iron and wedge are inserted, so you want it under the tension it'll be used at while flattening. br>br>The handle can be removed or left in; simply tap it in or out with a hammer to change the plane from a nice push to a nice pull plane. This is referred to as a "hong kong" style Chinese plane, and it performs admirably. br>br>The body is made of a nice hardwood that isn't as hard as rosewood or ebony but appears to be very solid. They even added a thick brass insert to the mouth, which adds a touch of class. Although the mouth is fixed (as is the case with all wood body planes), the shape and size are ideal for use as a jack plane. Think of it as an Asian vibe, Stanley 4. The only rough parts on mine were the wedge, which just needed sanding smooth, and the iron/chip breaker, which was ground crazy rough. br>br>You lose some of the ease of adjustment of the bailey style iron plane, but you gain control and precision, and this thing is LIGHT (which is a good thing for the kind of work this plane does)br>br> To get the 40, 80, 120, 220, 320, 800, 1500, and then green jeweler's compounded leather stropping just right, it took a long time. The back of the blade was fairly flat, but it appeared to have been ground with a broken tuna can, which had been deeply gouged, requiring a significant amount of metal removal to properly flatten the back. It seems to have a fantastic edge now that I've done it (it took about 25 minutes). br>br>The chip breaker was a lot easier to make, and it only took five minutes to get a knife edge on it. br>br>Adjusting is simple; all you need is a soft hammer to retract the blade, a soft hammer to pull the blade back, a soft hammer to advance the iron, and a soft hammer to shift the iron side to side. It may seem intimidating at first, but after an hour of playing with this thing, you'll be a pro. br>br>Once you've got it set up, it's incredible how good and versatile it is, as well as how comfortable it is. Because of its light weight, it can be used all day (and, for some reason, no plane under $400 can be used without completing ALL of these steps; for some reason, no manufacturer makes a "ready to use" hand plane). Because it's a wood body, there's very little setup required. It's a pain to sand a cast iron plane flat. )br>br>As long as your expectations are reasonable and you don't expect to be able to get this thing out of the box and cutting wood in five minutes, this could be the most outrageous woodworking deal available.
My purchase has left me completely satisfied. br>br>So, I'm a fairly new woodworker - My builds have been a little shabby, but I'm trying to improve by watching woodworking videos. This is the first plane I've ever built that actually works - I had inherited one but lacked the necessary skills to get it up and running. Rex Krueger's videos have been very helpful in educating me about this plane, how it works, and how to adjust it. I'm not even close to being as adaptable as he is - However, here's the bottom line: I was making nice wood shavings within 5 minutes of starting to set up the plane - The material is thin enough to see through. Because that's what I have on hand, I used really dried out pine and cedar. br>br>Of course, the second time I took the plane apart and put it back together, it took me about 7 minutes to get it set up - However, for someone who is brand new to planes, this is a very reasonable amount of time. In any case, it's a good investment - Rex's videos are also worth watching.
It was moving far too quickly, but I fooled myself into believing that it had arrived in good condition. br>br>The disappointment started after reassembling everything and running it in on soft wood. The blade has now rolled throughly after being in the shop for a while and only being used a few times. br>br>It seemed to make decent shavings about four times before the edge began to fail. br>br>It's all a waste of money and time. Don't waste your money on this one.
It was razor sharp right out of the box; all I had to do was fiddle around with it to get it set up. This is a very well-made and sturdy device. The tiniest pig is merely a pleasant surprise. I spent some time filing and sanding any exposed edges of the iron to make them smooth and comfortable in case they came into contact with anything while working. I haven't touched the sole, and I haven't sharpened the iron. I just spent some time learning how to adjust the iron by tapping it, and once I got it dialed in, this thing is incredible. I don't bother with the long thin handle that they include because it's not necessary for smoothing boards or chamfering. I was initially intimidated, but learning how to use this tool turned out to be a lot of fun.