STANLEY Hand Planer, Contractor Grade, 6-1/4-Inch (12-920)
Score By Feature
OveReview Final Score
Product Description
Questions & Answers
It's far too short; it works well for finishing the outside edges of various projects, but you'll need a longer plane for joinery. Robert
It's a good block plane for smoothing out small areas and working with butcher blocks' end grain. I usually use it in conjunction with a toothed iron (Ray Iles) to smooth out skips. For smaller areas where I don't need a perfectly flat surface, just a smooth one, I use planed lumber. The lower angle aids in the finishing process, and holding it at a 45 degree skew works well for those smaller areas where a larger plane isn't needed. Depending on the type of wood you're working with, end grain may be acceptable. Maintain its sharpness, and it should suffice for small projects or small areas of larger projects. The iron that comes with it is adequate for casual use, but if you require more than quick surfacing, something from IBC or LV would be preferable. In the finish role, I prefer this to the higher angle block plane, but I do use higher angle ones in the interior. between rough sanding and final polishing A small amount of wax on the sole will go a long way toward reducing friction. As I'm a member of the better living through chemistry crowd, I haven't used it for paint stripping or removing stains from old work, so I can't comment on that use.
Yes. However, chamfering can also be done with a well-set smoothing plane, with the same result. The advantage of the block plane is that it can be used with one hand, and the iron angle isn't as important.
The STANLEY 12-pack is a great way to save money on your next purchase The 220 has a front-facing finger rest rather than side-facing finger rests. The STANLEY 12-pack is a great way to save money on your next purchase The quick-release cam is also absent from the 220. lock. STANLEY can be reached at 1-(800)-STANLEY. 888- 848- For more information, please call (517) 517-5175.
Selected User Reviews For STANLEY Hand Planer, Contractor Grade, 6-1/4-Inch (12-920)
It is necessary to put in some effort. As others have pointed out, getting this plane flat will take a significant amount of effort. I decided that getting it flat would be a "fun" project, so I started working on it right away. It's possible that the plane would have performed admirably even if no work had been done, but I didn't conduct any meaningful tests. Even though it didn't affect its performance, it did wobble slightly when I laid it down on my jointer table (blade removed, of course). br>br>The high/low spots did not appear to be in any particular order; They were strewn about the sole, which I'm not sure why, but it's fine. I'm not a machinist, but it appears that the differences are about. When aligned with a machinist square, it measures 010" from front/back/left/right. On the inside, I began by using 60 grit paper. My jointer receives feed from the table. Static electricity seemed to adhere the paper to the table after a few passes (especially with higher grit). After comparing it to the square, I admit I was having trouble determining whether I was making any progress. br>br>When I switched to 120 grit, I noticed a difference. I'm not sure if I should have started with 60 (or if I was doing more harm than good), but the 120 seemed to remove the material fairly well. After about an hour and a quarter, and 4- I had 5 sheets of 120 that were fairly flat, but I was running out of "fun" factor. When I changed to 220, I noticed a quarter-size low spot on the back heel and a pea-size low spot on the front toe.
I went back to the 120 and realized that I want to now removing material from 98% sole and decided% I went back to 220, then 440, then 800, and now I have a plane that is almost mirror like, with the exception of two small cloudy sections of the sole (the remaining low spots). br>br>Was it worth it? I'm not sure how it would work in the hands of a beginner woodworker. It cuts beautifully, and I'm confident that it's perfectly flat (there's no way). 001" would have made a difference in my shop), so I'm happy. I believe I can replicate anything I (as an amateur) could do with a $150 plane for $40 and some sweat equity.
Expect to spend some time flattening the sole with progressively finer grits of sandpaper (I usually start at 60 and work my way down to about 600 for the sole) as with any plane. It wouldn't hurt to do the same for the sides and make sure everything is square, especially if you plan on using this on a shooting board. I didn't do the sides (yet), but it only took me a couple of hours to take this plane from out-of-the-box to in-the-box. dialed-in box It's all set up and ready to go. br>br>In addition, I had to flatten and hone the blade. I used the frightfully sharp technique. br>br>Adjustments are simple, and once I've gotten everything dialed in, this is my favorite plane. Even fairly dense, hard woods with somewhat figured grain (I had success with some rather twisty Osage Orange) can be cut into paper thin slices, but straight grained, softer woods are no match. In my admittedly large hands, it fits comfortably. The width of the opening can be adjusted with the mouth. This plane comes highly recommended, especially for those on a budget. Don't believe the hype that you need to invest in high-end planes to get great cuts and a beautiful finish. This person is capable of completing the task. If you're not getting the results you want, it's most likely due to a lack of practice.
Poor machining and fitment have resulted in this disaster. The sole is severely concave, the throat has flashing (bad casting) that interferes with the iron on the left side, the frog support post is much higher on the left than on the right, causing the frog to sit crookedly, and the iron itself is not only dull but also concave. Sure, with a lot of time and effort, these issues can be resolved, but it's simply not worth it. If I could go back in time, I would do exactly what I am doing now. Purchase a more capable device. Consider the following dilemma: Is this something you're willing to spend hours on getting fixed up properly?.
I was excited to give this little guy a test drive after hours of flattening and sharpening the blade, but I was disappointed when I couldn't get straight shavings. Even with the adjuster all the way to the side, shavings were still coming out of one corner (trust me, I double-checked that I was moving the adjuster in the right direction). I suppose the solution would be to really go to town on the blade and sharpen the one side back a bit, but that would take hours more time, and honestly, I don't have the skills to take one edge back and end up with a blade that is still straight all the way across.
It's funny how you can go your entire life without having something and then wonder how you ever got along without it when you finally do! With a block plane, it's the same way. I'm a power tool snob, so I rarely use hand tools when working on a project, but I came across a relevant YouTube video extolling the virtues of hand planes and noticed that the master woodworker's wall was covered in planes of various sizes and shapes. It made me wonder what I'd been missing out on all this time. I already had a 4 plane stashed away on my workbench, but this master craftsman persuaded me that a block plane was required. So this is what I got. br>When it arrived, I performed the standard "tune up," which included removing the packing coatings, adjusting the blade, and checking the shoe's flatness. Everything seemed to be fine. br>At the time, I was working on a project that required several half-hour meetings. lap joints with ends that protruded a little beyond the edge Put an end to the grain! Yikes! That isn't going to work out well in the machine. And I'd like to use a 1/4" round over bit with my router, but first I need to remove the end grain protrusion and bring it flush with the other surface. A plane to the rescue has been blocked! It was perfect after a few quick swipes with a very light cut, with no grain breakout. I'm in a good mood. Since I'll be using my planes a lot more now, I also bought a stone and a honing guide. The next step is to invest in a few diamond honing stones with finer grits and become dedicated to having razor-sharp tools.
Related Products For STANLEY Hand Planer, Contractor Grade, 6-1/4-Inch (12-920)
