22 Gauge 4Pin Extension Wrie, EvZ 22AWG 4 Conductor Parallel Electric Cable Cord for RGB LED Strips 3528 5050, Black-Green-Red-Blue, 33ft/10M
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Remove about 1/4 inch of insulation from the wires and they'll slide right under the tabs. Then close the lid with a snap.
I've seen and bought mechanical wire strippers from Homedepo, Lowes, and Ace Hardware that allow for one-step removal of wires. With a single squeeze, shoot a strip of wire in various lengths. It makes things a lot easier. Then twist each wire individually, connect them, and solder them together.
You CAN connect to a 12VDC car battery (or any other 12VDC power source), but you MUST put a fuse in line because it can easily start a large fire if not fused. Power supplies that plug in are fused internally, but batteries are not. In fact, alkaline batteries can be used with these. Despite the fact that alkaline batteries only produce 1 volt, they are extremely efficient. You can get 12VDC by connecting eight 5VDC batteries in series. Unless you don't care about your stereo, you should not connect these to the speaker output. Your stereo will eventually be harmed as a result of this.
This was listed as having a power output of 250 Watts in the specifications. This is impossible to be correct. If that were the case, a 12 AWG wire would be required, possibly less for 12 volt DC systems depending on the length of the run. br>br>These ribbon cables are typically 22 AWG to 18 AWG in diameter. I'm not sure what this is, but if you're hooking up any significant run of LED strips, I'd be cautious and not rely on it for long distances. (i. 2 SMD 5050 300LED/5M rolls would draw 6 amps each, for a total of 12 amps. 72 Watts per roll x 12 Volts = 6 Amps The amps per linear foot are 37 amps.
Selected User Reviews For 22 Gauge 4Pin Extension Wrie, EvZ 22AWG 4 Conductor Parallel Electric Cable Cord for RGB LED Strips 3528 5050, Black-Green-Red-Blue, 33ft/10M
I used it to extend the length of a cable for my under-cabinet lighting. The wires to the connector had to be soldered together. It's the first time I've done it, and everything appears to be in order; the lights are on. Although I only required 5 feet, this appears to be the most cost-effective solution.
The wire itself isn't bad (trust me, there are far worse here on Amazon), it does the job well, and it was my go-to choice until I discovered that the advertised gauge is incorrect, causing me to lose faith in the company and its products. Especially since the other product costs roughly the same.
This stuff is exactly what I needed: a pin 12v RGB strip. There were no continuity issues because the strands tease apart cleanly and the insulation strips easily.
Because it isn't designed for 120v, don't expect it to be as heavy as a lamp cord or standard extension cord. I used it to go from 4 to 4 in a short amount of time. Wire Waterproof Strip Lights 10mm Wide mounted inside and on top of window valances I bought 10" jumpers with connectors on both ends, but they were too short for my needs, so I cut them in half and soldered several inches of this in. You could solder this directly to the light strips, but I wanted the sections to be able to be "unplugged" in the future.
It came in one continuous piece on all four conductors, which was all I needed for my project, which had nothing to do with LED strips and instead involved a TDS meter for my RO membrane filter, which was too far away to work with stock 2 ft. wiring.
This wire is not CCA (clad copper aluminum), as previously stated in Q. A section of tinned copper, to be precise. See the attached photo for a close-up of the heavily scratched ends, which reveal the copper. I had no trouble soldering it.
These wires have the same color code as the stepper motors I was using, which made for a very neat build.
The only issue I have is that the insulation on one long section of wire, about 6 inches long, was frayed. I ordered a lot more than I needed, so it wasn't a big deal, but it was still an issue. Where is the quality control prior to packaging?.